College Student First Car Build
- Thread starter Gabe710
- Start date
Actually,... The troubleshooting chart doesn't mention idling but does list the EGR as a possible cause.
And,.. Looking at that list again, it mentioned the purge solenoid valve.
They have been known to fail too and go for around $10-$15 online.
There is a test for it too but it might decide to behave while you're testing it (intermittent failure)
And,.. Looking at that list again, it mentioned the purge solenoid valve.
They have been known to fail too and go for around $10-$15 online.
There is a test for it too but it might decide to behave while you're testing it (intermittent failure)
I don't know ??
You would think the engine would need to be running to create a vacuum... I don't think we can "store" vacuum pressure ??
Ill have to take a video of it.
I just did some further research and apparently if the EGR is stuck open it can create a vacuum leak. Might be the one Im hearing as I dont see any lines that look worn or disconnected.
Seriously, I appreciate all you do for suggestions and everything. They really do help me as someone who somewhat has an idea of cars but just started working on them
I just did some further research and apparently if the EGR is stuck open it can create a vacuum leak. Might be the one Im hearing as I dont see any lines that look worn or disconnected.
Seriously, I appreciate all you do for suggestions and everything. They really do help me as someone who somewhat has an idea of cars but just started working on them
Last edited:
I remember one guy who checked all his vacuum lines visually and by hand but didn't find any problems.
He finally took his car in and they found a vacuum leak.
Make sure you use carb cleaner and spray it around to search for a vacuum leak. It can locate a leak that you can't see or even hear.
Remember too that there is a lot of possible causes for what your car is doing, it may take a while to go through the whole list but don't give up.
Try to find that vacuum leak... Even a leak so small you can't hear it can mess up your car.
Well, this isn't a post I expected to make.
The P5 is still down as I don't have time to get the egr out. I am attempting today after work (depending on the rain) but I am definitely putting the car back together to take it to work Saturday and do a smoke test to try to find that vacuum leak.
BUT the good (slightly better) news! My friend who I went to high school with is purchasing a new car and the dealership only offered him $327 for his 2001 Protege with a few issues. Leaks a little oil, has 3 codes (P1596, P1250, and a P0660), and has been in 2 accidents and some wear of a 17 year old car that has spent a lot of its life in downtown Richmond, VA. Car only has 169,000 miles which is almost none compared to the P5. He said he'd let it go for $350 so I am going up there to get the car this weekend and pay him in a week or 2 when my refund processes (I've been good friends with him for 7 years).
I am heading to the pick n pull to try to grab the solenoids to fix the codes.
This is a great purchase IMO as the girlfriend can't drive manual well enough to let me let her take the P5 and she said she doesn't mind driving this around town! Win Win
The P5 is still down as I don't have time to get the egr out. I am attempting today after work (depending on the rain) but I am definitely putting the car back together to take it to work Saturday and do a smoke test to try to find that vacuum leak.
BUT the good (slightly better) news! My friend who I went to high school with is purchasing a new car and the dealership only offered him $327 for his 2001 Protege with a few issues. Leaks a little oil, has 3 codes (P1596, P1250, and a P0660), and has been in 2 accidents and some wear of a 17 year old car that has spent a lot of its life in downtown Richmond, VA. Car only has 169,000 miles which is almost none compared to the P5. He said he'd let it go for $350 so I am going up there to get the car this weekend and pay him in a week or 2 when my refund processes (I've been good friends with him for 7 years).
I am heading to the pick n pull to try to grab the solenoids to fix the codes.
This is a great purchase IMO as the girlfriend can't drive manual well enough to let me let her take the P5 and she said she doesn't mind driving this around town! Win Win
Last edited:
Quick update, so I smoke tested the car to no avail.
After an hour and more frustration I got the EGR out and it was stuck. I have it soaking in brake clean right now. BUT for the best part, it had no gasket, so I am running to get that one right now. Will update later this evening
After an hour and more frustration I got the EGR out and it was stuck. I have it soaking in brake clean right now. BUT for the best part, it had no gasket, so I am running to get that one right now. Will update later this evening
After 3.5 hours I think the car is finally sound again! I ended up having to run to an autozone to grab the gasket and some carb clean (turns out there is a difference) still need to test drive the car but it is idling way better. I guess I shorted in my radio as it doesn't work (turns on but no buttons work and can't get an fm signal) so I'm calling crutchfield later. Definitely easier to remove the air intake and the battery and go through that way. Didn't want to take out all of these parts, but I took some pics just to. The bolt I rounded off is in there as well. (turns out these fit in a 12 and 13mm so I don't know what size they truly are, a 12mm 12pt is what rounded it. I had no clue it was a 12pt but I've been using it for years)
12 point sockets suck, they always round off your nuts and bolts.
Our car has no size 13mm.
Our car uses 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm and 21 mm.
I did have a 14 mm bolt that was so rusted that the 14 mm was loose so I hammered on a 13 mm, but normally there are no 11 mm, 13 mm or 15&16.
Sounds like a software type glitch to me.
See if there is a reset button or maybe disconnect your battery and reconnect it.
Keep in mind that when you disconnect the battery your ECU needs to relearn how to idle your car.
I can idle rough for about 100 miles.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Nice man! Glad you could fix up the problem(?)
Again, I swear that you're me from an alternate universe, because I too just fixed up my exhaust leak + shifter. So I guess that if something goes wrong on your car, or if something goes wrong on mine, a problem on the other's car is not far behind lmao
Again, I swear that you're me from an alternate universe, because I too just fixed up my exhaust leak + shifter. So I guess that if something goes wrong on your car, or if something goes wrong on mine, a problem on the other's car is not far behind lmao
Well radio works now (after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery)
I drove the car about 3 miles with no issues and was very happy. Went to harbor freight to return some tools I ended up not needing, went to get gas, pulled back on to the road and it misfired once. Thought oh well. Just a fluke. Well, it started again about 10 miles into my drive [emoji854][emoji854] (put 50 miles on it cause I was too far to turn around and meeting family) car is way more drivable than before (still going to be parked) but now has a P0340 and P0304 code. I cleaned the crank position sensor connector thinking itd work but was wrong. So I have that on the way and Im ordering a new valve cover gasket so I can paint and fix Cavalier Mazdas **** up once again (the number 4 cylinder is the one with the oil getting on the plug).
Also ran into an issue with the radio restarting and the lights flickering with every rpm drop. I got 10 feet from my parking spot and the car died. Those rinky terminals have to go. I didnt have these issues with the old, and it took me an hour to start the car after I put it together cause of the terminals not making solid contact.
Oh well, a short lived victory
I drove the car about 3 miles with no issues and was very happy. Went to harbor freight to return some tools I ended up not needing, went to get gas, pulled back on to the road and it misfired once. Thought oh well. Just a fluke. Well, it started again about 10 miles into my drive [emoji854][emoji854] (put 50 miles on it cause I was too far to turn around and meeting family) car is way more drivable than before (still going to be parked) but now has a P0340 and P0304 code. I cleaned the crank position sensor connector thinking itd work but was wrong. So I have that on the way and Im ordering a new valve cover gasket so I can paint and fix Cavalier Mazdas **** up once again (the number 4 cylinder is the one with the oil getting on the plug).
Also ran into an issue with the radio restarting and the lights flickering with every rpm drop. I got 10 feet from my parking spot and the car died. Those rinky terminals have to go. I didnt have these issues with the old, and it took me an hour to start the car after I put it together cause of the terminals not making solid contact.
Oh well, a short lived victory
Hope youre ready then lmao read my latest post.
What was going on with your shifter?
Keep in mind that the IAC doesn't start working until the car is warmed up, then the ECU hands over control of idle to the IAC.
The crank sensor doesn't look difficult to replace,... Two bolts and it's out.
BUT, code P0340 is for the cam sensor.
Perhaps the one off the 626 was bad or not the right one. Maybe take it out and take a look at it.
I was thinking that maybe your valve cover is so crooked that your cam sensor is rubbing on the cam gear.
I'm pretty sure that if you're throwing a Cam Sensor code then there's something wrong with your cam sensor.
The way your first Cam Sensor appeared, it looked like it was rubbing on something. It didn't look like any sort of normal wear.
The crank sensor doesn't look difficult to replace,... Two bolts and it's out.
BUT, code P0340 is for the cam sensor.
Perhaps the one off the 626 was bad or not the right one. Maybe take it out and take a look at it.
I was thinking that maybe your valve cover is so crooked that your cam sensor is rubbing on the cam gear.
I'm pretty sure that if you're throwing a Cam Sensor code then there's something wrong with your cam sensor.
The way your first Cam Sensor appeared, it looked like it was rubbing on something. It didn't look like any sort of normal wear.
