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Thread: Cold engine blue light indicator; Fluid level higher after idling?

  1. #1
    Registered Member

    mazda

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    Cold engine blue light indicator; Fluid level higher after idling?

    Do you wait for the blue light to go away before shifting gears and start driving?

    Also I found the fluid level were high (AT and engine) - the car was parked and idling for a few days.
    Manual has a procedure to follow - but is it typical that the fluid level to be well above the the MAX level after idling?

    AT was serviced at the Mazda dealership (fully flushed - also did 30 point inspection) - called them up and they told me to follow the manual procedure first - engine oil was changed by the used car dealer - I just did under 1k not realizing these.

  2. #2
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    2009 Mazda 5 GT

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    No need to wait for the engine to warm up. Just start it and drive, but try to keep it under 3K RPM until it's warmed up.
    Oil level, check when it's cold. A 'little' over the max line is OK.
    AT fluid, check with engine running, car at operating temperature, parked on flat ground.
    If either is too high, the safest thing is to drain or change fluids to get it back to the right level.

  3. #3
    Registered Member MZ5black's Avatar

    2014 Mazda5 Sport Auto

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    Aug 2015
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    Flat surface is important here. Another thing is that measuring A/T fluid level accurately is not easy. You may get different readings on three different pulls of the dipstick. I've heard of this issue on a number of vehicles. I think you are ok there. However, if you are concerned you can suck the ATF using a pump without draining it.

    As to engine, you may want to just dump the oil and change filter. I have no idea how trustworthy the used car dealer is but there are plenty of good deals right now (Mobil 1 mail-in rebate, Pennzoil mail-in rebate, in-store coupons, etc) if you are into changing oil yourself with high-quality product.
    Last edited by MZ5black; 05-11-2018 at 11:29 PM. Reason: spelling

  4. #4
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    2012 Mazda 5

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    Thanks MZ, I didn't know the M1 rebate was going on!

  5. #5
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    mazda

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    Thanks @alawat82 @MZ5black

    Today I did the measurement again following the procedure.

    When the engine was running, the AT was just about 1cm over.

    Whereas the engine oil was 0.5" - 0.75" above the max (engine was not running but hot engine). Dealer said its not even a quart and don't bother. Should I not?

    Changing engine oil is easy on this car - just need to buy the tool to remove the filter - also the Mobil1 oil on rebate. But the existing conventional oil only been there for 2 months and only did 1k miles. I was thinking of 1year/3k miles for the oil change?

  6. #6
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    2012 Mazda 5

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    Apr 2013
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    Vancouver
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    622
    I don't use a tool to remove the oil filter, just my hands.
    It should not be so tight that you need a tool, but of course a good tool should make life a little easier.
    You can remove a little bit of both oils, best done on the cold engine.
    Just remove the drain plug (don't drop it) and still use it to block the oil flow and screw it back in when you feel it is enough drained.
    If you use this way, wear rubber gloves. I've done this for both oils if needed and works well on cold.
    You can also get lazy and use this tool on the hot oil: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOAFP9C
    I have it now as on the boat it is the best way to change oil.

    Limits are there for a reason. I'm sure they can be pushed a little here or there but if you want to be save, stick with what Mazda set as the limit.
    One would hope they had some smart designer working on this limit and not just randomly pulled it out of their ass.

    Quote Originally Posted by ms2000 View Post
    Thanks @alawat82 @MZ5black
    Today I did the measurement again following the procedure.
    When the engine was running, the AT was just about 1cm over.
    Whereas the engine oil was 0.5" - 0.75" above the max (engine was not running but hot engine). Dealer said its not even a quart and don't bother. Should I not?
    Changing engine oil is easy on this car - just need to buy the tool to remove the filter - also the Mobil1 oil on rebate. But the existing conventional oil only been there for 2 months and only did 1k miles. I was thinking of 1year/3k miles for the oil change?

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