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Thread: CX-5 tire busted

  1. #1
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    CX-5 tire busted

    Had a bad tear in one of the tires and has to be replaced. Tire shop suggests replacing 2 as other tires are different and 17k miles old.
    Questions for experts:
    - Should I replace two if I get the same OEM brand/model? ~$140 per tire
    - If I replace two, can I upgrade these two to 245/50 instead to current 225/25? Diameter comes to the same number for both and 245/50 has more and better options like: BFGOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S at $172 per
    - Should I try getting a somewhat old but same tire and use that instead? Expect to get one at $100 from a private party.
    - Or go with a new pair of the original size 225/55 like Continental TrueContact at $190 and try to sell the remaining good for now OEM tire?

  2. #2
    Registrierte Benutzer Chris_Top_Her's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agog View Post
    Had a bad tear in one of the tires and has to be replaced. Tire shop suggests replacing 2 as other tires are different and 17k miles old.
    Questions for experts:
    - Should I replace two if I get the same OEM brand/model? ~$140 per tire
    - If I replace two, can I upgrade these two to 245/50 instead to current 225/25? Diameter comes to the same number for both and 245/50 has more and better options like: BFGOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S at $172 per
    - Should I try getting a somewhat old but same tire and use that instead? Expect to get one at $100 from a private party.
    - Or go with a new pair of the original size 225/55 like Continental TrueContact at $190 and try to sell the remaining good for now OEM tire?
    Sounds like you are trying to be thrifty. Honestly if you are willing to buy a used tire might as well go with lionheart/lexani or one of the other reputable Chinese tire brand. You could replace all four really for the price of 2 of those continentals. https://www.walmart.com/search/?cat_...hProductResult YOu can run 245's on the OEM wheel

    Lionheart and Lexani are reputable chinese brand tires.
    Pretty sure I've seen members putting 245s on the OEM wheel, but don't quote me on that.

  3. #3
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    Yes, don't want to spend much at this point but doesn't mean I would go with lower quality either. Also if I get 2 new good tires, it will be a mismatch now and whenever it is time to change those. 1 used was an option because it lets me change 1 at this time and then all four can be changed after 17-18k more miles. If I had to change all 4, I would have gone for one of top rated in OEM size which are Michelin ltx, continental true contact or pirelli p7.

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    Also another question, would the tpms sensor break? It was a bad cut (rapid to flat) and I had probably driven a mile on a complete flat.

  5. #5
    Registered Member SonicBoy's Avatar

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    My opinion is you'd damage the rim first before hitting the TPMS but it depends on how the rubber moved while driving flat.

    Best to get it into a reputable tire shop to have it inspected as no one will be able to tell without physically seeing it.

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    Do you mean having a broken TPMS in the wheel for a 2015 CX5? Your year doesn't have them in the wheel.

  7. #7
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    The rubber on your original tires is at least 3 years old already. And it's well known that the OEM tires don't last very long. At 17K miles, you are getting closer to them wearing out. If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and get 4 new quality tires and be done with it. Short term pain, long term gain IMO.

  8. #8
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by minnesotaart View Post
    The rubber on your original tires is at least 3 years old already. And it's well known that the OEM tires don't last very long. At 17K miles, you are getting closer to them wearing out. If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and get 4 new quality tires and be done with it. Short term pain, long term gain IMO.
    with minnesotaart

    I am very thrifty... but honestly after seeing and feeling the difference in performance and noise after replacing the oem tires myself, I would lean this direction also.
    Mazda's I have owned over the years.
    80' Mazda GLC SPORT MT - sold
    81' Mazda 626 DX MT - sold
    81' Mazda 626 LX AT - sold
    82' Mazda 626 DX MT - sold
    82' Mazda 626 LX AT - sold
    85' Mazda 626 LX MT - sold
    87' Mazda 626 GT Turbo MT - sold
    85' Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE MT- sold
    87' Mazda RX-7 Turbo 2 MT - sold
    91' Mazda Protege LX MT - sold
    92' Mazda MX-5 Miata MT - sold
    93' Mazda MX-3 GS-V6 Special Edition MT - sold
    00' Mazda 626 LX-V6 MT - sold
    02.5' Mazda Protege5 MT - sold
    92' Mazda MX-5 Miata MT - sold
    06' Mazda 5 Touring AT - sold
    13' Mazda CX-5 Touring AT - sold
    14' Mazda 3i Grand Touring MT - sold
    15' Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD AT - sold
    03' Mazda Protege5 AT - sold
    16.5' Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD AT - current
    09' Mazda Mazdaspeed3 GT - current

  9. #9
    Underutilized Member shadonoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by minnesotaart View Post
    The rubber on your original tires is at least 3 years old already. And it's well known that the OEM tires don't last very long. At 17K miles, you are getting closer to them wearing out. If it were me, I'd just bite the bullet and get 4 new quality tires and be done with it. Short term pain, long term gain IMO.
    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    with minnesotaart

    I am very thrifty... but honestly after seeing and feeling the difference in performance and noise after replacing the oem tires myself, I would lean this direction also.
    I agree with both, and I'm so cheap I squeak.

  10. #10
    Registered Member ceric's Avatar

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    I just replaced OE tires on my Mazda6 with BFGOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S.
    Love them. After that, I knew OE tires are bad.
    Bought at tirerack.com, shipped them to WheelWorks, and had them installed them.

    I won't go staggering. You will lost the flexibility to do tire rotation. Tires wear out much sooner.
    Front tires usually wear the outer edge (due to turning), while the rear tire wear the inner edges (due to camber).
    Rotating them front-rear is perfect for longer tire life span.
    2016 Mazda6 iGT + Tech Pkg
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicBoy View Post
    My opinion is you'd damage the rim first before hitting the TPMS but it depends on how the rubber moved while driving flat.

    Best to get it into a reputable tire shop to have it inspected as no one will be able to tell without physically seeing it.
    That was my concern as well. I is not evident to me but I wanted to go to Costco or America's Tires hoping the could inspect it thoroughly.
    It seems the recommendation is to replace all (at least 2) to new good ones. I had three in mind for the OEM size: TrueContact, LTX and P7 which seem to rated at top in https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...=1#post6567781 as well. Should I also consider GT RT43?

    Now I remember seeing that it was an ABS based TPMS system which deceived me by not alerting immediately after the cut.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceric View Post
    I just replaced OE tires on my Mazda6 with BFGOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S.
    Love them. After that, I knew OE tires are bad.
    Nice, sad these don't come in 225/55/19.

    Rotating them front-rear is perfect for longer tire life span.
    Question: can't two pairs of same wheels be rotated?
    I would expect: F(ront)L(eft),FR,RL,RR to rotate like:
    1st time:
    FL -> RR
    FR -> RL
    RL -> FR
    RR -> FL

    2nd time:
    FL -> RL
    FR -> RR
    RL -> FL
    RR -> FR

    unless tires are directional, am I missing something? Even with directional ones, #2 pattern should give balancing between front and rear tire. Yes, having 1 driffernt tire is pretty bad for a good rotation scheme.

  13. #13
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    Read the reason
    " the need to keep deeper treaded tires on the rear axle to resist oversteer conditions caused by wet road hydroplaning is important. Unfortunately this precludes the future possibility of ever rotating tires.

    Once a pair of tires has been installed, the only way to escape being forced to drive on mismatched tires continually is to install a complete set of new tires (especially on front-wheel drive vehicles)."

    It is basically related to "why newer tires should be in rear" and starting way ahead of fronts, they will remain newer and never go in front. That is true for the set of 4 as well but the difference is not that much if those are rotated regularly.

    BTW what is the difference between performance, touring and grand touring all season tires? Which one of these categories provides the best traction, handling, ride and braking combination? I'll definitely trade tread wear in favor of these.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by agog View Post
    BTW what is the difference between performance, touring and grand touring all season tires? Which one of these categories provides the best traction, handling, ride and braking combination? I'll definitely trade tread wear in favor of these.
    The answer somewhat depends on where you live. Are you in the south where it never snows? Or in the north where it snows a lot. Or in between?

  15. #15
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    NorCal with no ice

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