2016 CX-5 Parking Break Locked & Engine Surge

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kentukred

Member
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2016 Mazda CX-5
[FONT=&quot]I’m looking for some help with my 2016 Mazda CX-5 that recently experienced a left front end collision. The damage appeared to be cosmetic in nature and I thought I’d do some of the repairs. But initially I couldn’t get the engine to start at all. It appeared that the security system wasn’t recognizing the factory key. I was able to trouble shoot the issue and replaced a bad relay in the fuse box. Now that the I can start the car I’ve uncovered a couple new issues. The engine is surging so strong while in park that I’m unable to put it into gear. The RPMs stay around 2500 and the idle is terribly rough. Keep in mind that the impact did not get into the engine at all but did bust up the plastic housing on the fuse box and air cleaner housing. I’ve since replaced the fuse box and no wires appear damaged or severed. I was going to try and take the vehicle into a dealership to have the engine checked out (can’t find an independent local shop to look at it) but I can’t get the vehicle out of park to load it on a trailer because the parking break won’t release. Even when it appears to electronically disengage and the light goes off the switch, the vehicle still won’t roll when pushed. I’m assuming this is a safety mechanism? Do you have to put the vehicle into gear for the parking break to actually fully disengage? Is there any way to manually disengage the parking break? Would pulling a specific fuse release it? Does anyone have suggestions on the engine surging? At the minimal I'd like to get the vehicle rolling so that I could get the engine checked out by a shop.

Thanks[/FONT]
 
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You should only have to put your foot on the brake then press the button to disengage the parking brake. Also, the parking brake shouldn't effect the shifting in or out of park. Have you tried removing the little cover by the shifter and pressing the lockout button to shift into neutral?
 
Sounds electrical. Maybe impact knocked a ground loose or something else.
 
Somewhere on this forum there is a "maintenance mode" discussed where the rear pads are retracted from the rotor. Maybe do a search or perhaps some one can provide a link and maybe give it try.
 
...and then if you can get the rear wheels free then you can have it towed from the front
 
madar said:
Somewhere on this forum there is a "maintenance mode" discussed where the rear pads are retracted from the rotor. Maybe do a search or perhaps some one can provide a link and maybe give it try.
Click to expand...

@madar, that's a great suggestion! And @yrwei52, thanks for the link for the maintenance mode procedure. I'll give it a try on Friday when I'm out of the office to see what the result is. At this point I'm just wanting to get it rolling enough to pull it up onto a rollback. I wish there were a local shop that would take a look but I guess I'll end up at the stealership. The engine issue has me a bit terrified and I'm just hoping it isn't somehow going to need replacement after the seemingly light accident.

@Seminole, The engine will start and I'm able to take the gear shift into Neutral while the engine is running. But while in neutral and with the parking brake seemingly disengaged, the wheels still appears to be locked up.
 
If you have check engine light on you need to read the codes to see what else is damaged. There are several sensors in/near the airbox that you should check, air temp, mas air flow, air pressure etc. If you let it warm up, does it slow down?
 
GAXIBM said:
If you have check engine light on you need to read the codes to see what else is damaged. There are several sensors in/near the airbox that you should check, air temp, mas air flow, air pressure etc. If you let it warm up, does it slow down?
Click to expand...

I haven't managed to let the vehicle run for more than a minute or so at a time just because it's idling at such high RPMs and sounds rough. There were several indicator warning lights on the cluster prior to getting a relay replaced that was locking out the key and ignition. Once I replaced that relay and managed to get the vehicle to start I ran the codes. Here's what I came up with:

U0100 Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A
P1886 4x4 Initialization Failure
U3003 Battery Voltage
B1238 Speaker Amplifier
P0507 IAC System RPM Higher Than Expected
U2005 Vehicle Speed
B13D3 PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) Transmitter
U0115 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM B
 
kentukred said:
I haven't managed to let the vehicle run for more than a minute or so at a time just because it's idling at such high RPMs and sounds rough. There were several indicator warning lights on the cluster prior to getting a relay replaced that was locking out the key and ignition. Once I replaced that relay and managed to get the vehicle to start I ran the codes. Here's what I came up with:

U0100 Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A
P1886 4x4 Initialization Failure
U3003 Battery Voltage
B1238 Speaker Amplifier
P0507 IAC System RPM Higher Than Expected
U2005 Vehicle Speed
B13D3 PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) Transmitter
U0115 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM B
Click to expand...
Since the codes indicate Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A/B and you had front end collision, you may have loose PCM plug like Chris_Top_Her experienced. Remove the PCM connector plug, spray some electronic contact cleaner, and re-seat it fully.

Chris_Top_Her said:
DTC P061B:00 Internal control module torque calculation performance problem
DETECTION
CONDITION
l Indicates an error occurred in the PCM.
l There is a malfunction in the sensor input signal
to the PCM.
Diagnostic support note
l This is a continuous monitor (CCM).
l The check engine light illuminates if the PCM
detects the above malfunction condition during
the first drive cycle.
l FREEZE FRAME DATA (Mode 2)/Snapshot data
is available.
l DTC is stored in the PCM memory.
FAIL-SAFE FUNCTION l Restricts the upper limit of the engine
POSSIBLE CAUSE
l PCM connector or terminals malfunction
l PCM malfunction

Make sure your ECU(PCM) plug is fully seated; I had something similar happen on my last cx5 where after I pushed on it that never happened again. Make sure none of the wires on the maf sensor harness are knicked. The ECU (aka PCM) is right next to the battery. take the little metal cover off and make sure the connector is fully seated. Also I see you live in BC so check for salt crud.

those "U" codes are pretty much always data signal related or otherwise related to electrical issues

Since you have a code reader, send me your email address and I'll forward you a copy of the workshop manual
Click to expand...
 
I agree with above suggestions. I would put a volt meter on the battery to make sure the alternator and voltage regulator are working correctly. I would also check fuses under the hood and near left foot in foot well.
 
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