More fuel pump relay fun!

I will just pull the one out of the parts car that I installed in 2006 when the car was just out of warranty but the Michigan road salt had chemically attacked the white plastic and caused leaks after top-off. It should still be good. My main concern is the gas fumes, ugh.
 
We're still chasing gooses (which is funner to say than geese) but I think we've got them cornered now....
 
You could make a meal of it,... Thanksgiving and Christmas are coming up...

 
No goose.

Fuel pump assembly swapped with known good one from parts car, has approx 110k miles and ran great when parked.

No start.
 
No goose.

Fuel pump assembly swapped with known good one from parts car, has approx 110k miles and ran great when parked.

No start.

Is it running ??
Is power going to it ??

Are the relays powered and clicking ??
 
See if you can hear/feel the main and fuel pump relays clicking when the ignition is turned on.
 
If Nathanagnew comes over I will have him turn the ignition while I feel the relays.

This car is cursed.
 
You need B+ on the red wire with a green stripe to have power to the fuel pump.

You could check to see if you have spark (this can maybe wait)

Remove a plug put the sparkplug boot back on and lay it on the valve cover.

If you don't have spark, then your ECU has shutdown the car.


Check for continuity on the black wire going to the fuel pump.
With the battery disconnected, test for ohms between the black wire and ground,... It should be near zero.
 
Pulling INJ fuse and replacing it causes a loud click from intake area.

Leaving INJ fuse in, pulling green main relay and replacing it causes loud click from intake area.

Note that no click can be heard from green main relay even though it's demonstratebly sending power to some relay in intake area. Likewise, no clicks can be heard from black fuel pump relay(s) but before my alligator clips quit working I know I got clicks from both of them.

So sick of this car. Morale is low.
 
See if you can hear/feel the main and fuel pump relays clicking when the ignition is turned on.

Your main relay should click regardless between off and ignition.
Your fuel pump relay should click but won't if your ECU has shut down the car
 
Do this and see if you can feel clicking on the fuel pump relay.
You can tap the ground wire a bunch of times to test.



Test for B+ on the red with white stripe wire (I misspoke earlier and said green stripe), with the FP terminal grounded
 
You need B+ on the red wire with a green stripe to have power to the fuel pump.

You could check to see if you have spark (this can maybe wait)

Remove a plug put the sparkplug boot back on and lay it on the valve cover.

If you don't have spark, then your ECU has shutdown the car.


Check for continuity on the black wire going to the fuel pump.
With the battery disconnected, test for ohms between the black wire and ground,... It should be near zero.

Continuity to black wire terminal of fuel pump connector confirmed.
No power to red-white wire.

B+ power confirmed at both input and output sides of fuel pump relay terminals, which means either I have two dead relays on hand or there is a wiring fault between relay and red-white wire at pump connector.

Not checking for spark until I have someone to crank the car over.
 
Test for continuity between R3 of the fuel pump relay and the Red/White wire at the fuel pump.



 
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