Second Gen (2017 and up) CX-5 AA/ACP Installation Videos

Thanks for the videos OP. They were a huge help in knowing what to expect.

I elected to do my install a little differently. I did not remove the cupholders / HMI / shifter bezel / wallet tray or tunnel side trims. I prepped the cable with the foam and ran it down the dash from the head unit. No fishing wire necessary. Buttoned up everything in the dash and down to the tunnel exactly as you did.

From there I left the cable loose and poked it up under the tunnel plastic where it meets the carpet between the passenger seat and the arm rest. To do this slide the passenger seat all the way forward and work from the back seat. I knew this would lead directly to the USB port in the console as that was the first thing I looked at after disassembly.

From there I buttoned up everything inside the console the way you did. Working space was much tighter without removing the cupholder but I managed. I also managed to get a zip tie around the existing wire loom to secure the new cables under the cup holder blindly. That part wasn't exactly easy but I got it done.

I then tucked the remainder of the cable up into the tunnel under the plastic and buttoned everything up in the passenger kick panel as you did.

Basically I did everything the same as you except for running through the interior of the tunnel. But anyone considering the same needs to decide for themselves what's best for you and your car as this obviously isn't how Mazda says to do it.

Total time for me was ~45 minutes, not including the software update which was done well in advance. I hadn't taken the CX-5's dash apart before but do have experience working with car audio and interiors / electronics so I was comfortable going in.

The only trouble I came into was with a plastic alignment peg on the left side of the screen unit not lining up correctly on re-install, preventing it from fully seating properly into the dash. I had to pull one tab from the gauge cluster surround out to get some wiggle room to get the peg lined up at the correct angle. Once it went in everything else re-assembled without any further issue. In your video it looks like you were fiddling with the same spot a little when re-installing the head unit and the video skips, then it's sitting right. I'm curious if you had a similar experience.

Anyhow, a complete tool list used:
- a plastic trim tool
- phillips screwdriver
- 3/8 ratchet + extension + 10mm socket
- flashlight
- small side-cutters (for trimming zip ties)
- a knife to cut the last piece of foam in half

Thanks again for the work you put into the videos. They were extremely helpful.

I had trouble getting the left side lined up as well. With some patience, it worked well eventually. Definitely agree it's easier to start at the head unit with your wiring and work back. Avoids the issues people have had here trying to fish the wires up. Taking apart the console pieces wasn't that hard. I'd do it again rather than stuff the cables up as you described.
 
Keep in mind the official guide says to remove the pieces around the compass/cluster to make getting the head unit in easier. I didnt remove these either, but that is why that part takes more fiddling then anything else.
 
Thanks for these great videos!

BTW, is it possible to somehow install the usb hub into the box(or hole, you name it) under the air conditioner panel, besides the power outlet? Because that's the typical place I put my phone. Have a wire go into the center console is not that elegant. And I'm not sure about the signal reception status if I put the phone inside the console directly.
 
Thanks for these great videos!

BTW, is it possible to somehow install the usb hub into the box(or hole, you name it) under the air conditioner panel, besides the power outlet? Because that's the typical place I put my phone. Have a wire go into the center console is not that elegant. And I'm not sure about the signal reception status if I put the phone inside the console directly.

There are other wire connectors that attach to the usb hub that may not be extendable up to the front dash.

My wire tucks in by the seat, unseen unless needed.
 
There are other wire connectors that attach to the usb hub that may not be extendable up to the front dash.

My wire tucks in by the seat, unseen unless needed.

You are right. Thanks for point out the extra connectors which I overlooked. But meanwhile, I'm wondering since the usb is self powered, if I only connect the new usb cable and give up aux/sd card interfaces, will the ACP/AA still work?
 
I had trouble getting the left side lined up as well. With some patience, it worked well eventually. Definitely agree it's easier to start at the head unit with your wiring and work back. Avoids the issues people have had here trying to fish the wires up. Taking apart the console pieces wasn't that hard. I'd do it again rather than stuff the cables up as you described.

Get my upgrade done by following your steps. Thank you very much!
I also buttoned up 2 buttons at the right side of the meter hood when trying to put the screen back.
 
Thanks for the videos OP. They were a huge help in knowing what to expect.

I elected to do my install a little differently. I did not remove the cupholders / HMI / shifter bezel / wallet tray or tunnel side trims. I prepped the cable with the foam and ran it down the dash from the head unit. No fishing wire necessary. Buttoned up everything in the dash and down to the tunnel exactly as you did.

From there I left the cable loose and poked it up under the tunnel plastic where it meets the carpet between the passenger seat and the arm rest. To do this slide the passenger seat all the way forward and work from the back seat. I knew this would lead directly to the USB port in the console as that was the first thing I looked at after disassembly.

From there I buttoned up everything inside the console the way you did. Working space was much tighter without removing the cupholder but I managed. I also managed to get a zip tie around the existing wire loom to secure the new cables under the cup holder blindly. That part wasn't exactly easy but I got it done.

I then tucked the remainder of the cable up into the tunnel under the plastic and buttoned everything up in the passenger kick panel as you did.

Basically I did everything the same as you except for running through the interior of the tunnel. But anyone considering the same needs to decide for themselves what's best for you and your car as this obviously isn't how Mazda says to do it.

Total time for me was ~45 minutes, not including the software update which was done well in advance. I hadn't taken the CX-5's dash apart before but do have experience working with car audio and interiors / electronics so I was comfortable going in.

Thanks, also considering this approach. Just want to double check that I understand correctly, you only removed the dashboard trim and side trim. Left the entire console running from the from to front to back intact. The cable was tugged in under the plastic and carpet. The part I am unsure about is how you got the old aux unit out and the cables in underneath the console?

Thanks
 
Thanks, also considering this approach. Just want to double check that I understand correctly, you only removed the dashboard trim and side trim. Left the entire console running from the from to front to back intact. The cable was tugged in under the plastic and carpet. The part I am unsure about is how you got the old aux unit out and the cables in underneath the console?

Thanks

Correct. The glove box also came out.

The old aux unit pulls out from inside the console storage bin. The whole side of the console comes out, then the aux unit comes out of that side holster piece. A set of plastic trim removal tools really helps get all this stuff out quickly and safely (dash included).

I ran the cable down from the CMU, down beside the glove box and out the bottom console / kick in the passenger side. Then I laid the cable loose in the interior between the passenger seat and the console. Slide the passenger seat all the way forward, and by working from the back seat I poked the cable up into the console at the carpet / console joint.

With the aux unit removed, if you pop the cable up in the right spot, you just grab the cable through the console and pulled it up as needed.

I then installed the new aux unit in the console and worked back towards the dash, pulling out the slack and tucking the cable up behind the console plastics where it meets the carpet. I did everything else as recommended from the side of the console under the dash and up, including storing the slack in this location.

The hardest part is working in the reduced space in the console because I didn't remove the cupholder. If you need working space it would've been much easier to remove only that piece as well and leave the rest of the bits installed. I didn't have the need to do that though.

The only other annoying parts were trying to get the CMU back in (lining up the alignment pin on the left side was a pain) and wrapping the cables in those foam pieces. Easy but time consuming.

Again, this isn't how Mazda specifies so do at your own risk. Worked out fine for me.
 
Correct. The glove box also came out.

The old aux unit pulls out from inside the console storage bin. The whole side of the console comes out, then the aux unit comes out of that side holster piece. A set of plastic trim removal tools really helps get all this stuff out quickly and safely (dash included).

I ran the cable down from the CMU, down beside the glove box and out the bottom console / kick in the passenger side. Then I laid the cable loose in the interior between the passenger seat and the console. Slide the passenger seat all the way forward, and by working from the back seat I poked the cable up into the console at the carpet / console joint.

With the aux unit removed, if you pop the cable up in the right spot, you just grab the cable through the console and pulled it up as needed.

I then installed the new aux unit in the console and worked back towards the dash, pulling out the slack and tucking the cable up behind the console plastics where it meets the carpet. I did everything else as recommended from the side of the console under the dash and up, including storing the slack in this location.

The hardest part is working in the reduced space in the console because I didn't remove the cupholder. If you need working space it would've been much easier to remove only that piece as well and leave the rest of the bits installed. I didn't have the need to do that though.

The only other annoying parts were trying to get the CMU back in (lining up the alignment pin on the left side was a pain) and wrapping the cables in those foam pieces. Easy but time consuming.

Again, this isn't how Mazda specifies so do at your own risk. Worked out fine for me.

Thanks, completed the install about 40 minutes ago. Probably saved 30 minutes install time doing it this way, it was really easy.
 
I'm just patiently waiting for a 3rd party vendor to make a compatible kit. $200 for USB cables is effing stupid.
 
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