Engine issues

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2002 Protegé5
Okay so this all started a couple days ago, after I cleaned up under the hood of the car. I was driving and suddenly started to lose power, and got a Cylinder 2 misfire code. I managed to find a spark jumping from the coil to a bolt, and put in good coils and wires. Unfortunately I still get intermittent loss of power, which will go away, and Im not sure where to look now. This morning the car would die at idle for a bit until the power came back. What should I check next?
 
It could still be your coils.
Coils for our car area real PITA, they can be bad brand new out of the box.
Apparently Polish coils are reliable and it might be the only part I'd spend the money for OEM.

Cylinder specific misfire points more towards coils.
Otherwise, here's the list of things to check.



EDIT... disregard this post if your engine misfire code didn't come back.
(I hope you didn't already change your coil)
 
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Another possibility is that your car is still in limp mode.
Whenever you get an engine misfire code, the car goes into limp mode.

You could try disconnecting your battery, wait ten minutes then reconnect it.
 
. This morning the car would die at idle for a bit until the power came back. What should I check next?

Your car may simply be learning how to idle the car.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the ECU needs to relearn how to idle the car.
It takes about 100 miles for the car to figure it out.


If your power loss remains, here's two lists to consider.



 
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...Unfortunately I still get intermittent loss of power, which will go away, and I*m not sure where to look now.

If the power loss is only at idle and your RPMS are bouncing around then it's most certainly the ECU relearning how to idle your car.
 
It could still be your coils.
Coils for our car area real PITA, they can be bad brand new out of the box.
Apparently Polish coils are reliable and it might be the only part I'd spend the money for OEM.

Cylinder specific misfire points more towards coils.
Otherwise, here's the list of things to check.



EDIT... disregard this post if your engine misfire code didn't come back.
(I hope you didn't already change your coil)
Code never came back, but I did swap the cpils for the ones in the white car, which have always been good.
 
Another possibility is that your car is still in limp mode.
Whenever you get an engine misfire code, the car goes into limp mode.

You could try disconnecting your battery, wait ten minutes then reconnect it.
Would limp mode be intermittent and last after clearing codes?
 
If the power loss is only at idle and your RPMS are bouncing around then it's most certainly the ECU relearning how to idle your car.

Power loss happens randomly, not always at idle. Does happen when driving, though winding out the RPM helps sometimes
 
My car idles like complete crap after I disconnect my battery. The idle bounces between 200 & 1200 RPMS and nearly stalls.

I just let it do it's thing while it relearns.
The first bit is the worst then it gets progressively better.
 
Give it some time then if it doesn't get better maybe try cleaning your EGR (it gets gummed up and sticks) and maybe your IAC as well.

A sticking EGR is a common problem with our car. It effects all Rpms. Some guys have to clean theirs every year.
 
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I'm almost positive that if your check engine light isn't on then you're not in limp mode.
 
Power loss happens randomly, not always at idle. Does happen when driving, though winding out the RPM helps sometimes

This is really starting to sound like a dirty/sticking EGR...
This is from another thread..

Keep your IAC in mind too, it could also be sticking open or closed causing a vacuum leak.
Maybe just clean it for good measure while you wait for your valve cover gasket to arrive.

It's a lot easier to remove than the EGR but it's got the same crappy screws that are made out of swiss cheese.

Keep in mind too that when you get your car running (I said when not if) that your EGR may foul up again but now you know exactly what to look for so you'll know what to do.

I figure if your car is burning oil it's more inclined to send dirty oil laden exhaust through it that will gum it up faster.

There is the Canadian EGR that has coolant lines attached and people that installed it never had an EGR problem again.
They are expensive though.



(PS.. The EGR with coolant lines isn't listed for the P5 but is listed for the regular protg at Rockauto... But they fit and work fine on the P5)
 
So my drive home from work was the first time since Sunday evening where the car did not misbehave at all. I got home, checked spark plugs, they*re fine. Cleaned the connector for the #2 injector despite no apparent issue in there, and it started fine again, nothing acting up.
 
Keep in mind that idle control isn't sent to the IAC until after the car is warmed up but your ECU may have figured out the IAC by now.

If your car acts up during normal driving then I would consider checking/cleaning the EGR.
 
Keep in mind that idle control isn't sent to the IAC until after the car is warmed up but your ECU may have figured out the IAC by now.

If your car acts up during normal driving then I would consider checking/cleaning the EGR.

Will do if it starts acting up again. So far so good
 
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