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Thread: More fuel pump relay fun!

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Try swapping your main relay with the parts car.

    But both relays should click when the fuse is plugged in and out.

    See if there is power in the socket for the INJ fuse.

    There should be power to one of the terminals.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    Registered Member Catzilla's Avatar

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    Main relay is green, right?

    Both the green ones I have on hand go clicky when given 12v.

    There's 11.5 volts going to the INJ fuse.

  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Its looking like the power isn't getting through to the INJ fuse.
    Look for the fat black wire going into the fusebox and check for+12 V in the connector.
    Try to follow the fat black wire through the fusebox., checking for +12 V along the way.
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  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Fuel pump relay is #2, main relay is #4. (I don't know about color.)

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  5. #20
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Catzilla View Post
    Main relay is green, right?

    Both the green ones I have on hand go clicky when given 12v.

    There's 11.5 volts going to the INJ fuse.
    The power goes from the INJ fuse right to the main relay.

    Try to trace the connections between the two, looking for a bad connection.
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  6. #21
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Looking at your picture, the main relay is green.

    You should have +12 V on one of the terminals in the main relay all the time.
    It's sounds like power isn't getting from the INJ fuse to the relay.

    Try to clean up the contacts in and under the fusebox. The scorched ones are probably for the main and fuel relays.
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  7. #22
    Registered Member Catzilla's Avatar

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    So basically I have to pull the entire damn harness out of the car.

    It dawns on me that this fusebox isn't a power distribution box. Wires bring power in, the power either passes thru a fuse or waits to pass a relay, then leaves to goes to run something like a fuel pump. If it splits, those splits are buried in white plastic and not serviceable. This is even true for the 100 amp main, it comes direct from battery + and goes off into la-la-land in the harness that dives under battery.

    From your diagrams, pcb, there should be some indicator where in the harness power comes from, leading to the INJ fuse which is receiving less than 12v, and where it goes in the harness before returning to the fusebox to the fuel pump relay, at which point the juice leakage has reduced it to less than 1v. I have to find the bad spot(s) in the harness.

  8. #23
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I found this...





    Your fuse box is probably OK because it was working.

    Focus on the connectors underneath that are kinda scorched.
    Try to get continuity from the INJ fuse to the main relay.
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  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I just took this picture of my fuse block with the engine off and key removed...



    Do you get B+ (11.5 V in your case) between battery negative and the right side terminal in the connector for the INJ fuse ??
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  10. #25
    Registered Member Catzilla's Avatar

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    No continuity between INJ fuse and green main relay. With ignition on, no power to signal side of green main relay.

    Fault lies in harness or connectors between INJ fuse and green main relay. Really not looking forward to trying to repair this.

    The scorched-looking connectors on the fuse box bottom have no melting, just browned grease, and their metal spare-grabbers look good.

    I'm may give up and part the car out over this. I just paid hundreds of dollars for a bonded title and registration, $170 for a new starter, $300 for brand new rear calipers and brackets, $125 for brand new pads and rotors, $400 for new A/C compressor from the rusted out car, and hundreds of hours of my time on stupid crap like mysteriously walking P/S belt and burned out HVAC fan connector, plus swapping catalytic converter and bumper and tailights and door panels from parts car. I'm so mad I could spit. This was supposed to be a reliable daily but it's a piece of crap.

  11. #26
    Registered Member Catzilla's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I just took this picture of my fuse block with the engine off and key removed...



    Do you get B+ (11.5 V in your case) between battery negative and the right side terminal in the connector for the INJ fuse ??
    Yes

  12. #27
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Well...
    All I can think of that is cheap and easy is to spray down both sides of the connectors with electrical contact cleaner while plugging them in and out a few times to help scrape a better contact.

    Dielectric grease doesn't conduct electricity and the terminals could have a film on them.
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  13. #28
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Just for clarification sake, try a different 30 amp square fuse in the INJ fuse connector.
    They're kind of a weird fuse and might not look blown if is.
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  14. #29
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I found some specific info of what wires to test in the harness...







    Check for B+ on the "I" terminal W/G wire (white with a green stripe.) of the FB 03 connector (emission harness) that is plugged into the fuse box underneath.

    With the plug connected probe into the connector from the back and check for B+.

    I'm thinking the ECU won't call for power to the main relay control circuit unless there is power to the main relay.
    Last edited by pcb; 09-30-2018 at 07:32 PM.
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  15. #30
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I'm thinking if you don't have +12 V on the W/G wire then you could splice in a wire to that wire, then to a fuse, then directly to the battery.
    That may send the B+ voltage through the W/G wire into the relay.

    You could test my hypothesis by just plugging a wire from the battery to a fuse to the W/G wire then test for B+ at the main relay.
    You would be essentially be bypassing the bad internal connection and using the backdoor to get power in.
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