Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

Lol, yrwei thanks for filling in on that. I read return lines and complete forgot there arent any on the Skyactiv transmission.
 
OK, thanks for the pics and clearing it up that it is an actual heat exchanger. Reason for the question is Jatco JF011E CVT transmissions used in many brands, including my Suzukis, there is a filter element behind a cover similar to the one pictured above for the trans fluid and those hoses sent fluid out to an external cooler. The existence of the filter I speak of within the trans is not acknowledged by any of the auto makers utilizing the trans in their vehicles. No mention in their FSMs, TSBs, or parts diagrams, except, Mitsubishi. There is a very small filter in all of those CVTs, regardless of auto brand. It's a fibrous cartridge type. An oil filter w/o the metal can wrapped around it.

Jatco CVT service parts for our Suzukis (order the O-ring and cartridge filter from Mitsubishi):

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Just wanted to confirm, since this thread had discussed filters and I wanted to know about this once I saw that photo in another thread that was referenced.
 
I*ll take that bet, but it won*t be with my fluid, because I*m not changing it. There*s no use to at 60k, or even 100k, and it*s not because Mazda told me so.

Metal shavings as the lubricant at 100k, ha, I needed that laugh this morning.

Based on my UOA of my ATF changed at 71k miles, I'm absolutely glad I put new fluid in there.
 
I*ll take that bet, but it won*t be with my fluid, because I*m not changing it. There*s no use to at 60k, or even 100k, and it*s not because Mazda told me so.

Metal shavings as the lubricant at 100k, ha, I needed that laugh this morning.

Not sure if your being sarcastic?

Mazda's factory oil has high amounts of moly as its friction additive. Moly= metal.

Once the transmission oil reaches a certain thershold where the original intended additives are spent....the metal shavings become the friction additive replacement. At this stage the tranny is highly dependent of the tranny fluid with high metal shaving content and should not be changed. Doing so = instant failure.

This is pretty much common knowledge to BMW owners and Transmission specialists alike.



This CX-5 had 8k miles. Look at the metal shavings on 2:20 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuE2v6Jycp8

Video helping to explain Transmissions and when to/when not to change fluid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o690DovjDAc

That said...if you plan and keeping your CX-5 for say 200k+ miles or want the next owner/s to have good transmission service or are just anal for this stuff...change the fluid.

If you don't care.....just don't change it and you'll be fine. Not so much the next owners down the road. Technically I want to not care myself :)
 
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I haven't seen anyone mention whether you check the ATF level with the engine running (like every car I've had with the standard accessible dipstick), or with the engine off.
 
Engine running. Easiest way seems to be removing the air box but keeping it plugged in. Run until the blue dash light goes off and check ATF stick while engine is on.
 
Engine running. Easiest way seems to be removing the air box but keeping it plugged in. Run until the blue dash light goes off and check ATF stick while engine is on.

Thanks.

That's what I figured, although it seems "awkward" to be laying under a running vehicle..

I've seen a couple of recommendations here for getting an ODB2 reader to get the tranny temp, but I have bought and downloaded two different software packages (TorquePro and ScanTool) and neither reads transmission temp that I can see. ScanTool has Mazda-specific PIDs for sale by model year, but they have yet to configure the package for 2019 (apparently delays on Mazda's end).
 
I haven't seen anyone mention whether you check the ATF level with the engine running (like every car I've had with the standard accessible dipstick), or with the engine off.
Its been mentioned many times before. Here's the official procedure to check ATF level for CX-5:

Nice!

ATF level should be at the central marker area on the dipstick at 122F while the engine is running. Make sure to shift into all possible gears during the warm-up.

Judging by the color of your drained ATF, I may consider another drain-and-fill if I were you.

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Been awhile but If I recall correctly:

The Blue light turns off at 131F.
Pro Torque app picks up coolant temp...to be used as reference temp for atf fluid.
 
Been awhile but If I recall correctly:

The Blue light turns off at 131F.
Pro Torque app picks up coolant temp...to be used as reference temp for atf fluid.

I have a temp gauge...no lights. I'd imagine one of the apps I have measures coolant temp.

I'm still waiting for ScanTool to release the Mazda-specific PIDs for the 2019 model year ($9.99 to buy that software). They say that there's a delay on Mazda's side this year in getting them the data. I can't imagine what the problem might be...the major changes due to cylinder deactivation should have flushed through the 2018 software.

It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.
 
⋯ It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.
In step 4.(1) of Adjust the ATF level, Connect the M-MDS to the DLC-2 and display the PID TFT, this Mazda system used by Mazda dealer displays the PIDs with many informations including engine coolant temperature and ATF temperature.
 
I have a temp gauge...no lights. I'd imagine one of the apps I have measures coolant temp.

I'm still waiting for ScanTool to release the Mazda-specific PIDs for the 2019 model year ($9.99 to buy that software). They say that there's a delay on Mazda's side this year in getting them the data. I can't imagine what the problem might be...the major changes due to cylinder deactivation should have flushed through the 2018 software.

It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.

Since there is no worry about the trans being over filled and you didn't do a transmission fluid replacement, you can just drive the car until the needle is at normal operating temperature and then check to see if the level falls somewhere between the marks. If it looks low then use a reader and get the trans to the exact temperature and check it. Mine has a temperature gauge too, I prefer it over a dummy light.
 
Thanks.

That's what I figured, although it seems "awkward" to be laying under a running vehicle..

I've seen a couple of recommendations here for getting an ODB2 reader to get the tranny temp, but I have bought and downloaded two different software packages (TorquePro and ScanTool) and neither reads transmission temp that I can see. ScanTool has Mazda-specific PIDs for sale by model year, but they have yet to configure the package for 2019 (apparently delays on Mazda's end).

Pretty sure youll have to get it from underneath with the turbo. Wiring harness and turbo plumbing are in the way.

Id love to hear how you go about it if you do wind up getting it from above.

Please keep us updated.
 
I did the tranny drain. Took out the air box and started engine only for it to choke up and shut down in less than 10 sec. Why does this happen since there is no fan blowing into the airbox anyway? air sensor was still attached to top of box. I broke a few of the plastic plugs holding the tranny and oil cover/ no idea how to unplug those as even a flat head screwdriver broke them to pieces.

I let fluid drip for 2 hours or so and it was still dripping when my pitcher hit the 3.7 Quart mark. I plugged it and filled it with around 3.8 Quarts even though I could have let it drip more.

did this for the first time on a 2015 cx-5 at 47k miles. fluid was a dark brown green hue when you put a bright flashlight to it. new fluid looked lighter green. would more fluid drain out if I elevated the back of car?
 
I did the tranny drain. Took out the air box and started engine only for it to choke up and shut down in less than 10 sec. Why does this happen since there is no fan blowing into the airbox anyway? air sensor was still attached to top of box. I broke a few of the plastic plugs holding the tranny and oil cover/ no idea how to unplug those as even a flat head screwdriver broke them to pieces.

I let fluid drip for 2 hours or so and it was still dripping when my pitcher hit the 3.7 Quart mark. I plugged it and filled it with around 3.8 Quarts even though I could have let it drip more.

did this for the first time on a 2015 cx-5 at 47k miles. fluid was a dark brown green hue when you put a bright flashlight to it. new fluid looked lighter green. would more fluid drain out if I elevated the back of car?


IMHO, both oil and ATF pans seem to be designed to be DIY friendly using ramps since the plugs are on the rear corner edges. I used ramps and just drain both at the same time! I consistently get 3.8-4.0 of ATF out.

Airbox.....I did the ATF fill and measuring from up top by pushing the airbox aside but not disconnecting it from the MAF since disconnecting it results in stalling.

Plastic plugs are either screw type or flathead type....user error = broken plugs. Youtube some instructions. No worry you could get replacements rather cheap online or at dealer.
 
Cant picture how you'd have enough room to work with by just pushing the box.

Was there supposed to be a crush washer on the ATF drain plug? Mine didn't have one and I didn't put one in for that reason. This was a first drain on a car I bought new.
 
My 2013 had a crush washer. Same size as the oil drain plug crush washer.
 
Cant picture how you'd have enough room to work with by just pushing the box.

Was there supposed to be a crush washer on the ATF drain plug? Mine didn't have one and I didn't put one in for that reason. This was a first drain on a car I bought new.
Theres an aluminum washer on the drain plug. The washer is painted black from factory together with the drain plug, hence many have overlooked it thinking theres no washer from factory. The same story on engine oil drain plug too and both plugs and washers are the same.

And hope you have a chance to check the actual ATF level according to official procedure from Mazdas Factory Service Manual.

just FYI, I was able to check the transmission dipstick WITHOUT having to disassemble the air intake........

I can understand why some may want to, it makes it easier, but just giving another option that it's not necessary......


first need to drop the plastic panels, for the CX-5 you DO NOT NEED to lift up the front of the car,

there is more than enough clearance.





these are the type of screws to remove, some philips, some 10mm, and some 8mm panel fasteners...




here is picture from underneath, you can easily access the dipstick and dipstick bolt:


it is reachable from underneath:








there's plenty of room to get a stubby ratchet with 10mm socket





the bolt holding down the dipstick is 10mm size:


this picture shows the dipstick can easily be removed from underneath without having to disassemble the air intake


dipstick reading, hard to tell but looks ok to me, not low not high, just in the middle.... fluid is super clean though, I have 16,000 odometer miles


as others have mentioned, Mazda design allows dirt to accumulate as shown:


dirt can get under the dipstick, I cleaned it carefully making sure dirt doesn't go down the hole:
I ripped a small piece of my detailing clay bar and used clay slowly over the dirt and the clay grabbed most of the debris,
then like Gova used a damp cleaning wipe to clean the remaining residue, worked quite well, obviously, I threw out the clay,
no way I was going to use it again for detailing, the encased debris will cause scratches.



make sure to clean off dirt on O-ring before putting it back in:



tools used:

safety glasses, stubby ratchet with 10mm socket

gloves, one of my mechanic friends gave me this tip, use old golf or batting gloves, a lot more dexterity, works great!!


panel fastener tool remover:


my trusty Worx for the underpanel 10mm scrwes, my wife thinks it looks like a gun :)


probably do drain and fill at around 35,000 miles, will do as above and measure what drains out and get a long flexible tube funnel and pour back thru the dipstick hole the same amount. I like the fact that car can be done level on the ground, and no need to remove air intake assembly; just need to remove the plastic paneling which needs to be done anyway to get to the transmission drain plug, and most of all can do it myself without going to dealer, I'm sure those monkeys would get tons of dirt into the fill hole.

also just an FYI, if you plan to drain and fill, I recommend changing the aluminum washer, thanks to yrwei52, here's the part number, Mazda 99564-1400 (same washer for the engine oil plug)



 
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