Transmission Drain Plug Question 2012 MAZDA 5 Grand Touring

danielwd

Member
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2012 Mazda 5 Grand Touring
Is there an advised torque for putting drain plug back in transmission pan? I can't find torque specs, although the owner's manual does go into detail in how to check the fluid levels.

I haven't removed it yet, just planning for a drain/fill procedure tomorrow after seeing the dark brown color (83K miles) and realizing it's never been changed. I guess at the very least I can kind of gauge how difficult it is to remove the plug and attempt a recreation of the force necessary to remove when putting it back in.

Also, another thing. A local dealer sold me on "Service Pro - Global Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF" after I insisted upon buying the Mazda OEM fluid. It was significantly cheaper, but I am kind of regretting it now. I did check the specs on the fluid I found on a PDF listed on the web by the manufacturer, and it does meet specs for a Mazda M-5 transmission.

Thanks for any input in these matters, especially if anyone out there knows torque specs on the plug.
 
Here's what my copy of the workshop manual says:

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) REPLACEMENT [FN4A-EL]
DPE051700000W05
Warning
• A hot transaxle and ATF can cause severe burns. Turn off the engine and wait until they are cool
before replacing the ATF.
1. Remove the oil dipstick.
2. Remove the oil drain plug and washer.
3. Drain the ATF into a container.
4. Install a new washer and the drain plug.
Tightening torque
29.4—41.2 Nm {3.0—4.2 kgfm, 21.7—30.3
ftlbf}
5. Add the specified ATF until ATF level reaches
lower notch of dipstick type of ATF through the oil
filler tube.
ATF
Type: ATF M-V or equivalent
Capacity (Approx. quantity): 7.2 L {7.6 US qt, 6.3 lmp qt}
6. Ensure that the ATF level is in the HOT range (65 C {149 F}).
• Add ATF to the specified level as necessary.
 
Thank you for the information.

I gotta wonder if I really need a new washer every time I remove the plug?

By the way, I'd give you a million bucks for a copy of that workshop manual, or could you at least point me in the right direction to obtaining one, especially a digital one?
 
My 2012 (bought new), has 94K miles as of today.

I do all my own maintenance.


I changed the trans fluid at 60K. Then I changed it again at 88K. I am not going to change it again. I plan to keep the car to 150K.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I had already drained and refilled the system before seeing the comment about the new washer. However, I am going to wait until the summer and do it again. I am just going for a hint of red in my fluid. Right now, it is black. So, if I have to drain and refill several times to make it happen, so be it. My mind will be at ease with this approach rather than a straight flush, first because I don't like the idea of shifting gears with the car on to flush, and, second, I'm nervous about brand new fluid with no particles to help the gears catch after going more than 80K with nothing done to the fluid. We'll see how it works out. Of course, I'll report back.
 
Did a drain and fill this past weekend on our 2010 MZ5; did not see a washer on the drain bolt...and I'm pretty sure it's never been changed before prior to me doing it. Is this a 2nd gen thing?
 
Thanks for this post. Similar experience today...I have a 2009 with 82k and never anything done to the transmission (other than a computer replaced by a former owner) that I can tell. It was BLACK. And I had a washer, although I didn*t replace it. I drained 3.5 quarts and replaced it and will do so again in a few months. Fluid went from black to reddish dark brown. Thanks for the shop manual and all the info here.
 
The question about what to to torque a fastener often comes up on forums.
The best and first place to look is always the Factory Service Manual but even there you will find the standard torques value information for all threads and type of fasteners.
In the industry their really is not such thing as a descriptive fastener like a transmission drain pug.
If ever in doubt measure you fastener look for the hardness I.D. thread pitch is necessary and look at standard fastener torque values.
 
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