Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

Mine was just shy of this lower mark at 122F

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So another conformation that Mazda low-filled ATF from factory to our automatic transmission. The same on engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential. I don't know what to say.

For those who use the quantity drained as the measurement to refill the ATF, you simply can't do that. You have to measure the ATF level at proper temperature with dipstick.

I'd guess you would need about 3.7 quarts to refill for proper ATF level at 122F similar to what ColoradoDriver had found.
 
I will measure out to the fluid ounce but good to know on likely 3.7 quart refill. I do agree for all owners and all years. Even if you are far from service replacement mileage check your fluid levels on all fluid serviceable areas. I'm gonna space my 3 AT fluid swaps a few hundred miles apart. I also plan to keep my underbody splash shields off until I am done with this service project.
 
I will measure out to the fluid ounce but good to know on likely 3.7 quart refill. I do agree for all owners and all years. Even if you are far from service replacement mileage check your fluid levels on all fluid serviceable areas. I'm gonna space my 3 AT fluid swaps a few hundred miles apart. I also plan to keep my underbody splash shields off until I am done with this service project.
And only use a new aluminum drain plug washer during the 3rd ATF change.

BTW, did you have to push away the whole air box like Speedie95 described in order to access the ATF dipstick from top?
 
I've actually got a bunch of spare washers now but good note.

I accessed my dipstick from the bottom with splash-shield off. I will be filling from top with long reach funnel. Nothing moved on the topside.
 
I've actually got a bunch of spare washers now but good note.

I accessed my dipstick from the bottom with splash-shield off. I will be filling from top with long reach funnel. Nothing moved on the topside.
tomcat1446 had mentioned in the How-To thread that be careful of the dirt accumulated around the dipstick by bad design and they would easily to fall into ATF fill hole when you pull the dipstick. By accessing the dipstick from bottom, you can't really see and control the accumulated dirt.

just FYI, I was able to check the transmission dipstick WITHOUT having to disassemble the air intake........

I can understand why some may want to, it makes it easier, but just giving another option that it's not necessary......


first need to drop the plastic panels, for the CX-5 you DO NOT NEED to lift up the front of the car,

there is more than enough clearance.





these are the type of screws to remove, some philips, some 10mm, and some 8mm panel fasteners...




here is picture from underneath, you can easily access the dipstick and dipstick bolt:


it is reachable from underneath:








there's plenty of room to get a stubby ratchet with 10mm socket





the bolt holding down the dipstick is 10mm size:


this picture shows the dipstick can easily be removed from underneath without having to disassemble the air intake


dipstick reading, hard to tell but looks ok to me, not low not high, just in the middle.... fluid is super clean though, I have 16,000 odometer miles


as others have mentioned, Mazda design allows dirt to accumulate as shown:


dirt can get under the dipstick, I cleaned it carefully making sure dirt doesn't go down the hole:
I ripped a small piece of my detailing clay bar and used clay slowly over the dirt and the clay grabbed most of the debris,
then like Gova used a damp cleaning wipe to clean the remaining residue, worked quite well, obviously, I threw out the clay,
no way I was going to use it again for detailing, the encased debris will cause scratches.



make sure to clean off dirt on O-ring before putting it back in:



tools used:

safety glasses, stubby ratchet with 10mm socket

gloves, one of my mechanic friends gave me this tip, use old golf or batting gloves, a lot more dexterity, works great!!


panel fastener tool remover:


my trusty Worx for the underpanel 10mm scrwes, my wife thinks it looks like a gun :)


probably do drain and fill at around 35,000 miles, will do as above and measure what drains out and get a long flexible tube funnel and pour back thru the dipstick hole the same amount. I like the fact that car can be done level on the ground, and no need to remove air intake assembly; just need to remove the plastic paneling which needs to be done anyway to get to the transmission drain plug, and most of all can do it myself without going to dealer, I'm sure those monkeys would get tons of dirt into the fill hole.

also just an FYI, if you plan to drain and fill, I recommend changing the aluminum washer, thanks to yrwei52, here's the part number, Mazda 99564-1400 (same washer for the engine oil plug)




.
 
I could see topside there wasn't any debris around dipstick. You can see it from the top and in fact loosened the retaining bolt from the top. There wasn't any dirt on my o-ring when I pulled it out either. Conditions may vary though on everyone's vehicle.
 
I could see topside there wasn't any debris around dipstick. You can see it from the top and in fact loosened the retaining bolt from the top. There wasn't any dirt on my o-ring when I pulled it out either. Conditions may vary though on everyone's vehicle.
Good to know!
 
So another conformation that Mazda low-filled ATF from factory to our automatic transmission. The same on engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential. I don't know what to say.

For those who use the quantity drained as the measurement to refill the ATF, you simply can't do that. You have to measure the ATF level at proper temperature with dipstick.

I'd guess you would need about 3.7 quarts to refill for proper ATF level at 122F similar to what ColoradoDriver had found.
This assumes Kedis drains the same 3.5qts I do. I'd say whatever you end up draining, just add .2 qts more.
 
IIRC he disapproves strongly of changing the "lifetime" fluids.

In general, correct, but at 16-35k miles and under warranty, it*s just comical and a waste of perfectly good fluid and harm to the environment...You also deserve any problems you encounter, and the warranty should be voided...The logic of thinking is just, idk, dumb. Don*t give me the preventative maintenance BS, either...
 
Fluid color was about the same color as ColoradoDriver's. It was obviously brown on dipstick too. I remember checking it at half mileage and it was visually clearer at that time.

Experience on mine:

Drained amount: 3 quarts & 13 fl oz (3.4 quarts)

Refill amount: 3 quarts & 23 fl oz (~3.72 quart)

While my AT temperature was at 122F my coolant was around 160F from a cold start scenario.

I agree.... all the measuring is cumbersome but now that I have a known good fill amount subsequent changes will be easy.

- Removed bottom splash shields
- I checked dipstick from bottom
- I filled from the top with long reach funnel
- I didn't need to disconnect anything up top.
- Loosened fill plug from top but removed from bottom. One could as seen posts above remove from bottom as well.
- Tightened the fill plug to in-lb with torque wrench from top
 
Fluid color was about the same color as ColoradoDriver's. It was obviously brown on dipstick too. I remember checking it at half mileage and it was visually clearer at that time.

Experience on mine:

Drained amount: 3 quarts & 13 fl oz (3.4 quarts)

Refill amount: 3 quarts & 23 fl oz (~3.72 quart)

While my AT temperature was at 122F my coolant was around 160F from a cold start scenario.

I agree.... all the measuring is cumbersome but now that I have a known good fill amount subsequent changes will be easy.

- Removed bottom splash shields
- I checked dipstick from bottom
- I filled from the top with long reach funnel
- I didn't need to disconnect anything up top.
- Loosened fill plug from top but removed from bottom. One could as seen posts above remove from bottom as well.
- Tightened the fill plug to in-lb with torque wrench from top
Thanks for the info. Looks like removing the dipstick from bottom, but filling the fresh ATF from top is the way to go like tomcat1446 suggested before.
 
These funnels make filling so easy

68aa41be-9b10-49f5-8528-03ad5ae9837f_1.26fd8549b4547548ab118a27ad1ffafb.jpeg


The long fill tube piece removes from the funnel so just to make sure I didn't have any issues I put a small worm gear hose clamp on where they come together.

5X441_AS04


I also had a small measuring pitcher on hand to measure the new fluid when the fluid ounce part came into play.

41lwXBj61TL.jpg


I used an old empty Mazda oil container with the measurement marks on the side to measure used fluid. There are better options than this but it worked for measuring used fluid. I could have just picked up two of the above and used one for old and one for new.
 
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Fluid color was about the same color as ColoradoDriver's. It was obviously brown on dipstick too. I remember checking it at half mileage and it was visually clearer at that time.

Experience on mine:

Drained amount: 3 quarts & 13 fl oz (3.4 quarts)

Refill amount: 3 quarts & 23 fl oz (~3.72 quart)

While my AT temperature was at 122F my coolant was around 160F from a cold start scenario.

I agree.... all the measuring is cumbersome but now that I have a known good fill amount subsequent changes will be easy.

- Removed bottom splash shields
- I checked dipstick from bottom
- I filled from the top with long reach funnel
- I didn't need to disconnect anything up top.
- Loosened fill plug from top but removed from bottom. One could as seen posts above remove from bottom as well.
- Tightened the fill plug to in-lb with torque wrench from top

Nice job!
 
Going into these services when one has never done them on "specific vehicle" always give me a cautious pause. Next fluid drop 2 of 3 will feel like an oil change without the filter.
 
Going into these services when one has never done them on "specific vehicle" always give me a cautious pause. Next fluid drop 2 of 3 will feel like an oil change without the filter.

Amen to that! The CX-5 is the first car that I've worked on, though I've serviced my motorbikes for years. In the last couple of weekends I've done the ATF drain and fill, transfer case and rear diff fluids, new brake pads and rotors, and a brake fluid flush. All were approached with the utmost caution, none turned out to be at all problematic thanks to the many detailed guides in this forum.
 
I suppose some might be able to get their arm down from top to pull dipstick. For an extra safety piece temporarily unplug the electrical connector on that driver side fan. I did that during mine for a just-in-case scenario.
 
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