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Thread: Which 0W20 Oil Brand?

  1. #76
    Registered Member Anchorman's Avatar

    2018 CX-5 SportNav 2.2 diesel auto - Sonic Silver

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    Socket is best. 2.6 inch 14 sided.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #77
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    2017 Mazda 6 Sport

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anchorman View Post
    Socket is best. 2.6 inch 14 sided.
    do you have oil and filter change docs for the 2.5l? I'm just curious if the torque specs are the same

  3. #78
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunhillmc View Post
    do you have oil and filter change docs for the 2.5l? I'm just curious if the torque specs are the same
    I believe the only difference between the 2.0L and 2.5L for oil changes is the amount of oil used.
    2014 CX-5 Touring AWD | Jet Black Mica - 74k miles
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  4. #79
    Registered Member RepeatMazda's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by shadonoz View Post
    But many [most?] of today's additives weren't around 20 years ago..."
    That's not entirely true. With the exception of Moly and Titanium, most of the additives (that are picked up in a VOA or UOA) are the same.

    Just to be sure I understand what you're saying, you're citing tests of oil that was on the shelf for 20 years, then used and analyzed?
    Yes, that is correct. Below are some examples.

    44 Year Old Quaker State 10w40.

    20 Year Old Pennzoil Performax 5w30.

    5 Year Old (in sump) Mobil1 10w30.

    Excluding the first sample, the oils held up just fine. Even in the first sample, this was due to the type of driving and severely extended OCI, evidence of this can be found with the increased wear metals and higher fuel dilution which reduced the flashpoint and lowered the viscosity to almost being out of range. With that being said, these samples provide evidence that oil (when stored properly) doesn't go bad.
    Last edited by RepeatMazda; 06-19-2018 at 09:57 PM.
    2018 Giulia Ti Sport
    • 2.0l Turbo - 2k miles - Factory fill & filter

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    • 2.5l I4 - 49k miles - SynPower w/ MaxLife 0w20 - PureOne - 8k/1yr

  5. #80
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    CX5 2.5L AWD

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    Quote Originally Posted by RepeatMazda View Post
    That's not entirely true. With the exception of Moly and Titanium, most of the additives (that are picked up in a VOA or UOA) are the same.


    Yes, that is correct. Below are some examples.

    44 Year Old Quaker State 10w40.

    20 Year Old Pennzoil Performax 5w30.

    5 Year Old (in sump) Mobil1 10w30.

    Excluding the first sample, the oils held up just fine. Even in the first sample, this was due to the type of driving and severely extended OCI, evidence of this can be found with the increased wear metals and higher fuel dilution which reduced the flashpoint and lowered the viscosity to almost being out of range. With that being said, these samples provide evidence that oil (when stored properly) doesn't go bad.
    Oils are better nowadays, though. MUCH has improved. It may not show up in a Blackstone, but it is much improved. That said, the older stuff isn't as bad as some people claim, either.

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lbear View Post
    Very common due to heat/cold thermal cycles. Bolts do the same thing.
    I don't know about rubber gaskets, but I do know about mechanical interfaces. AAC got into a pickle over their replacement suppressor mount designs, as they torqued down two 45-ish degree surfaces against each other, which can require about 25% more torque than initial, to remove. This coupled with carbon/copper welding led to a bunch of stuck cans in testing. I've long accepted that you will need a bit more beans off than you used on, regardless of interface. Taper surfaces are worse (and I presume gaskets and compressible interfaces are similar).

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