College Student First Car Build

This looks to me like it was rubbing on something..



The Crankshaft position sensor has only .5 - 1.5 mm clearance between the sensor and the toothed ring.

It may not take much twist of your valve cover to push your sensor into the cam gear.

Take a look at your cam gear when your valve cover is off to see if you can see rubbing marks.
 
Keep in mind too that with some codes, (especially an engine misfire) the ECU goes into limp mode where it floods the engine with gas and reduces ignition timing advance as well as other things in an effort to protect the engine.

As soon as you get a misfire, limp mode kicks in and stays there until the code clears.

An engine can run with bad or no cam sensor data but will shutdown with bad or no crank sensor data.
The ECU assumes where the valves are based on the crank info.
 
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I just pulled the cam sensor and it looks as it did when I put in in minus some metal filings on it (which i read the slightest bit can cause false readings). I compared the size and whatnot and they seem identical. I got the one DP sent me last night so I will put that one in when I get a moment. I do think that Mazda dealership goofed up so bad with my VC gasket that I am going to have to redo it before anything.

I'm hoping the P0304 code is the oil leaking into the cylinder, which will be remedied with a VC gasket


Also, do you happen to know what gauge wire the car has in it on the positive and negative terminals? I found new terminals but need to make sure it'll fit the car's 2 wires and my 8 ga amp positive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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Gabe710 said:
Also, do you happen to know what gauge wire the car has in it on the positive and negative terminals? I found new terminals but need to make sure it'll fit the car's 2 wires and my 8 ga amp positive...
Click to expand...

I don't know the gauge but I did find this...
(make sure you measure just the wire thickness without the insulator)



I looks like that battery terminal will fit a wire that's a bit smaller but not bigger.
 
Gabe710 said:
I just pulled the cam sensor and it looks as it did when I put in in minus some metal filings on it (which i read the slightest bit can cause false readings). I compared the size and whatnot and they seem identical. I got the one DP sent me last night so I will put that one in when I get a moment. I do think that Mazda dealership goofed up so bad with my VC gasket that I am going to have to redo it before anything.

I'm hoping the P0304 code is the oil leaking into the cylinder, which will be remedied with a VC gasket.
Click to expand...

You can measure the resistance of the cam sensor just to see if it's the same spec as our car...



The metal filings are a concern,.. You have to wonder where they came from.
I wouldn't install DP's sensor until you get your gasket installed just in case it is hitting something.

Check the inside of the valve cover and cams when you install your new gasket.

The misfire may well be from the oil on the plug shorting out the spark,... I wouldn't worry about that till after you're done your gasket.
 
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I thought I'd post a picture of the cam gears for interest sake...



I'm pretty sure those are magnets on the gear,... They could be covered in metal filings.
The filings could get on your t-belt and pulleys too.


It's interesting how the two magnets beside each other look to be around 20 BTDC so the ECU knows exactly where the valves are when it fires a spark

 
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Keep your IAC in mind too, it could also be sticking open or closed causing a vacuum leak.
Maybe just clean it for good measure while you wait for your valve cover gasket to arrive.

It's a lot easier to remove than the EGR but it's got the same crappy screws that are made out of swiss cheese.

Keep in mind too that when you get your car running (I said when not if) that your EGR may foul up again but now you know exactly what to look for so you'll know what to do.

I figure if your car is burning oil it's more inclined to send dirty oil laden exhaust through it that will gum it up faster.

There is the Canadian EGR that has coolant lines attached and people that installed it never had an EGR problem again.
They are expensive though.



(PS.. The EGR with coolant lines isn't listed for the P5 but is listed for the regular protg at Rockauto... But they fit and work fine on the P5)
 
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I forgot to mention, I had no issues with the screws! I have a phillips head with a flat bottomed tip instead of a pointy one (might be a JIS, but I doubt it) and pushed as hard as I could and slowly turned the screw.
As for the course of action (I am learning) what setting should I have my multimeter. Like what should be the highest OHM I use.
But I think I am going to start with cleaning the IAC today if I get a moment, then ordering the valve cover gasket next paycheck, cause either way it has to come off for inspection of the cam gears, to reseal, and best believe if I find oil on my newly replaced timing belt I'm raising hell in that Mazda dealership and getting my $500 for labor and some extra to replace my TB. This will be over the next few weeks cause of school, but it will eventually get done
 
Well today has been a good day! Got to see a friend I haven't seen in a little over a year and got a car that's "been in my life" since high school (class of 2014).
She was a little rougher than I thought, but it is all cosmetic! Car needs a good detail, which I'm doing today since work and school is closed but sales is open, thus prep is still open and I have access to their stuff. The CEL wasn't on my whole drive home, but I'm gonna hook it up to a scan tool when I get to work tomorrow. One of the front rotors are warped (evident by the violent shaking in the steering wheel during braking) Since the bumper needs to be replaced, I'd like to do a MSP/MP3/P5 front end, but I can't find exactly what I need on the forums (posts say different stuff) and need to stop spending money. I definitely want a MSP wing, however but time will tell. I am also toying with the idea of using the extra P5 steering wheel I have and swapping it on there, I prefer the look a little more and this one is slightly worn. But overall, a great purchase! Definitely going to have to keep an eye out for mechanical stuff as my friend kinda just drove the car without doing anything unless the mechanic said it needed it. But time will tell. It isn't the MSP I wanted but for $350 I'm not complaining! These were taken right after we got done eating and before my GF (black sonata) and I headed back to va beach
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Gabe710 said:
As for the course of action (I am learning) what setting should I have my multimeter. Like what should be the highest OHM I use.
Click to expand...

Normally, you start at the highest range and work your way down to a lower range until you get a reading with the decimal in the right spot.
The different settings usually just move the decimal point around.
Some multi meters have just one setting and automatically move the decimal for you. They're called auto ranging (they're kinds nice and easier to operate).

The big thing is to never use your ohmmeter setting on a live circuit. The ohmmeter should never see voltage or you'll blow the meters fuse or blow it up outright if it doesn't have a fuse.

In your case with the cam sensor, when you unplug it you are removing it from the circuit and testing the only two wires going to and from the sensor.
 
Just thinkin, it sounds like your car's out of commission till you get your gasket so you could remove your valve cover now and take a look.

You can put a socket on your crank pulley bolt and rotate the engine clockwise to rotate the belt and cam gears to inspect..
 
The car is definitely out of commission for now lol I took the solenoids to fix the sedan off the wagon for now. Can I leave the valve cover off for a few weeks without messing anything up? I was just gonna wait for payday
 
You should be fine,.. You could just set the cover back on to keep crap from getting in.

The biggest problem is forgetting where all the parts go or losing them.

But,.. It might give you time to check everything and get part of the job done. Plus you can take pictures of any oil on the belt or other issues to show the dealership and get that done before your gasket arrives.
 
ah new car parts are like Christmas morning lol
Rear brakes for the silver Protege (first time ever attempting brakes, and of course I choose drum brakes) and finally the valve cover gasket for the P5. I've been missing driving it and can't wait to get it back on the road. Ordering a MP3 ECU as soon as I get my refund for the smoother power band. From my research, I hope it is worth it.
vpZmjqT.jpg
 
After my chiropractor appointment this morning, Im going to tackle the valve cover gasket before school. It seems it should only take an hour or so and Im missing the car. Will update later this evening!
 
Gabe710 said:
After my chiropractor appointment this morning, I*m going to tackle the valve cover gasket before school. It seems it should only take an hour or so and I*m missing the car. Will update later this evening!
Click to expand...

let me know if you need help or get stuck for some reason.
 
Gabe710 said:
...It seems it should only take an hour or so and Im missing the car...
Click to expand...

A good rule of thumb is to estimate how long a job will take, then double that time and add a bit more and that's how long it usually takes...
 
pcb said:
A good rule of thumb is to estimate how long a job will take, then double that time and add a bit more and that's how long it usually takes...
Click to expand...

So far so good. but I probably just put my foot in my mouth saying that
 
Well, I got the Valve cover off and everuthing looks good. No contact on the cams, so I think the scuffs on the last camshaft position sensor was from the timing belt. In the 2nd picture you can see all the debris left over that Cavalier Mazda failed to remove. There was also barely any rtv on the corners, and half of the bolts felt finger tight. So in a way this is a blessing. Hopefully I can drive the car tonight, cause if this doesnt work i dont know where else to go except do a compression check and hope the motor is good. I'm hoping it is as the car runs good for a few miles before it is undrivable.
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