Saint's Build Thread

You have to drop the exhaust to install the hitch still. I never finished this because I use the hitch a lot but not with a trailer. I'll get it done sometime in the future lol.
 
I saw the part numbers, I'm just confused at how they are OEM(I know they are, I found them online) but when are they used by the OEM if the only ones I have ever seen are the tall shiny silver ones. Are they maybe for an older CX-5, but still fit?

I did this with my '09 Mazda hatch. They are OEM parts. From what I could find on my 2009 mazda 3 was they were standard on other country's vehicles, but not standard on US models. Not sure why Mazda didn't include these rain gutter guards standard on all models. It would make putting a Thule or other aftermarket roof rack easier. I used the thule rack on my 09 3. I've been looking at doing this on my 2018 cx-5 as well.
 
I saw the part numbers, I'm just confused at how they are OEM(I know they are, I found them online) but when are they used by the OEM if the only ones I have ever seen are the tall shiny silver ones. Are they maybe for an older CX-5, but still fit?
If I'm understanding you correctly, the rails are factory as they fit the new models on a global level. The Thule rail system sits on top of these while the rhino rack system only covers the holes.
 
Hitch installed and new roof molding ordered... Now it's time to decide on which company to go for on roof rails.

I just installed the same one myself last weekend. One question for you: That slim little piece of plastic that you remove that is held in with the 2 push pins, were you able to reinstall it? I couldn't figure out how to get it back up in there and I didn't want to force it. It doesn't seem like it's a crucial piece, I'd rather not have it sitting in my garage if there's a way to put it back on.
 
I just installed the same one myself last weekend. One question for you: That slim little piece of plastic that you remove that is held in with the 2 push pins, were you able to reinstall it? I couldn't figure out how to get it back up in there and I didn't want to force it. It doesn't seem like it's a crucial piece, I'd rather not have it sitting in my garage if there's a way to put it back on.
If you are talking about the four cover pieces, yup. Lay it flat facing the correct direction and I use a flat rounded tool to push it
 
I just installed the same one myself last weekend. One question for you: That slim little piece of plastic that you remove that is held in with the 2 push pins, were you able to reinstall it? I couldn't figure out how to get it back up in there and I didn't want to force it. It doesn't seem like it's a crucial piece, I'd rather not have it sitting in my garage if there's a way to put it back on.

I know exactly what you are taking about. That slim piece cant be reinstalled. At least not in the 2019 models. Recommend you go to etrailer.com and find the trailer hitch for a Mazda CX-5 where they mention that piece can not be put back.
 
I know exactly what you are taking about. That slim piece cant be reinstalled. At least not in the 2019 models. Recommend you go to etrailer.com and find the trailer hitch for a Mazda CX-5 where they mention that piece can not be put back.

Ahh good to know. Yeah I just checked their website and it does say that GT models have a piece of trim that doesn't get reinstalled. I wonder why only the GT models?
 
After my last trip home and driving a Ford fusion with ACP/AA, I stopped by the dealership and bought the car kit. Got the kit installed yesterday and the update finished today.

It's great to have, but no where as intuitive as the fusions. But for 196$ OTD and an hour in my garage, it was worth every penny.

Now I just need to figure out why the GPS is several miles off.

And for the record, taking apart a car less than a year old was nerve racking!

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I went for a drive the other day and didn't have time to play around with settings for the pic, but I found this old building awesome and had to snap a pic with Millie in it.
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Was the wiring for the trailer hitch difficult? The trailer hitch is one add on I will get for sure.

It wasnt fun, but i also ran it along the outside. I have been going back and forth about finishing it finally and think i am going to tear it all out and go along the inside as recommended. We will see. But i got from the back to the front wheel well in about 30 minutes.
 
Installed the update for ACP/AA and it was entertaining. At first the update wouldnt load and i freaked out when i saw the thread that said i had to do the software first. So i poured another glass of scotch and called in a night. On Sunday i had to go meet someone for a thing, and that took forever, so i attempted to install it again.

This time it loaded without an issue. After it was all said and done, the maps said i was in a lake that is over 30 miles away. Drove around for a bit humored by the fact i was "driving on water." After i finally reached my no longer amused stages, i did the three button reset and all is well.

AA is a lot buggier on this car than the last two rentals i used it on but it was worth every bit of the sub $200 i paid for it.
 
It wasnt fun, but i also ran it along the outside. I have been going back and forth about finishing it finally and think i am going to tear it all out and go along the inside as recommended. We will see. But i got from the back to the front wheel well in about 30 minutes.

Just completed trailer hitch wiring this weekend. The T-connector is slick - just click factory style connectors in line with the lights. But, did not want to run a power wire to the battery.
My preference for getting power to the trailer light module is to tap the accessory outlet on the right hatch area. You can do this with the hatch interior side panels just pulled loose. The rear accessory outlet is a dedicated circuit with a 15A fuse in fuse block 2 (under the dash left side near your left leg).
Details:
Power to the trailer light module is from the accessory socket on the right side of the hatch / trunk area.
The power wire to the trailer light module is a heavy black wire that has been soldered into the blue wire going to the rear accessory socket.
If there is no power at the trailer connector:
Go to fuse block 2 (under dash left side near your left leg).
Check fuse F3 (15A) third fuse from top on left side
 
Just completed trailer hitch wiring this weekend. The T-connector is slick - just click factory style connectors in line with the lights. But, did not want to run a power wire to the battery.
My preference for getting power to the trailer light module is to tap the accessory outlet on the right hatch area. You can do this with the hatch interior side panels just pulled loose. The rear accessory outlet is a dedicated circuit with a 15A fuse in fuse block 2 (under the dash left side near your left leg).
Details:
Power to the trailer light module is from the accessory socket on the right side of the hatch / trunk area.
The power wire to the trailer light module is a heavy black wire that has been soldered into the blue wire going to the rear accessory socket.
If there is no power at the trailer connector:
Go to fuse block 2 (under dash left side near your left leg).
Check fuse F3 (15A) third fuse from top on left side
So you kept all the wiring in the hatch area? That would be a much better approach!
 
Well, the time finally came. I hit 1 yr this month and just over 21K miles as i hit the date. Interesting to see that this car was supposed to be a patch between other vehicles, but even more now than before; i dont want to get rid of it. So my thoughts a year later..

Great car for the money. Still dont have the bug to do a whole lot to it, but plan on buying a bike rack and roof basket in the near future for upcoming plans. With the installation of AA/ACP, i barely use the home features much, if at all. Made it feel like a new car in some ways. The ride is still great and the tires are holding... for now.

There are some really annoying features, like the brake groans and city driving bs, but i learned how to deal with that better than i did in the past. The inside is starting to show why its a sub 30k ride, with more creaks and groans, but they are not terrible. My silverado made more noise for sure. The arm rest seams to be the nosiest of the interior.

All in all, its holding up great and with the addition of the rook rack, this thing has handled everything i threw at it. Looking back, i would have bought the same car but added AWD. I miss leather at times, but more so the cooled seats. Since thats still not an option, cloth has been fine.

The future for this ride now include rims when i need new tires, and some additional rack options.
Hope yall are having the same luck with yours.
 
Recently moved back to Florida and have been running the roads hard between Seminole and Brandon. Love the rack and the versatility. Here are a couple quick shots of her this weekend out fishing.

Parked in the sun:

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Something about having this image in the backup cam makes me smile:

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Side profile in Venice

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