Mazda engine reliability testing

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2018 3 Sport GT MANUAL
Having a discussion with someone on another forum about Mazda engine reliability and I recall someone posting a link here to a website that does 100k+ mileage testing on motors and measured Mazda to have extremely low signs of wear that I tried searching for but can not find.

Any help in regards to a link?
 
Don't know of a link. But I can attest that my 2007 Mazda 3 2.0 has 120000 on the odometer. I did a compression test at about 115000. The results were 190 187 185 188. That's each cyclinder. The ideal is that average of all the numbers be no more than 10% of the highest cylinder. The other part is making sure the cylinder is holding the pressure. According to this test my engine is very healthy. I don't autocross but I am know to lay the hammer down. The engine is fully bolted with a full race exhaust. And the computer is custom tuned specific for this motor. So I dont drive for fuel savings. Non the less I get about 25 MPG on long trips. 330miles per tank. And during city / highway driving roughly 290 miles per tank. I change the oil religiously every 5000 miles. I've always used mobile 1 full synthetic. I take active car and although the engine isn't close to 200000 miles, I've never ever ever ever had an issue with the engine. At least that didn't result in a bad spark plugs being changed or a defective old coil pack being replaced. And that was at about 100000 miles. That being said that was one of the last year's they used a fordmoco engine. So...for what that's worth.
 
My 2009 Mazdaspeed3, a Direct injected turbocharged motor, had a rod bearing start to fail at just over 283,000 miles. Air filters and spark plugs and oil changes were the only service required. While most of the miles were freeway, for a high performance motor, I was very impressed.
 
Don't know of a link. But I can attest that my 2007 Mazda 3 2.0 has 120000 on the odometer. I did a compression test at about 115000. The results were 190 187 185 188. That's each cyclinder. The ideal is that average of all the numbers be no more than 10% of the highest cylinder. The other part is making sure the cylinder is holding the pressure. According to this test my engine is very healthy. I don't autocross but I am know to lay the hammer down. The engine is fully bolted with a full race exhaust. And the computer is custom tuned specific for this motor. So I dont drive for fuel savings. Non the less I get about 25 MPG on long trips. 330miles per tank. And during city / highway driving roughly 290 miles per tank. I change the oil religiously every 5000 miles. I've always used mobile 1 full synthetic. I take active car and although the engine isn't close to 200000 miles, I've never ever ever ever had an issue with the engine. At least that didn't result in a bad spark plugs being changed or a defective old coil pack being replaced. And that was at about 100000 miles. That being said that was one of the last year's they used a fordmoco engine. So...for what that's worth.

I tested compression on my sr20DE and it was lower than yours, but just as consistent. I looked up the factory specs and mine blew identical to new spec. Different engines. 120k miles shouldn't even be a factor for engines. I think transmissions are what die.

I got 25mpg avg and 31mpg highway. Nowhere near the power your car had though. Rated 145, iirc
 
I got a new engine under warranty for my Protege5 ("oil starvation due to cornering") at under 20k and I'm on my 3rd engine in 10 years with my RX-7.

The MSP has been bullet proof though. 15 years, 75K, always 100% stock, and it looks and runs like new. :)
 
Buying any new car these days....I'm never worried about the engine. Its the transmission I'm more concerned of.
 
Buying any new car these days....I'm never worried about the engine. Its the transmission I'm more concerned of.

These Mazda engines are very tough. They can last you a very long time with normal maintenance and have very little known issues. Very well sorted out motor.

If you are concerned about the transmission, all you really need to do is change the fluid on time. Or just buy a manual. :)
 
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