VersaTuner - tuning software for Mazdas
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Thread: Shift control rod

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by flowfish View Post
    ...Picture below of the part I'm talking about, the left red arrow (not my car, just found the pic online).
    The pictures I posted (stole) were of the pin on the right arrow... a square bolt and a hex nut..
    Although you may want to replace those bushings too.

    You may be able to cut, or drill, the round head off the pin and push it out easily.

    Last edited by pcb; 03-29-2018 at 09:22 PM.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Quote Originally Posted by stormkyori View Post
    I've heard fire is good but don't have a torch handy...
    They're relatively cheap...

    Just don't set your car on fire.!!
    Always watch for gas lines and the gas tank..



    This is Canadian dollars too... You guys will pay less than ten...
    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2018 at 12:15 AM.
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  3. #18
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    Thinking about it some more,... That pin may be like a "shoulder bolt" and the holes through the "yoke" may be different sizes meaning the pin may only press out in one direction.

    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2018 at 10:44 AM.
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  4. #19
    Registered Member

    protege5

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    I just used a big ass drill bit and went to town. Drilled the entire damn thing out. It is a lot easier if you take the entire thing out of the car and do it on a workbench. I had a spare 1/2" or 9/16 grade 8 bolt laying around (whatever size is in there, I'm sure someone here knows) that the bushings fit perfect on. I did have to grind the head of the bolt down some to keep it from rattling on the cross member when it was installed (it's a pretty close fit) but that was right after I first bought the car a few years ago and it's been perfectly fine ever since. I believe I also used nut that was designed for exhaust manifold studs (self-locking) and I put a ton of red loc-tite on there as well.

  5. #20
    Registered Member

    2003 Protege5

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    Lafayette, lA
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    Just wanted to follow-up, I was able to remove the whole shift rod, the bolt that connects to the shift linkage came off really easy. I feel bad for you guys that are rusted out, mine was really clean (South Louisiana car). Per the instructions in the Corksport 3rd link kit I ground the thinner head off the riveted pin, then had to drill a good bit of the head out until it finally spun. I banged on it for a while with a punch with a 17mm socket under the other side of the pin until it finally came out. It was a real PITA and I kinda bent/scratched the yoke up but it came out. I replaced all the bushings and man what a difference. No more play in the shifter when it is in gear, no more rattle, everything feels so much tighter and responsive. Thanks for all the help! I've got a before/after video, will try to figure out how to post it.

    Here is the before/after video:

    https://streamable.com/ctg1q
    Last edited by flowfish; 04-11-2018 at 11:50 AM.

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