2017 speaker change - WARNING

Do you have a close-up picture on the back side (magnet) of OEM speaker so that we can read the imprint on specs and part #?

OEM non-Bose 6" door speaker is a full-range dual-cone speaker and your new speaker is a "woofer". I hope you feel no loss on high notes for your hearing preference.

No detailed pic - didn't care enough about it to take one. It says 25W 4Ohm made in Thailand.

In the OEM system with the tweeters the door speakers are full range, but the highs are handled by the OEM tweeter which is ran in parallel. Basically a cheap add on. In this configuration the highs are intended to be coming from the tweeter. Dual cone is the absolute cheapest you can get for a speaker and bare minimum in terms of performance.

I replaced the entire front speaker system with a component set - that being a pair of matched tweeters and woofers with a much higher quality and finely tuned crossover for the front speaker system.

I have lost no performance at all - just a drastic improvement. The new front speaker set has made a world of a difference, but this thread is about the pressure sensor in the doors and how the speaker works with that system. I posted my installation method as it retains the inner door seal just as good as OEM so as not to compromise the system which Anchorman has (thankfully) given us the heads up on.
 
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On the same note as above , do you plan to change the A pillar tweeters too!
Ditto. Where the crossover (come with your component speakers, not sure if it's a circuit board or just a capacitor) to be located?

I hope you can post a write-up with pictures you have in How-To section even just a repost. The info and pictures you provided are valuable and they'd be lost in later date if your posts stay under wrong topic.

BTW, thanks for the info on OEM non-Bose front door speaker.
 
this thread is about the pressure sensor in the doors and how the speaker works with that system. I posted my installation method as it retains the inner door seal just as good as OEM so as not to compromise the system which Anchorman has (thankfully) given us the heads up on.

Agree with you fully. I used the original speaker plastic mounts/frame just the way you did. I even placed a circular rubber seal (the ones used for window sealing) between the new speaker and the original plastic frame/mount, making it air tight. So it does not worsen the air door card seal in any way. And that was before Anchorman came out with his warning. I was careful with the seal because I did not want to loose bas performance of the speakers. The sound improvement has been very rewarding.
 
Ditto. Where the crossover (come with your component speakers, not sure if it's a circuit board or just a capacitor) to be located?

I hope you can post a write-up with pictures you have in How-To section even just a repost. The info and pictures you provided are valuable and they'd be lost in later date if your posts stay under wrong topic.

BTW, thanks for the info on OEM non-Bose front door speaker.

When I get some time I will post all the pics I took in another thread.
 
thanks for the documents.

1 ohm speaker? That is insane. how can anyone put aftermarket speakers without an amp? You must be severely underpowering the average 4 ohm aftermarket speaker on the stock amp.

Unusual, but I wouldn't say insane. You would not want to install aftermarket speakers without an amp, because the Blose EQ is built into the amplifier. You would not want that with any speakers. Four ohm woofers would not get as much current (thus power) from the Blose amp as the 1 ohm speaker, but whether they got enough power would depend on their sensitivity.
 
Hi Anchorman,
I have a CX9 non-bose (2017) and have ordered new dash and front door speakers and Metra speakers adaptors and cables. I was going to send it to an audio shop to fits until I saw your warning.

1. Is the switch you are referring to part of the harness that connects to the speaker frame?

The installs I have seen have cut the cone out of the old speaker and droped the new speaker into the original mounting resulting in harness and speaker remaining unchanged.
I was hoping to use a new Metra speaker adaptor and Metra Mazda connectors. Same size etc as original. The main difference and hence my concern is where the speaker wire connects to the speaker mounting plate. They may not be identical to original.

Many thanks
 
Ahh... this guy. I snapped a photo with the door open because it's all I could see. assumed it was the proximity key sensor though.

211nsyg.jpg


Either way... cool system

What is the round piece next to it at the right?
Great thread!
 
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