Best Brake Pads for 2016 CX5 Grand Touring

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K2500 Diesel Suburban; 2016 CX5 GT
Hi. wondering what most people are using for brakes for their CX5's. Saw the Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1623 ($34) for the fronts and Wagner QC1846 ($63) for the rears. Autozone sells the Duralast Gold ($74) or Duralast Max ($84) with lifetime warrantee. Guess I could go with the Mazda K0y1‑26‑48zc ($63) for the rears and K0Y1-33-28ZA ($78) for the fronts but some sites say they are for 2013-2016 while other say 2013-2015. Confused so I thought I would ask here. Thanks
 
If you were the type of person that is going to be doing it themselves, and keeping the vehicle for a long time, then the lifetime warrantied pads from an Autozone parts store or the like, would be the best for most frugal.

There are different ways to define what "best" is. There are pads that are quiet, pads that last a long time, pads with different friction coefficients. What is it that you are looking for in particular?


These are the part numbers I get for your 2016 CX-5 GT
K0Y13328ZA FRONT PADS CX-5

KAY02648Z REAR PADS CX-5

Link to Mazda Parts Online source for OE Part numbers.
https://wholesalesmazdaparts.net/parts/2016/Mazda/CX-5/Grand%20Touring/?siteid=218122&vehicleid=423934&section=BRAKES
 
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You will be with all that marketing guff. Ask yourself a question, if all these thermoamzing and gold platinum pish are so good, why do they never get through the door at any vehicle builders anywhere? Too good for them?

I’d buy the Mazda ones.
 
If you were the type of person that is going to be doing it themselves, and keeping the vehicle for a long time, then the lifetime warrantied pads from an Autozone parts store or the like, would be the best for most frugal.

There are different ways to define what "best" is. There are pads that are quiet, pads that last a long time, pads with different friction coefficients. What is it that you are looking for in particular?


Link to Mazda Parts Online source for OE Part numbers.
https://wholesalesmazdaparts.net/parts/2016/Mazda/CX-5/Grand%20Touring/?siteid=218122&vehicleid=423934ion=BRAKES

Just interested in your thoughts. If there are pads that are quiet, what would make them quiet and what would make others noisy? If there are pads that last a long time, what would make that possible? What would be the effect of using pads with different friction levels?
 
Just interested in your thoughts. If there are pads that are quiet, what would make them quiet and what would make others noisy? If there are pads that last a long time, what would make that possible? What would be the effect of using pads with different friction levels?

LOL !

I was more interested in hearing YOUR thoughts, since you have the most knowledge and experience on the subject. (bowdown)

I myself would prefer to stay with the high quality Mazda OEM ones like Ferodo or Akebono.

Many years ago working in auto parts stores, I used to have to warranty the "LIFETIME" brake pads. I saw some real doozies!
 
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If you were the type of person that is going to be doing it themselves, and keeping the vehicle for a long time, then the lifetime warrantied pads from an Autozone parts store or the like, would be the best for most frugal.

There are different ways to define what "best" is. There are pads that are quiet, pads that last a long time, pads with different friction coefficients. What is it that you are looking for in particular?


These are the part numbers I get for your 2016 CX-5 GT
K0Y13328ZA FRONT PADS CX-5

KAY02648Z REAR PADS CX-5

Link to Mazda Parts Online source for OE Part numbers.
https://wholesalesmazdaparts.net/parts/2016/Mazda/CX-5/Grand%20Touring/?siteid=218122&vehicleid=423934&section=BRAKES

Thank you! I would like pads that are quiet, last a long time and have great stopping power. :) I just started using the Duralast on my Suburban and the wife's truck and have no problem with them BUT they are trucks. My Mazda is still in the "new" category so switching to something other than Mazda brakes got me a little nervous. Don't want to introduce a squeaking problem where one doesn't exist now.
 
Thank you! I would like pads that are quiet, last a long time and have great stopping power. :) I just started using the Duralast on my Suburban and the wife's truck and have no problem with them BUT they are trucks. My Mazda is still in the "new" category so switching to something other than Mazda brakes got me a little nervous. Don't want to introduce a squeaking problem where one doesn't exist now.
Have you been satisfied with the OE pads on your CX-5? If so, like Anchorman said, I'd go with Mazda replacements. They put a lot of research into their choice and, even though you'll pay a little more, you'll know what you're getting. That's what I've always done with two previous Miatas and never regretted it.
 
Good advice above about using OEM pads if you're satisfied with them.I had F&R autozone duralast ceramics on my last car.They lasted 7 years and still had some life remaining when replaced.But, you almost had to stand on them in really cold weather til they warmed up.Otherwise ok braking at best.They sure wore well though.Never again.I'm satisfied with the stock pads on my cx-5 and will use mazda pads again if they didn't reformulate them introducing problems in the name of "product improvement".
 
I'm using Stoptech Street pads on the CX-5. Pretty good semi-metallic pads for daily driving. Still using OEM rotors. I'd say they are equivalent to OEM..maybe a tad better.

Using EBC pads and EBC premium rotors on the Mazda6. Noticeable improvement in stopping and resistance from fading over OEM.
 
I love some of the names - duralast and project MU (mu as in friction I suppose). There aren’t that many OE friction material suppliers in the world and yet as few as they are, they hold 100% of the worlds new vehicle brake business. There are hundreds if not thousands of aftermarket companies making pads just like there are making 12V cordless drills.

What are the reasons. Mazda and all the other manufacturers will currently be talking to their brake suppliers about models that will hit the road in 3 to 5 years. That’s where the discussion starts, with the system makers like Bosch, Ate, Advecs and Akebono and several more. They can provide the entire system of control (interfacing with Mazda’s other safety systems) and hardware. After being given the spec of the vehicle, they will propose a brake system package and what they include as friction material is very much driven by them. They will often have more than one supplier and they may choose different for front and rear. Ferodo might get it because Textar got the last business or they can guarantee capacity. There’s often little to choose between them in terms of performance or price (you’d be horrified if you knew what they pay). Then it starts, the first samples are provided for test - physical properties and dimensions, destructive tests and initial machine performance, then dynamometer testing to the very extent of overload and abuse. It seems odd to go to so much trouble so early on but as Mazda sell the car and their contract is with you, they have to demonstrate that they took every reasonable care to make sure it meets all the requirements of purchase and law.

I need to make something clear, it’s widely accepted within the vehicle industry that pad performance is no longer an issue and virtually all the development is done on refinement, alternative (either cheaper or more environmentally friendly) materials or alternative design like pads without backplates as an example. Keep this in mind for when we get to aftermarket pads.

You can have a vehicle - say a Ford and another very similar vehicle - say a GM that are very similar in weight and performance and yet when fitted with the same system and pads, one behaves impeccably and the other is an absolute dog. It’s because differences in steering and suspension pick up different vibrations or packaging differences (some calipers work fine in front or above a disc but put them in another orientation and they can be as stubborn as you like). It depends where there is room for them. For that reason they get tested on vehicles, first out on a track, then when they’ve tried to break them (notice the spelling), they go off out on the road either packaged in one of those highly disguised things you see in magazines or in a mule - a car that might look like a CX-5 but is in fact nothing of the kind if you look underneath. It’s an engineering bastard. This whole process may take years. You can do the most rigorous testing and still something gets by you - look at the sticky rear calipers. Those warranty issues can wipe out vast quantities of money so they will subject them to all kinds of abuse like extreme temperature and the shittyest of dirty wet and vibration and whatever other kind of abuse you can think of. If it’s gonna break, break before it gets out, not when they have to pay a dealer to put it right and upset a valuable customer. It takes a lot of marketing effort (expense) to coax a customer out of an Audi or a Ford and into a Mazda but you can get one out of a Mazda for free if he’s not happy. He’s gone, never to be seen again and he’s spreading the gospel to boot.

For a company to sell friction material to a vehicle manufacturer, you need plenty of resource, plenty of test facilities, plenty of sales and distribution facilities and you can be expected to take the consequences if it isn’t right. Look at that relatively small supplier that sold accelerator pedals to Toyota. There were people throwing themselves off bridges during that lot.

The bottom line is, if you are seduced by fancy packaging and convincing names like dura this and ultra that then you might be quite satisfied because for most of us moseying about they fill that gap between the caliper and the disc and they ease up at traffic lights without much drama. Let me assure you that they only exist because they are cheap. They have little resources or overheads, their labour is cheap and their back up is virtually non existent. Just like unbranded 12V cordless drill there is a market but are they as good as the big boys? No.
 
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If you were the type of person that is going to be doing it themselves, and keeping the vehicle for a long time, then the lifetime warrantied pads from an Autozone parts store or the like, would be the best for most frugal.

There are different ways to define what "best" is. There are pads that are quiet, pads that last a long time, pads with different friction coefficients. What is it that you are looking for in particular?


These are the part numbers I get for your 2016 CX-5 GT
K0Y13328ZA FRONT PADS CX-5

KAY02648Z REAR PADS CX-5

Link to Mazda Parts Online source for OE Part numbers.
https://wholesalesmazdaparts.net/parts/2016/Mazda/CX-5/Grand%20Touring/?siteid=218122&vehicleid=423934&section=BRAKES



Would you know if there is a difference between
K0Y13328ZA and K0Y13328ZA-MV ?

Thanks
Steve
 
I tend to agree that OEM pads are safe bet, especially when it comes to Mazdas. I've worked with Japanese engineers and was very impressed with their testing thoroughness. That being said, I must also mention that I am running Hawk HP pads on my MX5. They are a bit more aggressive than OEM but sometimes make a slight squealing sound that is low-key and for short duration. When the rotors need replacing, I will get J-hook style slotted versions.
I've tried a few variations of rotors and pads when designing rotors, back 5 years ago, so preferences were developed during that period.
 
Theres no image for the MVs but the expensive set appears to include the accessories which makes them good value if they do.
 
I tend to agree that OEM pads are safe bet, especially when it comes to Mazdas. I've worked with Japanese engineers and was very impressed with their testing thoroughness. That being said, I must also mention that I am running Hawk HP pads on my MX5. They are a bit more aggressive than OEM but sometimes make a slight squealing sound that is low-key and for short duration. When the rotors need replacing, I will get J-hook style slotted versions.
I've tried a few variations of rotors and pads when designing rotors, back 5 years ago, so preferences were developed during that period.

It’s surprising - you could cut some brake pad shaped hardwood and it would work providing it didn’t get too hot. For the purpose of Going down the shops, you could get away with some amazingly crude pads. It’s how these Chinesium cheapies get away with it - for the most part, they only need to “be there”. However, I doubt they’d last long on the OE approval business. If you compressed a very well dispersed 70% steel wool and a thermo setting resin and baked them for 4 hours, you’d have a useable pad. If you want racing pads, you take a normal pad and bake it twice.
 
AKEBONO ACT 1623 - FRONT
AKEBONO ACT 1624 - REAR

+ their guides are far superior than everything else.
 
Everything is a compromise.

Good stopping power, low noise, low dust, low cost, long life... probably only 2 or 3 of these attributes apply to any one pad.
 
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