Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

So...just did my transmission fluid drain and fill this morning.

Overall success, though something peculiar happened. I measured it when the blue light went off. Maybe slightly warmer as I took it for a spin around the block. Let it cool down a few minutes. Slightly low, not too low though.

Put it up on the ramps. Drained 3 1/2 qts as measured by my catch pan with measurements. I did also capture a little bit to send for analysis.

So...I proceed to put 3 1/2 qts in of the new fluid. When I go to put the old fluid in the now empty bottles, suddenly I only have enough old fluid to fill 3 at which point I say where did the other half quart go.

Perhaps I added too much now...I don't know. But everything is running fine and I have put 100 miles on today since performing the work.

I measured and filled from the top with airbox removed. Was easy.

As I plan to do this procedure again in a couple weeks, perhaps I will just check it cold? I don't know. 3 1/2 drained out but I only filled up 3 qts with the old fluid. (scratch)

You were able to start it up and measure with the airbox removed?
 
Sorry...that was initial measure. Was it supposed to stay on while measured?
Yes, the engine should be running while measuring the ATF level, or you'll get incorrect reading with higher level. So your ATF level was low from factory like many people have found out.


CX-5 Factory Service Manual said:
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) INSPECTION [GW6A-EL, GW6AX-EL]
id0517i2118500

Caution
If the ATF level is not within the specification or ATF is not adhering to the dipstick after warming up the engine, do not drive the vehicle. Otherwise, the transaxle could be damaged.


ATF Level Inspection

1. Remove the front under cover No.2. (See FRONT UNDER COVER No.2 REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)
2. Disconnect the oil pipe No.1 from the harness bracket with the oil hose connected. (With Oil cooler No.2)
3. Remove the dipstick securing bolt.
4. Connect the M-MDS to the DLC-2 and display the PID TFT.
5. Warm up the engine until the ATF temperature is 50C {122 F}.
6. Remove the dipstick and wipe ATF off using a nylon cloth while leaving the engine idling.
Warning
Keep hands and tools away from the cooling fan even if the cooling fan is not operating to prevent injury, or damage to the cooling fan.
Do not touch parts which have become heated. Otherwise, it could cause severe burns or serious injury.

7. Insert the dipstick and pull it out again.
8. Verify that the ATF is adhering between L and F on the dipstick.
If ATF is not adhering between L and F on the dipstick, adjust the ATF level. (See AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) ADJUSTMENT [GW6A-EL, GW6AX-EL].)
Note
The ATF color is blue.
Only use ATF FZ for the GW6A-EL, GW6AX-EL.
ATF type ATF FZ
9. Insert the dipstick and install the securing bolt.
Tightening torque
811 Nm {82112 kgfcm, 7197 inlbf}

10. Install the oil pipe No.1 to the harness bracket. (With Oil cooler No.2)
11. Install the front under cover No.2. (See FRONT UNDER COVER No.2 REMOVAL/ INSTALLATION.)
 
So...just did my transmission fluid drain and fill this morning.

Overall success, though something peculiar happened. I measured it when the blue light went off. Maybe slightly warmer as I took it for a spin around the block. Let it cool down a few minutes. Slightly low, not too low though.

Put it up on the ramps. Drained 3 1/2 qts as measured by my catch pan with measurements. I did also capture a little bit to send for analysis.

So...I proceed to put 3 1/2 qts in of the new fluid. When I go to put the old fluid in the now empty bottles, suddenly I only have enough old fluid to fill 3 at which point I say where did the other half quart go.

Perhaps I added too much now...I don't know. But everything is running fine and I have put 100 miles on today since performing the work.

I measured and filled from the top with airbox removed. Was easy.

As I plan to do this procedure again in a couple weeks, perhaps I will just check it cold? I don't know. 3 1/2 drained out but I only filled up 3 qts with the old fluid. (scratch)

Weigh it and to hell with volume.
 
IMO ColoradoDriver is fine on ATF level as his factory-fill ATF lever is low measured with engine stopped. He also took some old ATF out for analysis. And most people seem to use 3.5~3.8 quarts of fresh ATF to refill. Hes going to do the next ATF change within 2 weeks, and at that time he should follow the procedure from factory service manual making sure the ATF level is correct.
 
IMO ColoradoDriver is fine on ATF level as his factory-fill ATF lever is low measured with engine stopped. He also took some old ATF out for analysis. And most people seem to use 3.5~3.8 quarts of fresh ATF to refill. Hes going to do the next ATF change within 2 weeks, and at that time he should follow the procedure from factory service manual making sure the ATF level is correct.
Yep, I will measure running this time lol!
 
Keep driver her like you have been Colorado. Look forward to you providing the analysis of the ATF...
 
Yep, I will measure running this time lol!
Were you able to move around the whole air box without disconnecting anything to access the ATF dipstick? And were you able to get Mazda ATF FZ from tascaparts.com for $10.72 pet quart?
 
Were you able to move around the whole air box without disconnecting anything to access the ATF dipstick? And were you able to get Mazda ATF FZ from tascaparts.com for $10.72 pet quart?
Yes, you can remove the airbox without disconnecting anything. The top of the airbox (what you pop off to replace engine air filter) can be moved out of the way and not removed entirely. You disconnect it from the air tube of course, but nothing else needs to be taken off of it. And then 2 bolts to take out the rest of the airbox. So I forget what you called it...the airflow sensor or something? You don't have to disconnect it at all. It's all very simple to do.

I ended up getting it locally as the tascaparts charged separate handling and shipping which brought it up to negligible price difference from just buying locally.

Also, glad I removed the airbox to access dipstick. It was extremely dirty under it, so I will agree with others, not the best design by Mazda. Carefully cleaned the area to ensure no dirt fell in the hole.
 
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Yes, you can remove the airbox without disconnecting anything. The top of the airbox (what you pop off to replace engine air filter) can be moved out of the way and not removed entirely. You disconnect it from the air tube of course, but nothing else needs to be taken off of it. And then 2 bolts to take out the rest of the airbox. So I forget what you called it...the airflow sensor or something? You don't have to disconnect it at all. It's all very simple to do.

I ended up getting it locally as the tascaparts charged separate handling and shipping which brought it up to negligible price difference from just buying locally.

Also, glad I removed the airbox to access dipstick. It was extremely dirty under it, so I will agree with others, not the best design by Mazda. Carefully cleaned the area to ensure no dirt fell in the hole.
So I guess the day for ~$10 per quart on FZ ATF is gone now we have to pay almost $20! (notcool)

Now you can do ATF drain-and-fill by yourself on your CX-5, the next task is to change the gear oil in front transfer case and rear differential?

DIY can be fun and save money, but most importantly it can prevent the dirt around the dipstick falling into the transmission! :) (Believe me, most mechanics don*t care!)
 
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So I guess the day for ~$10 per quart on FZ ATF is gone now we have to pay almost $20! (notcool)

Now you can do ATF drain-and-fill by yourself on your CX-5, the next task is to change the gear oil in front transfer case and rear differential?

DIY can be fun and save money, but most importantly it can prevent the dirt around the dipstick falling into the transmission! :) (Believe me, most mechanics don*t care!)
Already got my rear differential and transfer case oils changed, but hey I suppose it cane be next on the list ;)
 
Update- Did 2nd D&R after about 1K miles. Fluid sample still very dark, but, a little less than before. Will do another D&R after about 500 miles this time.
 
Plan to do my 2nd drain and fill this Saturday (maybe). Will be about 300-400 miles since last Saturday when I did the first.

So...question. I am concerned that perhaps I didn't measure correctly as it sounds like I need to leave the engine running while checking the dipstick? If that's the case, can I still take the airbox out and measure or will that throw a bunch of errors and such? I feel less confident trying to access and measure from below, and don't think I could undo the securing bolt on the dipstick very easily from below.

Also, bought a 4 qt clear pitcher that had much better markings for measuring. Also thinking of just buying a scale too to weigh the fluid as I've made myself paranoid that I didn't measure it right.
 
Update- Did 2nd D&R after about 1K miles. Fluid sample still very dark, but, a little less than before. Will do another D&R after about 500 miles this time.

Makes sense. At best we are just diluting the old fluid more and more with each drain and fill.

I got 3 1/2 quarts on my 1st drain and fill, which if calculated against the capacity of 8.2 quarts (I think...), is almost 43% of the fluid.
 
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Makes sense. At best we are just diluting the old fluid more and more with each drain and fill.

I got 3 1/2 quarts on my 1st drain and fill, which if calculated against the capacity of 8.2 quarts (I think...), is almost 43% of the fluid.

Why not just drop the pan and change the filter??(scratch)
 
Why not just drop the pan and change the filter??(scratch)
ATF filter cartridge is not that easy to get dirty in a sealed environment and most metal debris are stick with the maganent on the pan anyway. The hassle of using silicon to seal the pan properly is something even I hate to do.
 
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