Transmission "lunged" in to gear. Seat belts locked.

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2014 CX-5
Had a weird transmission slip/surge yesterday. 2014 GT. 75K miles. No service on "sealed" transmission.

Backed out of my driveway. Slight incline heading uphill on the road in the direction I travel. I came to a stop after backing out, put her in D with my foot on the brake, and pressed the gas like every time before. Engine revved, then the transmission engaged and lunged the car forward aggressively enough to cause the seatbelt to lock. Then it shifted fine. It continued to shift well on that trip and several more since then including the exact same back up out of my driveway a few more times.

I've only had this vehicle for about 800 miles. Bought it CPO about a month and a half ago. Anyone experience this before? Could it be a one off? I was planning on getting spark plugs replaced at Mazda Dealer soon so should I ask them to look for a code or test drive it?

Thanks for chiming in with any experience, thoughts or questions.
 
I just read your other thread back in March. Do you think this is the issue you were worried about happening when you bought it, based on the VIN? Any way this could just be operator error?

Either way I hope everything is fine!
 
Had a weird transmission slip/surge yesterday. 2014 GT. 75K miles. No service on "sealed" transmission.

Backed out of my driveway. Slight incline heading uphill on the road in the direction I travel. I came to a stop after backing out, put her in D with my foot on the brake, and pressed the gas like every time before. Engine revved, then the transmission engaged and lunged the car forward aggressively enough to cause the seatbelt to lock. Then it shifted fine. It continued to shift well on that trip and several more since then including the exact same back up out of my driveway a few more times.

I've only had this vehicle for about 800 miles. Bought it CPO about a month and a half ago. Anyone experience this before? Could it be a one off? I was planning on getting spark plugs replaced at Mazda Dealer soon so should I ask them to look for a code or test drive it?

Thanks for chiming in with any experience, thoughts or questions.

CPO with 75K miles? Interesting.

Automatics are funky, man, I'd write it off as "whatever" unless it has other issues or does it repeatedly.
 
Rip transmission
naizsgl.jpg
 
"sealed transmission"?
Not so sure. I just had the ATF on my '16 Mazda6 drained and filled at dealership.
Gasket replaced.

If I were you, I would go back to the seller and ask for a AT fluid renewal.
 
I placed quotes around "sealed" realizing that the fluid can be replaced yet from what I've read Mazda does not specifically recommend that owners perform that service. Although "lifetime" fluid doesn't seem to make much sense to me, I've read on this forum that if you do want to do a fluid exchange it may be best to do it earlier than the 75,000 miles it had on it when bought CPO. I have all service records from dealership I purchased at, which did all services on the car, and the transmission was not serviced.

I may ask the dealer to look at it and request a fluid exchange just don't want to create a bigger problem by doing so. I guess I have another 24,000 miles of warranty so if it acts up afterward I Cavan go that route for repair/replace.

Maybe it was a one-off hiccup as it has not repeated itself and shifts seamlessly yet seems somewhat reluctant to downshift without a good press of the pedal, but I'm new to the CX5 driving experience so that could be normal??

Thanks.
 
Transmission "lunged" in to gear. Seat belts locked.

I'd go back to your Mazda dealer and ask for ATF drain-and-fill and filter catridage change. If they're willing to do it like my Mazdz dealer, telling them the concern changing the ATF at 75K miles. If your dealer is willing to do it, and transmission fails afterwards, your dealer would help you getting transmission replaced under CPO warranty.

Although the symptom has only happened once, but IMO it's mechanical and something is not right in your transmission. Changing less than half of your ATF could resolve your issue, and prolong your transmission life.

BTW, spark plugs should get replaced at 75K miles according to Mazda's maintenance schedule. If your newly-bought CX-5 making all routine services at its Mazda dealer, the spark plugs could have been replaced earlier. And you'll be shocked to find out how expensive it'll be replacing your spark plugs at your Mazda dealer ⋯ (boom07)
 
2013 CX-5. Surged 1 time in the freeway when about 1 month old back in 2012. Never happened again in its 85k lifespan. Must've been a computer thing.
2016 Mazda6 at 41k miles. Never surged.

Oh and someone (i a different forum I think) wrote to Mazda USA regarding skyactiv transmission oil change, Mazda USA responded to refer to local dealership for recommendation. Had my dealership do my first drain fill. The next one did myself.

I though spark plugs were good through 100k?......Even though I changed mine at 70k myself :)
 
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Transmission "lunged" in to gear. Seat belts locked.

⋯ I though spark plugs were good through 100k?......Even though I changed mine at 70k myself :)
Spark-plug replacement schedule is 75,000 miles under Schedule 1.
 
Going to replace the spark plugs very soon at the dealer. They were not done previously. I'm hoping it will give the car a little more pep and perhaps smooth the idle a bit. Who knows, maybe the transmission will be more eager to downshift or at least the engine will not lug as much when I'm driving uphill.

Thanks.
 
Going to replace the spark plugs very soon at the dealer. They were not done previously. I'm hoping it will give the car a little more pep and perhaps smooth the idle a bit. Who knows, maybe the transmission will be more eager to downshift or at least the engine will not lug as much when I'm driving uphill.

Thanks.

I have had the OEM plugs for 82K miles. So far mpg and performance remains unchanged throughout the ownership (from 28k).
 
I once had a jolt after shifting from R to D. Squealed the tires. Never did it again. Kind of similar to OP's description too - I wouldn't be concerned if it doesn't repeat often.
 
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IMHO, you could probably go 100k with the OEM plugs.

I went 149k on the OEM plugs in an LS1 to no I'll effect. I pulled and gapchecked one at nearly 90 and it was perfect and looked fine. Of course, that's a 10.25:1 engine (iirc) without DI, though.
 
I went 149k on the OEM plugs in an LS1 to no I'll effect. I pulled and gapchecked one at nearly 90 and it was perfect and looked fine. Of course, that's a 10.25:1 engine (iirc) without DI, though.

At 149k were the plugs semi-seized?
 
I was quoted about $225 to swap the plugs with OEM at dealership. Steep for sure but I plan on keeping the car for another 75,000 so I figure I should just get it done. It under CPO warranty so I'll let the dealer install just in case I get any other engine issues they will not say it was serviced improperly.

I'm hoping the engine idle, especially on startup, will be a bit smoother in addition to a bit more power. Lots of conflicting opinions on that on this forum in various threads.

Shifting seems to be fine now. Really like driving this on the windy roads near my home in CT.
 
I was quoted about $225 to swap the plugs with OEM at dealership. Steep for sure but I plan on keeping the car for another 75,000 so I figure I should just get it done. It under CPO warranty so I'll let the dealer install just in case I get any other engine issues they will not say it was serviced improperly.

I'm hoping the engine idle, especially on startup, will be a bit smoother in addition to a bit more power. Lots of conflicting opinions on that on this forum in various threads.

Shifting seems to be fine now. Really like driving this on the windy roads near my home in CT.

Plugs are $20 a piece.
 
Transmission "lunged" in to gear. Seat belts locked.

I was quoted about $225 to swap the plugs with OEM at dealership. Steep for sure but I plan on keeping the car for another 75,000 so I figure I should just get it done. It under CPO warranty so I'll let the dealer install just in case I get any other engine issues they will not say it was serviced improperly.

I'm hoping the engine idle, especially on startup, will be a bit smoother in addition to a bit more power. Lots of conflicting opinions on that on this forum in various threads.

Shifting seems to be fine now. Really like driving this on the windy roads near my home in CT.
Yep, at $32.27 MSRP each for OEM PE5R-18-110 spark plug, replacing spark plugs at dealer will cost you! If I were you I'd just order them online and replace them by myself. Just save the receipt. You can ask your Mazda dealer changing them with OEM plugs supplied by youself so that you have an official record if that's your concern. Or you can have an indy to change them with much cheaper NGK supposedly equivalent ILKAR7L11 plugs.

SkyActiv-G 2.5L in your CX-5 will sound rough during initial 30 seconds after the startup to heat up catalytic converter rapidly. And I doubt you'll feel any difference on idle even if you've spent $225 with new OEM spark plugs.

If you're really going to keep your 2014 CX-5 GT longterm, I'd suggest you asking your Mazda dealer's opinion on drain-and-fill your ATF with filter change at this stage. You should do it if they say they will.
 
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