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Thread: Shift control rod

  1. #1
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    Shift control rod

    Hello, could use some direction....my shifter is rattling like crazy, I investigated and found that the bushings around the riveted pin on the shift control rod are gone and there is a lot of play and rattle on it...pretty sure that is my problem. Only issue is that it is a riveted pin so I can't just unbolt and replace the bushings. I asked a Mazda dealer and they said they only sell the entire shift mechanism from the actual shifter down and both rods....for $350. I've checked around at pull-a-part places with no luck...any other ideas? Any way to replace the bushings around the pin? Picture below of the part I'm talking about, the left red arrow (not my car, just found the pic online).

    http://www.carinstructions.com/wp-co...on-linkage.jpg





    Last edited by flowfish; 03-29-2018 at 03:29 PM.

  2. #2
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    So far as I remember, you drill out the pin (or a grinder)
    Replace the bushing then install a bolt in place of the pin.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #3
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

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    The biggest problem is that the pin goes through a metal sleeve and likes to rust solid then you have to pound the pin out and maybe remove the whole assembly to press it out.
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  4. #4
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    Really so I just take out the pin and replace with a normal nut/bolt? I really wonder why they didn't do that in the first place. Guess I should replace the bushings all around if I'm going that far right?

  5. #5
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Talk to horseflesh... He's done it.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...arm&highlight=
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  6. #6
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by flowfish View Post
    Really so I just take out the pin and replace with a normal nut/bolt? ...
    Yes,... Ideally,
    But the pin likes to seize in the metal sleeve then everything starts to spin.
    The yoke is on the outside making it hard to reach in between.


    A pic for reference ( not our car ..but...)

    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2018 at 10:36 AM.
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  7. #7
    Swollen Member Natey's Avatar
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  8. #8
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Yea,.. That's it ^^^
    Lots of reference pics..

    But,... If he's in the salt belt, it's a whole different story..

    Removing the factory pin can be a huge PITA...
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    I just found that Corksport sells a kit for it, just going to get this and try to drill the riveted pin out, we'll see how it goes, thanks for the help!

    https://corksport.com/protege-3rd-link-bushing-kit.html

  10. #10
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    This is what you guys in California see when you take your shift linkage apart...







    This is what us in the salty north east see...

    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2018 at 10:37 AM.
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  11. #11
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    I'll be doing this after I do the shifter bushings first. thanks for the pics, gives you a couple points of view. What do you refer to hen you say yolk tho. That's confusing as hell. You basically want to grind or cut off the square from the bolt? I did see the tab you guys mentioned on the picture. I always go with the flow and deal with things on the fly but that tends to make things take even longer.
    2002 Mazda Protege5 Pure White

    MS Door Sills & Shift Knob | OBX Short Shifter with CorkSport Bushings | Goodridge SS Brake Lines | CorkSport 3rd Link Mod | MPV Wiper Stalk & Tribute Nozzles | S2K Antenna | Cabin Air Filter Mod | Black Rear Bumper Guard | 205/55R16 Kumho Ecsta 4XII on 03 P5 Wheels

    Haven't gotten to the more serious mods. It's been mainly about maintenance work.

  12. #12
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by stormkyori View Post
    .... What do you refer to when you say yolk tho. That's confusing as hell. You basically want to grind or cut off the square from the bolt? I did see the tab you guys mentioned on the picture.
    The tab is welded to the "yoke"...

    If you use a grinder to remove the square, there is about 3 or 4 threads left catching on the "yoke".

    You can pry the yoke open to release it, but you'll bend it an have to bend it back.

    This pic of my strut may shed some light...
    The bolt head broke off and the remaining threads were catching on the strut..

    I had to spread it open with a chisel then reach in with my saws all to cut it and remove it.
    (the strut being like a yoke)






    You only want to remove the metal in the crack...
    You don't want to cut into the "yoke" or the shift linkage.

    Same goes with drilling... If you're going to drill through an inch of material, you better be dead square or you'll drill into the "yoke" or shift linkage..

    PS... I'm pretty sure the metal sleeve is one piece with our OEM bushings... (unlike Cork sports version)



    Remember, your pin may just pop right out in two minutes,.. or it can be seized and take two days or weeks if the pin is seized as hell and won't remove from the rusted sleeve.

    Start soaking it down with penetrating oil either way ,.. even if your doing the work a month from now.
    Throw some heat on it too when it's time to work on it ,... Fire is always good !!
    Last edited by pcb; 04-12-2018 at 12:19 AM.
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  13. #13
    Registered Member 915_P5's Avatar

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    I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.

    MSP HEADLIGHTS, MSP DOOR SILLS, MAZDASPEED AXLE BACK, S2K ANTENNA, REAR WIPER DELETE, FRONT PLATE RELOCATOR, TEIN COILOVER/STRUT SUSPENSION, OBX HEADER 4-1 W/ FOULER TRICK, K&N DROP IN FILTER, SPORT SHIFTER BASE, FRONT LIP, DIY FOGLIGHT MOD, COMPASS/TEMP MIRROR

  14. #14
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 915_P5 View Post
    I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.
    What he said ^^^

    Just a few bucks for four and a regular bolt...



    KIA parts # for reference...
    Last edited by pcb; 03-29-2018 at 07:19 PM.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    The tab is welded to the "yoke"...

    If you use a grinder to remove the square, there is about 3 or 4 threads left catching on the "yoke".

    You can pry the yoke open to release it, but you'll bend it an have to bend it back.


    You only want to remove the metal in the crack...
    You don't want to cut into the "yoke" or the shift linkage.

    Same goes with drilling... If you're going to drill through an inch of material, you better be dead square or you'll drill into the "yoke" or shift linkage..

    PS... I'm pretty sure the metal sleeve is one piece with our OEM bushings... (unlike Cork sports version)



    Remember, your pin may just pop right out in two minutes,.. or it can be seized and take two days or weeks if the pin is seized as hell and won't remove from the rusted sleeve.

    Start soaking it down with penetrating oil either way ,.. even if your doing the work a month from now.
    Throw some heat on it too when it's time to work on it ,... Fire is always good !!
    Ahh ok I kinda see what youre getting at. Good to know and most def with the penetrating fluid.
    I've heard fire is good but don't have a torch handy.

    Quote Originally Posted by 915_P5 View Post
    I did the kia bushings on the shifter, really easy to do and less expensive then buying the brass/copper bushings.
    I have those as they came with the short shifter I purchased from a fellow user but in the end it's plastic. I rather have something more durable. Plus all the work i've done to the car has been a restore in a sense. Swapping out all the parts that wear out.
    Last edited by stormkyori; 03-29-2018 at 07:20 PM.
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