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Thread: 2nd Generation CX-9: Running cable for rear dashcam

  1. #1
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    2nd Generation CX-9: Running cable for rear dashcam

    This is a DIY How-To for a rear dashcam installation for the 2nd Generation Mazda CX-9. Please note that this guide is mostly just to show how I ran the power cable for the rear dashcam. With this particular front and rear dashcam combo (Viofo A129 Duo), the rear camera transfers data and gets power from the front camera via a single cable. The front camera is connected to the Homelink-enabled rear view mirror using an Invisicord (more details found here).

    This process was documented/photographed by myself, using a crappy P+S digital camera and my 2018 Mazda CX-9 Signature as the "demo" vehicle. This DIY is provided as a learning aid and reference guide. I assume no responsibility for any damages you may inflict on yourself or your vehicle.

    The camera set I installed is the Viofo A129 Duo. Both front and rear cameras record in 1080p 30 FPS (if the rear is disconnected, the front changes to 1080p 60 FPS). It takes still photos, and has a mic. Along with other standard features, it has GPS and Wi-Fi functionality, and can accept up to a 256gb microSD card. Viofo has stated that the best cards to use for their dashcams are Transcend High Endurance. Samsung Pro cards also work well, but they will not honor the 10 year warranty if the card is used for "surveillance recordings". Since both cameras write to the single card in the front camera, I plan to upgrade my 32gb Transcend High Endurance card to a 128gb. Moving on..


    What you'll need:

    - Flathead screwdriver/pry tool
    - A rear dashcam
    - Wire fish tool
    - USB extension cable (more on this later)


    1. Figure out where you want to mount the rear dashcam on the rear windshield. Be sure that you take into account the cords that may plug into the camera and the cards that may be installed, and leave adequate space around the camera to make those areas easy to access. If your camera has a video display, you can connect the power cable and turn the car on, then mount the camera using the video output as a guide. Ensure that the double-sided tape does not cover any rear-defroster lines. Covering these lines may cause issues with the defroster functionality, and removal of the double-sided tape could damage the defroster lines. After mounting the camera, turn off the car.


    2. Since my rear cam is powered by the front cam, I ran the wire from the front camera through the headliner on the driver's side.


    DSC03326.JPG


    3. Run the cable around the A-pillar and into the rubber weatherstrip.


    DSC03327.JPG


    4. Run the cable down to the footwell area, tucking it behind the weatherstrip as you go.


    DSC03328.JPG


    5. Using your screwdriver or pry tool (wrap the end in an old t-shirt or something if you want to prevent scratches), insert one end into the groove identified by the yellow arrow and pry the step cover up. This piece is held on by plastic and metal clips. Once you get your fingers underneath you can easily pull it off by hand. The area underneath is exposed, which is the perfect way to run the cable to rear.


    DSC03329.JPG


    6. Open the rear door and remove the step cover (same as the front). Use your wire fish tool to pull the cable from the front to the rear, then run the cable up through the weatherstrip of the rear door frame. This is when I realized that the cable that was provided to me wasn't long enough (6m/19.7ft).


    DSC03332.JPG

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    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    7. As a temporary solution, I tucked the cable behind the seat belt bracket, then tucked it behind the D-pillar panel to keep it out of the way.


    DSC03335.JPG


    8. Remove the liftgate cover. This piece simply pulls right off, and is held in by metal and plastic clips. The red arrows show where some of the clips attach. Connect the power cable to the rear camera.


    DSC03333.JPG


    9. Replace the liftgate cover by pressing down on the areas identified by the yellow arrows.


    DSC03334.JPG


    As it stands right now, both cameras are working great! But I need to figure out a solution to lengthen the USB cable. I have an old USB extension, but I don't think it'll be compatible as the cable supplied by Viofo transfers data and power, and as such, is a much thicker cable. Will update when I hear back from Viofo.

    Originally I had planned to try dropping the headliner and running the cable from the weatherstrip to behind the headliner, where it would come out where the 3rd brake light is. I'll update this post if I can find the time to try that.
    Last edited by sm1ke; 09-27-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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    You can run your cable on the inside of headliner, that would free enough cable.
    This is how I did it, and just secured with duct tape to prevent rattling. ( my setup is little different: Viofo 119S up front and Blueskysea in rear, but I ran power cable from the front this way):
    Also I ran my cable through Right rubber boot, as it has more room due to only been used for rear window washer sprayer line)


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    That rocks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vitpk1 View Post
    You can run your cable on the inside of headliner, that would free enough cable.
    This is how I did it, and just secured with duct tape to prevent rattling. ( my setup is little different: Viofo 119S up front and Blueskysea in rear, but I ran power cable from the front this way)
    Thanks for those pics vitpk1. Did you run the power from the front headliner all the way to the rear (without going down the weatherstripping and through the step channels)? If so, I'll definitely do that instead.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fruitwolf View Post
    That rocks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to post.
    Happy to
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    2nd Generation CX-9: Running cable for rear dashcam

    I did run power from fuse box ( used tap a fuse adapter), single 12V to 5V adapter, than spliced power cords for the front and rear dash cams, ran it up the pillar and secured to the inside of the headliner( one power cord for the rear all the way and one cord towards the rearview mirror).
    Last edited by vitpk1; 09-28-2018 at 12:38 PM.

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    Hi,

    Can you please provide where and which fuse adapter you used and are you able to guide me through the process?

    Thanks

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    Work in Progress sm1ke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vitpk1 View Post
    I did run power from fuse box ( used tap a fuse adapter), single 12V to 5V adapter, than spliced power cords for the front and rear dash cams, ran it up the pillar and secured to the inside of the headliner( one power cord for the rear all the way and one cord towards the rearview mirror).
    Perfect, thanks. Sounds like the whole wire fish step can be avoided, which is nice because others won't have to go through what I went through (made my own wire fish by taping three chopsticks together and putting a twist tie on one end, lol).
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    Ok! So I tried running the wire through the headliner instead of through the step channels. It was pretty straight forward, but due to the thickness of the cable (and because I was a little lazy and strapped for time to figure out how to lower the headliner), it doesn't look as clean as I had hoped. No big deal though, the wire is only exposed in two spots. I think if I could figure out how to pop the screw out of the headliner (near the single interior light just above the cargo area), I could drop the headliner a bit and fish the wire through the boot, as vitpk1 did. Unfortunately, I'm still stuck with 6" of exposed cable due to the thickness.

    Anyway, here are the pics. Again, very straight forward, so a step by step really isn't necessary, I think.


    DSC03341.JPG

    Here you can see that I couldn't get the cable hidden here. A thinner cable would tuck behind there nicely.

    DSC03342.JPG


    DSC03345.JPG


    DSC03346.JPG

    You can tuck and secure the excess cabling behind the upper liftgate cover, as shown in this pic.

    DSC03339.JPG


    There's still room for improvement with my routing, for sure, but for now it looks clean enough.

    The Viofo A129 Duo camera setup is pretty good so far! Nice to not have to buy and manage two microSD cards, and it's also nice that it doesn't freeze up if I leave it running for too long. Now all I need is a larger microSD card
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    vitpk1, how did you remove the screw in the headliner (shown in this pic, with your index finger pointing towards the hole)? It looks like one of those fasteners where you use a flathead to lift the center, and the entire screw pops out, but I didn't see a spot to insert a screwdriver.

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