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Thread: TAU - Tuner Amplifier Unit, Location & Details?

  1. #1
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    TAU - Tuner Amplifier Unit, Location & Details?

    Asking from my experience with stereos in past Mazdas.

    I've decided I'm changing my front speakers and looking at adding a compact under-seat subwoofer.

    I do not want to bust out any windows, too old for that now, just want my music clearer with a fuller range with zero compromise on trunk space. If I can get to OEM Bose level performance or to match what's in our Chrysler Pacifica I'm golden.

    Front speakers will be Polk DB6502 components. Woofer and tweeter mounted in OEM locations. Plan to butcher the OEM woofers to use as a mount for the new speaker as others have done.

    "Sub" - considering Kenwood KSC-SW11 under the passenger seat.



    I've found a couple of threads which will be very helpful for getting to the door speakers - thanks to those who have posted.



    Onto the Q's:

    I have not been able to locate a service manual. Can anyone confirm where the TAU (Tuner Amplifier Unit) is located? I believe previous model was in the kick panel or above the kick panel beside the glove box?
    Secondary: A pin out on that unit? As I need to tap into existing for the sub I'm looking to go in educated. (Or if I can be pointed to a service manual that'd be swell :-))

    Also curious if the PAC-MAZOEM2 will work to avoid any splicing at all - I know some have used it in previous 3's and CX-5's. If the TAU has the same pin-out it should work just the same.

    - I've found an OEM speaker terminal adapter for the door wiring harnesses, anyone know of one for the tweeter or what the tweeter harness looks like?
    - Any tricks to pulling the A pillar, other than the tether?
    - Anyone mounted crossovers in the 17/18 yet? If so, where'd you go with them?

    If you have any other valuable info, I'm all ears.

  2. #2
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    Look at this thread. It tells you quite a bit about the door speakers, the A pillar and the tweeters.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...e-in-CX-5-2017

    Do not mount a sub until you have listened to the sound after the Polk door speaker conversion. This unit is base heavy and I do not know if you really need a sub. My 4 Hertz 6.5 inch coaxials on the doors produce quite a lot of base. The original tweeters are very weak and need getting rid off. In spite of the coaxials I feel that the upper end needs some improvement and clarity. Perhaps the base heaviness has some thing to do with it and therefore, I am planning to change the tweeters too. The original door speaker mount already has a connector so you can use it, if using the original mount. No need for new connectors.

  3. #3
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    Saw that thread, it's one of the ones I was referring to. And now we're talking about the same thing in 2 different spots ;-)

    I've already committed to replacing the whole front setup so the stock tweeters will be going when I do the doors.

    The purpose of using the aftermarket connector is, if installing the crossover in the doors, I can tap into the OEM tweeter and woofer wiring in the doors. From what I've seen the tweeter is running off of the same woofer connector and it just means I can avoid having the OEM wiring. Also gives me a spot to patch in a bass-blocker for a x-over without hacking OEM wiring. The service manual would help me confirm this, but I don't have it.

    It's also why I'm asking about the TAU.

    If I can get the pin out at the TAU, then I can choose to patch into OEM wiring there for the doors and use the OEM speaker connector and run new wiring to the tweeters, if I can fish it, and mount the x-overs under the dash. If I use the PAC-MAZ OEM amp interface (if it works) I can do all of this without snipping a single OEM wire :-)

    This is pretty much why I'm asking about the TAU. So I can figure out if I want to mount x-overs under the dash or in the doors.

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  5. #5
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    Arrow TAU - Tuner Amplifier Unit, Location & Details?

    Quote Originally Posted by Studum View Post
    ⋯ The purpose of using the aftermarket connector is, if installing the crossover in the doors, I can tap into the OEM tweeter and woofer wiring in the doors. From what I've seen the tweeter is running off of the same woofer connector and it just means I can avoid having the OEM wiring. Also gives me a spot to patch in a bass-blocker for a x-over without hacking OEM wiring. The service manual would help me confirm this, but I don't have it.
    You do have non-Bose 6-speaker setup right? OEM speaker setup on yours has no cross-over and the door-speaker is not a "woofer". Your OEM door speaker is a 6" full-range dual-paper-cone speaker and you should consider the same "full-range" 6" 2-way coaxial speaker for replacement. And I agree with raj55 that don't consider a sub-woofer, especially a compact sub, until you have listened to the sound of your replacement door speakers. See my post in another thread.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martyd View Post
    Where's the frikkin like button!

    Thank you sir! if it's in there I'll find it :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    You do have non-Bose 6-speaker setup right? OEM speaker setup on yours has no cross-over and the door-speaker is not a "woofer". Your OEM door speaker is a 6" full-range dual-paper-cone speaker and you should consider the same "full-range" 6" 2-way coaxial speaker for replacement. And I agree with raj55 that don't consider a sub-woofer, especially a compact sub, until you have listened to the sound of your replacement door speakers. See my post in another thread.
    Don't want to post the same thing twice... but plan is in motion.

    OEM tweeter has a crossover (in place as a cpacitor). New speakers have a crossover to separate tweeter / woofer.

    The OEM door speaker is a woofer, just not a sub woofer. It's the speaker in the system that outputs the low frequencies.

    Full range replacement isn't needed with a component set, which will always sound better than coaxials when comparing same speakers in the same line / class.

    I'm adding a compact sub because I know what to expect from the door speakers alone and that it won't be what I want it to be without the sub. My goal is to get to OEM premium-audio sound quality without the OEM premium audio price. The speakers I've chosen will be an upgrade over stock and the compact sub should be comparable to the Bose OEM sub. Again, not looking to blow the windows. Just more low end than the 6" door speakers will give up and the independent tuneability to my tastes that a systems of separate components provides.

    With my install plan I will be able to independently adjust bass volume and X-over vs rest of the system, be able to pick an x-over for the interior speakers (if I choose to put ones in via bass blockers), and be able to adjust the tweeter volume separately from the door woofers via Polk's X-over settings.

    Should be a nice upgrade for <$500 (CAN)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martyd View Post
    Cheers good sir. I didn't think to search for workshop manual. I was searching for "service manual". Lost in translation...

    And with that, for those who may be looking in the future, there is a TAU and it is in the same spot beside the glovebox / right side kick area. Not able to confirm pin-outs right now - but looks promising. I've got good feelings about this :-)


  9. #9
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    Happy to have helped you. Good luck.

  10. #10
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    keep me updated and let me know how the speaker install went and what you did.

  11. #11
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    any update to this thread? this TAU is applicable for only Bose system or non Bose as well?

  12. #12
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    System is in and running for the past few months. I actually just added android auto as well and the whole system now suits my needs.

    New front components are running off of stock amplifier.

    Here's a link to my speaker install:
    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...ose&highlight=

    Under seat "sub" installed under front passenger seat. It was very simple once the PAC was installed.

    I have non-bose. TAU is still in the kick / right of the glove box. I used a PAC on the TAU to get low-level RCA output for the sub.

    The PAC harness is also where I did all my cutting and splicing. Everything is reversible. X-overs are up in the dash to the right of the glove box. OEM wiring to door speaker from X-over. New speaker cable ran from X-overs to tweeters in pillars.

    Front speakers improved clarity and control. Much happier with the tweeters and adjust ability.

    Don't expect miracles from the under seat sub. I only went that way because I was not willing to give up any trunk room and I wanted cheap / easy for now. Just something to help. It's filled in for lower to low/mid volume levels but quickly falls flat on it's face as the volume gets into the higher end of the spectrum. That's fine for me, my ear-damaging days are behind me. One day I may look at going back to a JL microsub for greater range if I can work it into the trunk well - had one in my 3 and loved it. But for now I'm happy enough and you wouldn't know anything has been done if you didn't see the sub controller in the glove box.

    Now my biggest bother is the plane-jane silver trim dash and door strips. I may take a gander at wrapping with something come spring summer. For now there's higher priorities at home.

  13. #13
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    i'm having a 2018 cx5 (RHD) and I noticed the socket used for the TAU doesnt match the PAC converter that has been widely promoted in this forum.

    real bummer for me.

  14. #14
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    You're using PAC AOEM-MAZ2? I find it crazy they'd change plugs on a carry-over system. Though I suppose stranger things have happened. Unless you have different hardware for your region

  15. #15
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    17' and up Bose, different connector at Tau.

    Quote Originally Posted by Studum View Post
    You're using PAC AOEM-MAZ2? I find it crazy they'd change plugs on a carry-over system. Though I suppose stranger things have happened. Unless you have different hardware for your region
    The 17' and up CX-5 with Bose has a different connector at the TAU. The PAC adapter everyone has been using will no longer work plug and play.....wondering for myself if anyone has found a plug and play solution? I'm looking to add either the JBL spare tire tire sub or fabricate a box and use my JL amp from my previous install...

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