Which 0W20 Oil Brand?

I wished you guys would've warned me dammit!! LOL

The oem filter's black paint is stripped off a bit and is super smooth at this point. This tool will do the trick considering you guys had good luck.

Penzoil Platinum high mileage 0w20. I didn't know I purchased the high mileage version till' later.

Sorry friend, I honestly didn't think I'd need them, but ended up I did. I bought them for the first oil change I did expecting the dealer installed filter to be on too tight, but I was able to get that one off by hand. Which perplexes me as I installed this filter by hand and hand tightened (no tools), yet I couldn't take it back off by hand. (drunk)

What's the difference between regular and high mileage? The additives?
 
Sorry friend, I honestly didn't think I'd need them, but ended up I did. I bought them for the first oil change I did expecting the dealer installed filter to be on too tight, but I was able to get that one off by hand. Which perplexes me as I installed this filter by hand and hand tightened (no tools), yet I couldn't take it back off by hand. (drunk)

What's the difference between regular and high mileage? The additives?


Maybe it has something to do with the cycles of heat and cold over time tightening it.

Didn't even know there was a high mileage version until I threw the bottle away. I made the focus on getting the important numbers right...the 0 and 20 that I forget the other print.)

My recollection is the only difference between regular and HM version oils are the HM version has stuff to prevent seal leaks.
 
=ColoradoDriver;6596043Which perplexes me as I installed this filter by hand and hand tightened (no tools), yet I couldn't take it back off by hand. (drunk)

Very common due to heat/cold thermal cycles. Bolts do the same thing.
 
Conventional wisdom says "yes".
I'd like to see some evidence for either side of the argument.
It could be that they have a long shelf life, but start to "die" when in use.
It's most likely that different additives have different "life cycles".

Check out BITOG and you'll find several VOAs/UOAs of people running 20+ year old oil and the oil held up just fine.

Why the time based max interval then?

This has to do with the combustion process and the presence of gas and moisture. Oil sealed in a bottle and stationary oil that is in an oil pan with exposure to gas and moisture are two very different things.

coloradodriver said:
What's the difference between regular and high mileage? The additives?

Typically a HM oil will have seal conditioners (different than seal swellers) and will be a tad thicker than an equivalent non-hm oil. As an example, Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic 0w20 has a KV40 of 42.2 as compared to Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 0w20 which has a KV40 of 42.8.
 
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Did oil change on Saturday.....but oem filter would not budge. Used my filter wrench cap and would not budge. (dealership installed really tight!!)

Had to put new oil in and just run with old filter....will do so for a couple thousand miles.

Did research and apparently oil filter "pliers" are the last filter removal tool you'll ever need. Purchased the next day.

eb9f0281-35d7-4a9c-a5d5-64e96a7d1389_1.05eb9f83b04845dd37594a39e78f2e6d.jpeg
Actually this type of oil filter tool recommended by tomcat1446 is better than the "plier" style tool as many times you'll find there's no space for the long plier to maneuver.

just did my first oil change, and agreed with other CX-5 owners : the easiest oil job ever.
one question, did anyone do this without ramps ? I tried but there wasn't enough space for me....

only hiccup was I had a very hard time getting the old aluminum crush washer off the drain plug flange, it was really stuck on there, I had to use an xacto knife blade to separate the old crush washer from the drain plug.

note: I can easily see for any first timer to think that there is no crush washer or if they lost the crush washer when it's actually there stuck on the plug flange, I thought the same thing it looked like one piece and the crush washer was missing, but when I compared the new crush washer supplied by Med center Mazda versus the drain plug, I can clearly see the crush washer stuck on there. I used a miniature flat blade screwdriver but that didn't work so I used an Xacto knife to get that damn thing off. I hope no one doubled up on the crush washers thinking the original crush washer was part of the drain plug.

everything was exactly as other posters have said, drain plug is a 8mm hex socket type, so you'll need an 8mm allen key to loosen the plug, and make sure it is inserted all the way into the drain plug before turning. I recommend using a high quality high torque type, don't use those you find at dollar stores, I brought mine from McMaster, it is very high quality made by Wera Tools

McMaster p/n 57185A28 $2.54
https://www.mcmaster.com/#57185a28/=14t9trr
2ptxq8g.jpg


Also, I used Lisle 63600 oil filter tool, highly recommend this, it's idiot proof, only works one way (allows you to loosen only, when installing new filter, hand tighten only don't use wrench) https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
2aj7xw9.jpg


like others, I decided to stick with what came with the car and use Mazda moly oil bought from our forum sponsor Med Mazda sold as a set: 5 qt. 0W-20 moly oil, Mazda oil filter, and crush washer

not sure if it matters, but I also pre-filled the new filter with new oil just to make sure when I re-start car there's no oil flow void....
1ush.jpg



with regards to crush washer, I noticed there was a smooth stamped side and a sharp edge burr side due to the stamping process, I made sure the smooth side is up against the oil tank to prevent scratching /rusting
zjh6bb.jpg


for those interested, here are the p/n's off the packing list:
oil filter : PE01-14-302A
crush washer: 9956-41-400
 
I actually went out and purchased that type of tool at AutoZone....^63600 oil filter tool. Did not work for me since the OEM filter was on too tight and too smooth after my oil filter cap tool smoothed out the flat edges. It could not offer traction so it kept spinning. My filter was that stuck.

Watching YouTube vids, the oil filter pliers bite into (crush into if needed) the filter to get a firm grip.

That said, I now have 3 oil filter tools to my arsenal :)
 
Actually this type of oil filter tool recommended by tomcat1446 is better than the "plier" style tool as many times you'll find there's no space for the long plier to maneuver.


I agree. There is really not a whole lot of room to maneuver large pliers in that space.

In addition, the wrench I have which is the same as the pic has a slightly angled head which really helped to get a good position on the filter.
 
I actually went out and purchased that type of tool at AutoZone....^63600 oil filter tool. Did not work for me since the OEM filter was on too tight and too smooth after my oil filter cap tool smoothed out the flat edges. It could not offer traction so it kept spinning. My filter was that stuck.

Watching YouTube vids, the oil filter pliers bite into (crush into if needed) the filter to get a firm grip.

That said, I now have 3 oil filter tools to my arsenal :)

In cases like that some folded over sandpaper between the wrench and the filter is just enough grip to get the job done.
 
In cases like that some folded over sandpaper between the wrench and the filter is just enough grip to get the job done.

Rubber (like a piece of inner tube) is often even better.

Once many years ago, I didn't have a wrench, couldn't get the filter off, so I impaled it clear thru with a large screwdriver and used that for a lever! That was back when there was so much room you could climb into the engine compartment to work.
 
Rubber (like a piece of inner tube) is often even better.

Once many years ago, I didn't have a wrench, couldn't get the filter off, so I impaled it clear thru with a large screwdriver and used that for a lever! That was back when there was so much room you could climb into the engine compartment to work.

Rubber would indeed work very well. The old screwdriver trick is another one but I would worry nowadays as a lot of filters are almost soda pop cans. Channel locks are another good one.
 
Rubber would indeed work very well. The old screwdriver trick is another one but I would worry nowadays as a lot of filters are almost soda pop cans. Channel locks are another good one.

Yeah that crossed my mind and figured I did not want to deal with a "ripped" up filter. Did the best logical thing and called it a night. Filled with new oil and used car next day.

I keep forgetting to buy me one of these
bf8357ff-eced-4bdd-8239-68d8c3431ff2_1.26b39afa95320dc3529c3c8f33dbbb7b.png
 
Ok, let me clarify. In those VOAs and UOAs you'll see that the additive levels are fine.

But many [most?] of today's additives weren't around 20 years ago, so the 20 year old oil tested could not have contained the same, or maybe even similar, additives. 0W-20, SM and GF-5 didn't even exist 20 years ago. I'm wondering how those tests can apply today's oils.

Just to be sure I understand what you're saying, you're citing tests of oil that was on the shelf for 20 years, then used and analyzed?
 
But many [most?] of today's additives weren't around 20 years ago..."
That's not entirely true. With the exception of Moly and Titanium, most of the additives (that are picked up in a VOA or UOA) are the same.

Just to be sure I understand what you're saying, you're citing tests of oil that was on the shelf for 20 years, then used and analyzed?
Yes, that is correct. Below are some examples.

44 Year Old Quaker State 10w40.

20 Year Old Pennzoil Performax 5w30.

5 Year Old (in sump) Mobil1 10w30.

Excluding the first sample, the oils held up just fine. Even in the first sample, this was due to the type of driving and severely extended OCI, evidence of this can be found with the increased wear metals and higher fuel dilution which reduced the flashpoint and lowered the viscosity to almost being out of range. With that being said, these samples provide evidence that oil (when stored properly) doesn't go bad.
 
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That's not entirely true. With the exception of Moly and Titanium, most of the additives (that are picked up in a VOA or UOA) are the same.


Yes, that is correct. Below are some examples.

44 Year Old Quaker State 10w40.

20 Year Old Pennzoil Performax 5w30.

5 Year Old (in sump) Mobil1 10w30.

Excluding the first sample, the oils held up just fine. Even in the first sample, this was due to the type of driving and severely extended OCI, evidence of this can be found with the increased wear metals and higher fuel dilution which reduced the flashpoint and lowered the viscosity to almost being out of range. With that being said, these samples provide evidence that oil (when stored properly) doesn't go bad.

Oils are better nowadays, though. MUCH has improved. It may not show up in a Blackstone, but it is much improved. That said, the older stuff isn't as bad as some people claim, either.
 
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