Recently i replaced the radiator on my 03 P5. It was running hot before and the radiator split its top. Now my issue is that jt starts puking after it warms up. I have replaced the thermostat put a new cap and the last thing i did was replace the belt. What I find weird is that it doesn't read hot it's not overheating but it starts puking his guts out even at freeway speeds when it's nice and cool out so once I see it puking i turn the heater on and it's cold air coming out it's still reading normal temperature but it's puking its guts out and then when it's empty then it gets hot but by then I'm already pulled over
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Im at a loss
- Thread starter Jimbonutz
- Start date
- :
- 02 protege5 ES 5dr
Is your belt okay ?
I just lost my alternator belt at speed and when I got to a garage had boiled out all my coolant. ( Alternator belt drives the water pump as well ).
I just lost my alternator belt at speed and when I got to a garage had boiled out all my coolant. ( Alternator belt drives the water pump as well ).
You've got an airlock.
You need to refill your rad, start your car, put the heat on full blast and leave your rad cap off.
Once the thermostat opens up, you'll see movement in the rad cap hole... Then a bunch of bubbles will gurgle up and you keep topping up the fluid.
Pumping the top rad hose can help work the bubbles out.
Your heater core is full of air and you need the heater on and the rad cap off to move the air out.
Do this until the gurgling stops the fans are running and the top rad hose starts getting hot.
Fill the overflow tank to the full hot line and put your rad cap back on and you're done.
Let's hope you didn't warp your head... It doesn't take too much.
You need to refill your rad, start your car, put the heat on full blast and leave your rad cap off.
Once the thermostat opens up, you'll see movement in the rad cap hole... Then a bunch of bubbles will gurgle up and you keep topping up the fluid.
Pumping the top rad hose can help work the bubbles out.
Your heater core is full of air and you need the heater on and the rad cap off to move the air out.
Do this until the gurgling stops the fans are running and the top rad hose starts getting hot.
Fill the overflow tank to the full hot line and put your rad cap back on and you're done.
Let's hope you didn't warp your head... It doesn't take too much.
Pcb thanks i had done that just a bit ago. I ended up taking the rad back and exchanged it and i did the bleeding proces. I just hope i didn't ruin the head. Im getting a ruff idle and a blinking check engine light. I out the scanner and u got a P0303. So ill check that misfire on #3 tomorrow. Rad is holding pressure so knocked that off and crossing my fingers. I dont feel like replacing a head gasket
Air pocket or the head gasket is blown.
Just wondering...
Wouldn't a blown head gasket start spewing fluid right from startup without needing to warm up first ??
Yea im not sure. It idled terrible this morning. By I he ti.e i got to work it was running way hot. Last night a little white smoke from the tail pipe. And right now i went down the street get some grub and still runs terrible above 4500 it runs great. Temperature was fine but the upper rad hose hard as a rock and hot and bottom was ice cold but not collapse
Just wondering...
Wouldn't a blown head gasket start spewing fluid right from startup without needing to warm up first ??
Not necessarily, leakage will be worse as things expand.