damage from 30k oil-change interval?

yrwei52 said:
So the grandma eventually responded your FB message? :)

Honestly my philosophy has always been getting a cheapest new vehicle if possible. There're too many uncertainties buying a used car and you just never know. Besides, paying $15,600 for a 2014 CX-5 Touring AWD with 70,000+ miles? I just don't know. I remember a guy here paid $21,000 with incentives for a brand new 2017 CX-5 Sport a while ago, although he had to drive 500 miles to get it. That'd be something I'd try to get if I really want a lower priced CX-5.

If you can have this used CX-5 checked, make sure to check cylinder compression and that can tell you much of the engine condition. And no there's no way that the oil can last 30,000 miles without changing. The oil will become sludage long befor that and the engine would die.
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I found their phone # and talked to the guy for awhile. He also gave me the name of the shop that had been doing recent service so I called them up too and verified several oil changes were performed.

My mistake may have been telling the dealer I talked to the former owner, because now he knows I'm aware it's in good condition. OTOH he knows I'm aware of what they traded it for.
 
Do not worry for a used car. Dealers are out to make money and will lie to your face.
The parent of an employee is buying it, we have people asking for it, they are all lies trying to make you act fast.
I am sure you can get some 17 models AWD a good price, or some 16.5 that sometimes show up as stock.
If I were you, go for the brand new, you will be paying $16k for a used 14’ with 70k miles. It is a lot of mileage for 3 years.
I do not know if Mazda is offering now 0% or 0.9% now.
 
yrwei52 said:
So the grandma eventually responded your FB message? :)

Honestly my philosophy has always been getting a cheapest new vehicle if possible. There're too many uncertainties buying a used car and you just never know. Besides, paying $15,600 for a 2014 CX-5 Touring AWD with 70,000+ miles? I just don't know. I remember a guy here paid $21,000 with incentives for a brand new 2017 CX-5 Sport a while ago, although he had to drive 500 miles to get it. That'd be something I'd try to get if I really want a lower priced CX-5.

If you can have this used CX-5 checked, make sure to check cylinder compression and that can tell you much of the engine condition. And no there's no way that the oil can last 30,000 miles without changing. The oil will become sludage long befor that and the engine would die.
Click to expand...

Cheapest new? I dunno about all that. I bought used with 36/36 new car warranty still intact for another year at minimum.
I think you can find a deal. The trick is being very very patient and looking very very hard.
 
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Car is sold :(

In case anyone's wondering, my highest offer on Friday was $15,600 and the dealer responded saying the lowest they'd go was $16,100 plus fees.

As far as buying new, I've seen many analyses that suggest buying a car 3-5 years old is a better decision from a pure financial standpoint. I suspect that's not always true...but the monthly payments would be higher than I want to spend anyways, regardless of any interest-rate incentives.
 
I am sure that the dealer will shake hands for 16000 dollars. You will be paying just 400dollars above your own estimate and that is not much if the car and it's condition is worth it. As to what is the best price you know best. What does the cars earlier workshop guy say about the service and repairs if any done before?
 
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raj55 said:
I am sure that the dealer will shake hands for 16000 dollars. You will be paying g just 400dollars above your own estimate and that is not much if the car and it's condition is worth it. As to what is the best price you know best. What does the cars earlier workshop guy say about the service and repairs if any done before?
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Judging from his last post ("Car is sold"), and the sad face, I'd say it's too late for him. Car is gone.

To Desertsp: Hope you find something else that meets your needs soon. Keep looking and good luck.
 
sorry i missed that part of the post. What the heck, there will be more new offers and perhaps even a used 2017 in a good condition. Don't be depressed.
 
Yeah not a big deal, it was a good car though, wouldve been worth the 16,000 I think.

I wonder if nobody else even cares about maintenance history? Seems like most dealers dont have this, they cant tell me if a car was maintained at all or not. Half the ones Ive dug into were definitely not. Youd think thats a pretty key datapoint, right?
 
Desertsp said:
Whelp...turns out the car is immaculate..."grandma driven"....and perfect history at reputable shop.

Trying to get it for KBB...$15,600....will see what happens. Wish it wasn't CPO now actually, since that just jacks the price up.
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Old people sometimes done change oil,lol. I took in a 2 year old car with OEM line filter. Oil was pudding. It ran fine though. 15k miles.
 
Desertsp said:
Yeah not a big deal, it was a good car though, wouldve been worth the 16,000 I think.

I wonder if nobody else even cares about maintenance history? Seems like most dealers dont have this, they cant tell me if a car was maintained at all or not. Half the ones Ive dug into were definitely not. Youd think thats a pretty key datapoint, right?
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Not really. I never cared. It is what it is. Cars are not ming vases.
 
Another good idea is to look for vehicles that were leased instead of financed. This is because leased vehicles are taken better care of because they require the lessee to do so. This info is tied to the VIN.
Also, I'd try to go for the 2-3 year range for used...
Save your pennies ;)
 
joydestroy said:
Another good idea is to look for vehicles that were leased instead of financed. This is because leased vehicles are taken better care of because they require the lessee to do so. This info is tied to the VIN.
Also, I'd try to go for the 2-3 year range for used...
Save your pennies ;)
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Yeah definitely prioritizing leases. If I don't find a good deal on a 2014 "sky blue" I'll probably just start looking at 2016's. Will have to pay more, but can stretch the budget somewhat...
 
joydestroy said:
Another good idea is to look for vehicles that were leased instead of financed. This is because leased vehicles are taken better care of because they require the lessee to do so. This info is tied to the VIN.
Also, I'd try to go for the 2-3 year range for used...
Save your pennies ;)
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about that because all the people I know who lease have an "I don't care it's a lease" attitude towards how they take care of it. That being said if you're looking at cars around 3 years old you'll probably be mostly seeing lease returns as people who finance *usually* keep it longer. I mean if you're only keeping it 3 years it really does make more sense to lease.
 
Unobtanium said:
Maybe lengthened...
https://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

Interesting study with lab data.
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Interesting indeed!

The only theory I can come up with (the article doesnt present one unless I overlooked it) is that fresh oil has more potential to dissolve metals, but old oil is already saturated so the rate of dissolving drops. I have no idea if thats how oil/metals work, though.

In any case, it still looks like topping off the oil is important.
 
Desertsp said:
Interesting indeed!

The only theory I can come up with (the article doesn’t present one unless I overlooked it) is that fresh oil has more potential to dissolve metals, but “old” oil is already saturated so the rate of dissolving drops. I have no idea if that’s how oil/metals work, though.

In any case, it still looks like topping off the oil is important.
Click to expand...
This sentence is totally against Mazda's philosophy as Mazda has always been wanting oil level falls not at the Full/Max mark, but between Add/Min and Full/Max marks on our dipstick, evidenced by the oil level from factory, and the oil capacity specs in our owner's manual.

Paradise Garage! said:
⋯
• Topping up the crankcase is a critical component of extended oil change intervals, and frequent filter changes are most likely the key to extreme-length intervals. The cumulative effect of even minor top-ups, let alone a filter change, substantially increases the longevity of the oil.
⋯
Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources.
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