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Thread: Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

  1. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruthrj View Post
    Engine running. Easiest way seems to be removing the air box but keeping it plugged in. Run until the blue dash light goes off and check ATF stick while engine is on.
    Thanks.

    That's what I figured, although it seems "awkward" to be laying under a running vehicle..

    I've seen a couple of recommendations here for getting an ODB2 reader to get the tranny temp, but I have bought and downloaded two different software packages (TorquePro and ScanTool) and neither reads transmission temp that I can see. ScanTool has Mazda-specific PIDs for sale by model year, but they have yet to configure the package for 2019 (apparently delays on Mazda's end).

  2. #257
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    Arrow Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Avoidin Deer View Post
    I haven't seen anyone mention whether you check the ATF level with the engine running (like every car I've had with the standard accessible dipstick), or with the engine off.
    It’s been mentioned many times before. Here's the official procedure to check ATF level for CX-5:

    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Nice!

    ATF level should be at the central marker area on the dipstick at 122°F while the engine is running. Make sure to shift into all possible gears during the warm-up.

    Judging by the color of your drained ATF, I may consider another drain-and-fill if I were you.


    Attachment 219691

  3. #258
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    Been awhile but If I recall correctly:

    The Blue light turns off at 131F.
    Pro Torque app picks up coolant temp...to be used as reference temp for atf fluid.

  4. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by CX-5um View Post
    Been awhile but If I recall correctly:

    The Blue light turns off at 131F.
    Pro Torque app picks up coolant temp...to be used as reference temp for atf fluid.
    I have a temp gauge...no lights. I'd imagine one of the apps I have measures coolant temp.

    I'm still waiting for ScanTool to release the Mazda-specific PIDs for the 2019 model year ($9.99 to buy that software). They say that there's a delay on Mazda's side this year in getting them the data. I can't imagine what the problem might be...the major changes due to cylinder deactivation should have flushed through the 2018 software.

    It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.

  5. #260
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Avoidin Deer View Post
    ⋯ It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.
    In step 4.(1) of “Adjust the ATF level”, “Connect the M-MDS to the DLC-2 and display the PID TFT”, this Mazda system used by Mazda dealer displays the PID’s with many informations including engine coolant temperature and ATF temperature.

  6. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avoidin Deer View Post
    I have a temp gauge...no lights. I'd imagine one of the apps I have measures coolant temp.

    I'm still waiting for ScanTool to release the Mazda-specific PIDs for the 2019 model year ($9.99 to buy that software). They say that there's a delay on Mazda's side this year in getting them the data. I can't imagine what the problem might be...the major changes due to cylinder deactivation should have flushed through the 2018 software.

    It's weird that the instructions cite a specific temp for tranny fluid with no suggestions on how to determine it.
    Since there is no worry about the trans being over filled and you didn't do a transmission fluid replacement, you can just drive the car until the needle is at normal operating temperature and then check to see if the level falls somewhere between the marks. If it looks low then use a reader and get the trans to the exact temperature and check it. Mine has a temperature gauge too, I prefer it over a dummy light.

  7. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avoidin Deer View Post
    Thanks.

    That's what I figured, although it seems "awkward" to be laying under a running vehicle..

    I've seen a couple of recommendations here for getting an ODB2 reader to get the tranny temp, but I have bought and downloaded two different software packages (TorquePro and ScanTool) and neither reads transmission temp that I can see. ScanTool has Mazda-specific PIDs for sale by model year, but they have yet to configure the package for 2019 (apparently delays on Mazda's end).
    Pretty sure you’ll have to get it from underneath with the turbo. Wiring harness and turbo plumbing are in the way.

    I’d love to hear how you go about it if you do wind up getting it from above.

    Please keep us updated.

  8. #263
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    I did the tranny drain. Took out the air box and started engine only for it to choke up and shut down in less than 10 sec. Why does this happen since there is no fan blowing into the airbox anyway? air sensor was still attached to top of box. I broke a few of the plastic plugs holding the tranny and oil cover/ no idea how to unplug those as even a flat head screwdriver broke them to pieces.

    I let fluid drip for 2 hours or so and it was still dripping when my pitcher hit the 3.7 Quart mark. I plugged it and filled it with around 3.8 Quarts even though I could have let it drip more.

    did this for the first time on a 2015 cx-5 at 47k miles. fluid was a dark brown green hue when you put a bright flashlight to it. new fluid looked lighter green. would more fluid drain out if I elevated the back of car?

  9. #264
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    Quote Originally Posted by FirstOfficer View Post
    I did the tranny drain. Took out the air box and started engine only for it to choke up and shut down in less than 10 sec. Why does this happen since there is no fan blowing into the airbox anyway? air sensor was still attached to top of box. I broke a few of the plastic plugs holding the tranny and oil cover/ no idea how to unplug those as even a flat head screwdriver broke them to pieces.

    I let fluid drip for 2 hours or so and it was still dripping when my pitcher hit the 3.7 Quart mark. I plugged it and filled it with around 3.8 Quarts even though I could have let it drip more.

    did this for the first time on a 2015 cx-5 at 47k miles. fluid was a dark brown green hue when you put a bright flashlight to it. new fluid looked lighter green. would more fluid drain out if I elevated the back of car?

    IMHO, both oil and ATF pans seem to be designed to be DIY friendly using ramps since the plugs are on the rear corner edges. I used ramps and just drain both at the same time! I consistently get 3.8-4.0 of ATF out.

    Airbox.....I did the ATF fill and measuring from up top by pushing the airbox aside but not disconnecting it from the MAF since disconnecting it results in stalling.

    Plastic plugs are either screw type or flathead type....user error = broken plugs. Youtube some instructions. No worry you could get replacements rather cheap online or at dealer.

  10. #265
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    Cant picture how you'd have enough room to work with by just pushing the box.

    Was there supposed to be a crush washer on the ATF drain plug? Mine didn't have one and I didn't put one in for that reason. This was a first drain on a car I bought new.

  11. #266
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    My 2013 had a crush washer. Same size as the oil drain plug crush washer.

  12. #267
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    Arrow Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by FirstOfficer View Post
    Cant picture how you'd have enough room to work with by just pushing the box.

    Was there supposed to be a crush washer on the ATF drain plug? Mine didn't have one and I didn't put one in for that reason. This was a first drain on a car I bought new.
    There’s an aluminum washer on the drain plug. The washer is painted black from factory together with the drain plug, hence many have overlooked it thinking there’s no washer from factory. The same story on engine oil drain plug too and both plugs and washers are the same.

    And hope you have a chance to check the actual ATF level according to official procedure from Mazda’s Factory Service Manual.

    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat1446 View Post
    just FYI, I was able to check the transmission dipstick WITHOUT having to disassemble the air intake........

    I can understand why some may want to, it makes it easier, but just giving another option that it's not necessary......


    first need to drop the plastic panels, for the CX-5 you DO NOT NEED to lift up the front of the car,

    there is more than enough clearance.





    these are the type of screws to remove, some philips, some 10mm, and some 8mm panel fasteners...




    here is picture from underneath, you can easily access the dipstick and dipstick bolt:


    it is reachable from underneath:








    there's plenty of room to get a stubby ratchet with 10mm socket





    the bolt holding down the dipstick is 10mm size:


    this picture shows the dipstick can easily be removed from underneath without having to disassemble the air intake


    dipstick reading, hard to tell but looks ok to me, not low not high, just in the middle.... fluid is super clean though, I have 16,000 odometer miles


    as others have mentioned, Mazda design allows dirt to accumulate as shown:


    dirt can get under the dipstick, I cleaned it carefully making sure dirt doesn't go down the hole:
    I ripped a small piece of my detailing clay bar and used clay slowly over the dirt and the clay grabbed most of the debris,
    then like Gova used a damp cleaning wipe to clean the remaining residue, worked quite well, obviously, I threw out the clay,
    no way I was going to use it again for detailing, the encased debris will cause scratches.



    make sure to clean off dirt on O-ring before putting it back in:



    tools used:

    safety glasses, stubby ratchet with 10mm socket

    gloves, one of my mechanic friends gave me this tip, use old golf or batting gloves, a lot more dexterity, works great!!


    panel fastener tool remover:


    my trusty Worx for the underpanel 10mm scrwes, my wife thinks it looks like a gun


    probably do drain and fill at around 35,000 miles, will do as above and measure what drains out and get a long flexible tube funnel and pour back thru the dipstick hole the same amount. I like the fact that car can be done level on the ground, and no need to remove air intake assembly; just need to remove the plastic paneling which needs to be done anyway to get to the transmission drain plug, and most of all can do it myself without going to dealer, I'm sure those monkeys would get tons of dirt into the fill hole.

    also just an FYI, if you plan to drain and fill, I recommend changing the aluminum washer, thanks to yrwei52, here's the part number, Mazda 99564-1400 (same washer for the engine oil plug)




  13. #268
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    thanks. back to the ground I go. I didn't even check the stick level after the fill. before I did the job, I ran the car until blue light went off. then the stick showed fluid on the 122F marker line. so didn't seem like it was right in the middle. yesterday the car was shifting smoother. seemed like it fixed the cold rough shifts I had upon engine start. Lifetime fluid my ass.

  14. #269
    Registered Member Ronzuki's Avatar

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    Lifetime as long as the tranny operates...and when it no longer does, then it has hit its life's time. Our perspective and definition compared to an auto maker's...all how one perceives it (and the lawyers approved it).
    Ron
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  15. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    No. That is an ATF cooler or heat exchanger with engine coolant and ATF circulating inside.
    The diagram makes it look like a heater, rather than heat exchanger. It shows both types of fluid going in cold and coming out hot.

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