Oil, Carbon build up palooza!

I would like a intake manifold with a ‘valve’ port thing that you can connect a spray cleaner tube to the intake for each intake valve, spray it in to the 1,2,3,4 cylinder one at a time with out removing the manifold.. when finished place a ‘cap’ back on the ‘valve’ off you go driving again.

Hope that makes scene and you understand my vision.. (thought)
 
Are your high grade fuels like V Power laced with detergent like ours? It keeps the inside of an engine like a new pin.
 
ddtigger1 said:
I would like a intake manifold with a ‘valve’ port thing that you can connect a spray cleaner tube to the intake for each intake valve, spray it in to the 1,2,3,4 cylinder one at a time with out removing the manifold.. when finished place a ‘cap’ back on the ‘valve’ off you go driving again.

Hope that makes scene and you understand my vision.. (thought)
Click to expand...

doable since manifold is made of high grade, rare & precious plastic material.

here's what you need 1/8" npt to 1/4" npt brass or aluminum hex bushing reducer, 1/8" npt brass or aluminum plug, O-rings or telfon tape, maybe high temp epoxy or silicone rtv??, 1/4" npt hand taps

please be the guinea pig, try it! =)
 
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ddtigger1 said:
I would like a intake manifold with a valve port thing that you can connect a spray cleaner tube to the intake for each intake valve, spray it in to the 1,2,3,4 cylinder one at a time with out removing the manifold.. when finished place a cap back on the valve off you go driving again.

Hope that makes scene and you understand my vision.. (thought)
Click to expand...

You'd have make it a relatively regular thing(spraying). I think once the carbon is baked on, solvents do very little to remove it. You can probably slow down the buildup quite a bit, but I think it would still require mechanical cleaning at some point. The vehicle might be long dead by the time it would need cleaning, but I think it would eventually build up.

Anchorman said:
Are your high grade fuels like V Power laced with detergent like ours? It keeps the inside of an engine like a new pin.
Click to expand...

As other's mentioned, the DI engines don't get the fuel spray on the back of the valves, so the detergents aren't able to work their magic on them like a port injection engine.
 
Odrapnew said:
You'd have make it a relatively regular thing(spraying). I think once the carbon is baked on, solvents do very little to remove it. You can probably slow down the buildup quite a bit, but I think it would still require mechanical cleaning at some point. The vehicle might be long dead by the time it would need cleaning, but I think it would eventually build up.

As other's mentioned, the DI engines don't get the fuel spray on the back of the valves, so the detergents aren't able to work their magic on them like a port injection engine.
Click to expand...
It can possibly be made a regular thing with a water methanol injection setup, given a modified intake manifold that has ports for it. Or maybe methanol can be injected before the throttle body, like modify the pipe leading to the throttle body.
 
finch204 said:
It can possibly be made a regular thing with a water methanol injection setup, given a modified intake manifold that has ports for it. Or maybe methanol can be injected before the throttle body, like modify the pipe leading to the throttle body.
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, I think it's a good idea.

My thought was if you only did it every 10k miles or so(totally arbitrary number), it might have a small impact on the buildup, but if you did it every 5K or even almost every time you drive(like water/meth kit), it would maintain it better. You could also look at just water to steam the intake.
 
Odrapnew said:
Don't get me wrong, I think it's a good idea.

My thought was if you only did it every 10k miles or so(totally arbitrary number), it might have a small impact on the buildup, but if you did it every 5K or even almost every time you drive(like water/meth kit), it would maintain it better. You could also look at just water to steam the intake.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

----------------------------

Been doing some more reading and most of it has to do with maintenance on my Speed3. Has anyone tried to disconnect the EGR on a SkyActiv engine? Doing so could possibly mitigate carbon build-up. Although with the super high compression ratio on the SkyActiv engines, my concern would then be the possibility of more engine knock with the EGR disconnected.
 
finch204 said:
Agreed.

----------------------------

Been doing some more reading and most of it has to do with maintenance on my Speed3. Has anyone tried to disconnect the EGR on a SkyActiv engine? Doing so could possibly mitigate carbon build-up. Although with the super high compression ratio on the SkyActiv engines, my concern would then be the possibility of more engine knock with the EGR disconnected.
Click to expand...

As far as I know, there is no EGR system on gasoline Skyactiv engine.
 
Driver 1 said:
As far as I know, there is no EGR system on gasoline Skyactiv engine.
Click to expand...

Really? Can you direct me to some links that talk about that? That would be an interesting read.

If I'm not mistaken, the 2.5T engine has cooled EGR, which is why I expected the SkyActiv engines to have them.
 
"To eliminate the problem of intake valve deposits that plague current direct gasoline injection engines, the engineers at Mazda determined that deposits are formed when intake valve temperatures fall below 400 degrees C. Measures were taken so that the intake valve would operate above this point to reduce deposit formation."

Both our Mazdas see 2 hours of driving per day. Pretty sure we get up to temps consistently. That said....I may go back to 89 octane (from 87) just to help minimize deposits.
 
Sky g does have egr.

*edit it does not use a dedicated egr system/valve
 
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Driver 1 said:
really? where? do tell, I will block that valve!
Click to expand...
My bad, I was trying to find you a pic in the workshop manual and there is no separate EGR system/valve. But they gost have the dtc for it listed in there oddly. What I was thinking was part of the egr in my head was a metal coolant pipe on the backside of the motor lol. Any egr type functions are done with valve timing..
 
The FRS/BRZ engine also came with a port and direct injection engine. The transition going from port injection to direct injection is claimed to be what is causing the torque dip mid RPM. That torque dip is what allows the Miata to win comparos against the twins. I sure hope Toyota has addressed that in their new engines.
 
port and direct fuel injection

finch204 said:
The FRS/BRZ engine also came with a port and direct injection engine. The transition going from port injection to direct injection is claimed to be what is causing the torque dip mid RPM. That torque dip is what allows the Miata to win comparos against the twins. I sure hope Toyota has addressed that in their new engines.
Click to expand...
2018 Toyota Camry has this new 203/206 hp Dynamic Force 2.5L. I've not seen any reports on such complaint, but only see the average MPG rating at Fuelly.com has shot up to 31.5 for 2018 Camry 2.5L I4 from 26.3 for 2017!
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
Valve cleaner and a toothbrush and towel. You'll wanna start with the valves that are closed so you can clean them without putting the garbage into the chamber. Then move the crankshaft clockwise (direction of rotation) and do whichever ones werent closed. If you are trying to walnut blast or something you defintely have to make sure the valve is closed, if you are just using cleaners it's not as vital but you don't want a bunch of carbon bits in the chamber. Also a bunch of videos on youtube "direct injection valve cleaning"
Click to expand...

Two questions Chris:

1. Where is and how do you turn the crankshaft? With a tool or hand?
2. How do you tell if the valve is closed. Is it obvious?
 
CX-5um said:
Two questions Chris:

1. Where is and how do you turn the crankshaft? With a tool or hand?
2. How do you tell if the valve is closed. Is it obvious?
Click to expand...

it's the large pulley at the bottom of the right (passenger) side of engine. You just use a wrench (longer better). You will be able to see the valve position when the manifold is off. The idea is that you are cleaning the valves while they are closed. Otherwise you'd be spraying/scraping junk into the cylinder.

 
Chris_Top_Her said:
it's the large pulley at the bottom of the right (passenger) side of engine. You just use a wrench (longer better). You will be able to see the valve position when the manifold is off. The idea is that you are cleaning the valves while they are closed. Otherwise you'd be spraying/scraping junk into the cylinder.

Click to expand...

Alright cool. This seems like an easier project then it seems. I guess the tricky part is removing the intake manifold.
 
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