2018 CX-5: Speaker upgrade help and what's under the dash grill

Well done.

Long story short, my Mazda 3 got traded in for a mini-van so the CX-5 is now my daily. The basic stereo is in the CX is getting to me, I like my music and I drive a lot...

I want to do an underseat sub just to fill the frequency range and replace the front speakers to improve clarity. Keep it simple, run them off of deck power - I don't need to blow the doors off anymore but want to hear all (or more) of my music. Nice to see others working on current gen audio.
 
Yeah, I'm surprised nobody has put the info on the door panels and what's behind there. I've looked and looked. I might do that today to see before I buy. I'll look up the Polks and see what they're about. There isn't anything on my pillars, but supposedly there are on the Touring 6-speaker setup so I figured I'd surface mount or cut into it. Been reading up on that too. We'll see.

There is a post by anchorman there he attaches a PDF file for 2017 model showing two pairs of 6,5 inch for front door and a same size speaker pair for rear doors and a pair of tweeter at the A pillar in 2017 model (I did not find the post right now but I will search for it). That is what I have. And mine is a "vision plus" model sold in Sweden. I have even bought 2 pairs of Hertz co-axials 6,5 inch speakers for the four doors and a silk dome tweeter pair for the A pillar. I will change all the speakers when the temperature here gets above 18 degrees centigrade out side. It would be nice if you could post a few more photos of both the door card removal and the speaker change as it would help all in the forum, those without the Bose system. I was wondering why you did not use the plastic surround of the old original speaker for mounting your new speakers; instead of cutting out new templet on wood. All you had to do was to tear out the cheap paper cones and reuse the old connectors for the wires.

OK found the Pdf file. see attached file.
View attachment Ent no bose.pdf
 
Last edited:
I believe high sensibility and low impedance are a couple of main reasons gen-1 CX-5 owners preferred Polk Audio for speaker-only upgrades.

I have bought Hertz DCX 165.3 co axials rated at 120W, 4 ohm, 93 dB and they should do. Not mounted yet due to winter weather out side.

Here is a pdf on what holds the door cards on the 2017 CX-5, also from anchorman. Good to know if you are going to remove it for speaker change.
 

Attachments

  • Door front trim.pdf
    872.4 KB · Views: 527
Last edited:
Yeah, I'm surprised nobody has put the info on the door panels and what's behind there. I've looked and looked. I might do that today to see before I buy. I'll look up the Polks and see what they're about. There isn't anything on my pillars, but supposedly there are on the Touring 6-speaker setup so I figured I'd surface mount or cut into it. Been reading up on that too. We'll see.

Yes anchorman has attached two PDFs files earlier showing what holds the door card together and another that shows speaker for 2017 model. Check out my post above.
 
I have bought Hertz DCX 165.3 co axials rated at 120W, 4 ohm, 93 dB and they should do. Not mounted yet due to winter weather out side.

Here is a pdf on what holds the door cards on the 2017 CX-5, also from anchorman. Good to know if you are going to remove it for speaker change.

Oh cool, I missed those two. The one about the speakers is good, but we don't have tweeters in the A-pillars in the Sport trim. I'm not sure about the Touring trim/Grand Touring trim without Bose.

The front door trim info is great! Wish I had it before. I'd swear there were more clips than that though. Plus I thought I had posted pics of those but I guess not. I'll do that now.
 
Last edited:
Disassembly photos

Here are more photos:
First for the location of the screws on any of the four doors, pull out the silicone/rubber mats in the door pulls and the plastic tabs behind the door lock handles. For the door lock handles, I just stuck my finger in the little hole on the bottom-rear corner and pulled them out. Easy to push that back in when all put back together.

33vkydz.jpg


6xxffb.jpg


Here are the two wire clips that attach to the door buttons. The gray one is easy, the white one a bit harder to remove.:

axzg4o.jpg


This one shows the majority of the front door:

21j9gd3.jpg


and here's a pic of the additional clip that's at the top-rear of the front doors:

n4y2yb.jpg


This is the inside of the front door panel:

1692hjn.jpg


The rear door comes out with the same method of the two screws as per the front door, and takes less force to remove it.

Here's a pic of the rear door, and as you can see some of the round clips remained in the door so I bought a trim removal kit from Amazon and went back in and pulled those out and put them back in their retainers in the door panel. I didn't damage any of them beyond useability.

i6ecg7.jpg


Finally, here's the back of the rear door panel:

x6j3eu.jpg


I'll upload some pics with measurements of the speaker holes and back of the speaker grilles next chance I get.
 
Here are

I'll upload some pics with measurements of the speaker holes and back of the speaker grilles next chance I get.


Thank you for the pictures. Looking at the front and rear speakers, the rear ones certainly look smaller in your car, but the file posted by anchorman about the 2017 model states otherwise (as being 6,5 inch in both front and rear door). Have Mazda changed that too or are there many models and combinations that make generalization impossible!
 
Thank you for the pictures. Looking at the front and rear speakers, the rear ones certainly look smaller in your car, but the file posted by anchorman about the 2017 model states otherwise (as being 6,5 inch in both front and rear door). Have Mazda changed that too or are there many models and combinations that make generalization impossible!

Front and back speakers are identical. I used the same template on front and back. So 2017 and 2018 seem to be the same way. As a side note, I put in a trunk organizer thing in it today and noticed two grilles in the trunk. Didn't think to take a picture of them. Anyone know what that is off the top of your heads? I'll take it apart if nobody knows. Almost looks like vents, but doubt that.
 
I was able to take out the speaker connector clips using an exacto knife to push the pin holding each connector in that clip (two per clip). I then was able to just use some 18-gauge wire I had laying around to connect each speaker to the existing connectors. I first tested for negative/positive using a volt meter and then put red wire into the positive and red heat shrink wrap on that, then black for the negative. I just soldered the wires to the terminals on the speakers as I didn't have the appropriate connectors. Mounted it all again. It sounds great even though I've still got to do the front-left combo.

.

Grateful if you could tell us how to connect the positive and negative side of each original wire from the head unit to the speaker. What colour were the positive wire and the negative wire from the head unit for the front and rear speakers? I know the polarity of my new speakers but it is the wire from the head unit that bugs me.
You mention testing with the voltmeter and I presume you are testing the polarity of the wires going into plastic connector from the head unit. Did you have the radio on to test that? Can you describe the method in more detail please. I do not want to blow the fuse or the radio.
 
Anyone know what that is off the top of your heads? I'll take it apart if nobody knows. Almost looks like vents, but doubt that.

Not vents but speaker grills for the 10 speaker Bose system.

Do you have a part number and manufacturer of the stock speakers from the doors now that you have them out? I'm asking to see if I can get the spec's from them.
 
Ok, so I took the doors out and looked in there. There are two connectors that come off rather easily once you find the right clips on them to push in. The gray one is easy, the white one is towards the back of the door.

I know this is a bit off topic but as you had the door apart I figure you might know how to help me here. We just picked our CX-5 up from having a dent repaired in the drivers door. They had to replace the wrap (outer skin sheet metal) which means they had the the door apart. The top back of the door panel is loose and it looks like the white clip (looks rectangular) and the round one towards the middle aren't clipped. In your description about putting that white one back together does this need to be done with the door panel back off? Or can I fix it without taking the door back apart? We're going to call the shop tomorrow but I want to be equipped to fix this myself if they won't.
 
I know this is a bit off topic but as you had the door apart I figure you might know how to help me here. We just picked our CX-5 up from having a dent repaired in the drivers door. They had to replace the wrap (outer skin sheet metal) which means they had the the door apart. The top back of the door panel is loose and it looks like the white clip (looks rectangular) and the round one towards the middle aren't clipped. In your description about putting that white one back together does this need to be done with the door panel back off? Or can I fix it without taking the door back apart? We're going to call the shop tomorrow but I want to be equipped to fix this myself if they won't.

You'll need to take the door off to put it back together. Somewhere in this thread there is a PDF with the instructions on how to remove the door panel properly. Part of the instructions is to not pull the door panel too far away from the door while before pulling it up to get it fully apart. This is because of that clip you're describing. I've heard elsewhere in this forum that the rectangular clip is unique to Mazda/the CX5. So hopefully they did not break it while disassembling it, such as by pulling too far out. Fortunately I was careful even though I didn't know about that odd clip until after taking it apart.

When putting it back together I guided it into that clip after putting in the pin that's toward the top-front of the door panel. If the round clips are off, you may have a hard time putting it back together properly and may have to take the round clips off the door and put them back in the door panel to get the right fit. Can you see if that white rectangular clip is broken? One of my pictures has a very good shot of it. Also, according to the instructions you should take the clip off the door and put it back into the door panel prior to reassembling the door. Be careful if you choose to fix it yourself, the round clips do not come out easily, and I haven't tried the rectangular clip. If they've damaged it and you break it more, etc. etc.
 
Grateful if you could tell us how to connect the positive and negative side of each original wire from the head unit to the speaker. What colour were the positive wire and the negative wire from the head unit for the front and rear speakers? I know the polarity of my new speakers but it is the wire from the head unit that bugs me.
You mention testing with the voltmeter and I presume you are testing the polarity of the wires going into plastic connector from the head unit. Did you have the radio on to test that? Can you describe the method in more detail please. I do not want to blow the fuse or the radio.

Radio on and used the volt meter to see how it would read positive. Had to turn it down to millivolts, like 20 I think. Once it shows positive, your negative end of the voltmeter is the negative side, etc. I should have taken pictures, but I didn't and it's been too long to remember. When I redo my front-right side and finally get around to the driver's front I'll take pictures of those and describe positive and negative. I won't be going back to the rears unless I decide to put foam around them to guide all the sound into the cabin.
 
Not vents but speaker grills for the 10 speaker Bose system.

Do you have a part number and manufacturer of the stock speakers from the doors now that you have them out? I'm asking to see if I can get the spec's from them.

Here you go:
j0jfo6.jpg
 
You'll need to take the door off to put it back together. Somewhere in this thread there is a PDF with the instructions on how to remove the door panel properly. Part of the instructions is to not pull the door panel too far away from the door while before pulling it up to get it fully apart. This is because of that clip you're describing. I've heard elsewhere in this forum that the rectangular clip is unique to Mazda/the CX5. So hopefully they did not break it while disassembling it, such as by pulling too far out. Fortunately I was careful even though I didn't know about that odd clip until after taking it apart.

When putting it back together I guided it into that clip after putting in the pin that's toward the top-front of the door panel. If the round clips are off, you may have a hard time putting it back together properly and may have to take the round clips off the door and put them back in the door panel to get the right fit. Can you see if that white rectangular clip is broken? One of my pictures has a very good shot of it. Also, according to the instructions you should take the clip off the door and put it back into the door panel prior to reassembling the door. Be careful if you choose to fix it yourself, the round clips do not come out easily, and I haven't tried the rectangular clip. If they've damaged it and you break it more, etc. etc.

Thanks, it definitely doesn’t look like it’s broken from what I can see. The door panel also doesn’t sit flush because that’s unhooked and blocking it. If it were broken from being pulled off I think I could push it flush.
 
Radio on and used the volt meter to see how it would read positive. Had to turn it down to millivolts, like 20 I think. Once it shows positive, your negative end of the voltmeter is the negative side, etc. I should have taken pictures, but I didn't and it's been too long to remember. When I redo my front-right side and finally get around to the driver's front I'll take pictures of those and describe positive and negative. I won't be going back to the rears unless I decide to put foam around them to guide all the sound into the cabin.

Thank you. It would be nice if you took a few more photos while doing the front door speakers, specially the driver's side since it is said to be the most difficult side, possibly due to more electrical connectors there. I am eager to change my speakers too but the out side temperature is still too cold to work with the car.
 
Thanks, it definitely doesn’t look like it’s broken from what I can see. The door panel also doesn’t sit flush because that’s unhooked and blocking it. If it were broken from being pulled off I think I could push it flush.

You're welcome, and I'm glad it isn't broken! By the way, I didn't say it earlier, but your question was definitely not off-topic. I'm hoping to jam as much info into this thread as possible about removing the doors, speaker changing, etc. Someone else put a how-to together for removing the dash. I might have to figure out how to move this over to the how-to section once I get this done if someone thinks that's appropriate.
 
I found it was easiest to remove that white clip and slide it onto the door panel before putting the panel back on.

panel slides over white clip here.
CuA57xy.jpg


use a flathead to pop out. Held in by tabs and pops into place when u put the door back on
fZKMzTw.jpg
 
Just wondering if there's any difference from the UK SportNav with the Bose system. My front door speaker is 6.5", The rear door speaker is 5-5.5", rear pillars, and central dash is 3.5". Tweeters 1.37" (~35mm) + Sub.
After that, I'm planning to order the following:
Hertz Dieci DCX 87.3 Sensitivity 92 30W 4ohm - Central dash and rear pillars;
Hertz Dieci DCX 130.3 Sensitivity 93 40W 4ohm - Rear doors;
Hertz Dieci DSK 165.3 Sensitivity 93 80W 4ohm - Front doors and A pillar's tweeters.
About subwoofer and amp for the subwoofer, not sure yet, possibly deciding after checking how the system performs before pulling the trigger on this one.
Few questions, if anyone can kindly help:
Just replacing the stock speakers, what is the overall feedback? When I did that to my Kia Sportage, with the Infinity sound system, because the stock had such low ohm, the final result was disappointing, a better quality, for sure, but had to increase the volume to about 50% more for the same result. Had to install an amp and run all cables straight from it, totally bypassing the OEM amp.
If an amp is needed, if I have to run the cables from it to the speakers, bypassing the Bose amplifier, how can I split the signal to each channel? I was planning to use one Pioneer GM-D9605 (at 4ohm 4x75W + 1x350W for sub). I assume that one channel per each front door/tweeter, and one channel per rear door/rear pillars. What about the central dash?
Appreciate any suggestions.
 
Quick update: considering if (IF) the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 works with the CX5 2017-2018, which I believe it works, anyone willing to bypass the Boss Amp, can do it. Isn't the easily task but I found out few things (at least for the Sport Nav version of the UK):
As mentioned before, the speakers are:
Central Dash - 3.5";
A Pillar - 1" Tweeter (mount is a bit bigger, so I think that a 35mm would fit in the original slot;
Front doors - 6.5"
Rear door - 5-5.25"
D Pillar + 3.5"
Sub Box - 5"?

About bypassing the amp: Once installed the PAC AOEM-MAZ2, connecting it to the amp, the feed from the amp to the:
* Front Doors - First the connector from the car's boby, not the door yet. There's 4 small clips holding the connector under the rubber grommet. You'll have to disconnect the grommet from the connector, with a thin object (something that won't scratch the paintwork, press against each pin. Once the plug is disconnected, using a guide cable or a cable tae, you'll find a gap next to one of the connector's border that will allow you to run a cable. Note that the cable has to run from inside the connector as if going outside the rubber grommet won't seal properly the gap and water may ingress. After that, you'll remove the door trim. There's plenty of detailed guides how to do in this forum. Once removed, there's a square-shaped grommet were the cables run from the door to the car. Disconnect it, tem a grey connector is visible. There's 4 clips holding the cables in place closing the connector. Disconnect them, them you'll be able to run the new cables using the same gap as the other cables.
* Rear Doors - You'll have to remove the lower trim which cover the seat belt mechanism. (just the lower part of the B Pillar). Once removed, you'll have to disconnect the rubber grommet to expose the connector. There's only 2 pins holding it in place. Here the work is harder. You may have to disconnect the stuff holding the cables to the pin, as it allows you to "maneuver" the connector inside the vehicle, which you'll need to install the cables. You'll note that there's few empty connections in that connector, but no gaps to simply run the cable. Some more advanced DIYer would create those connections in both ends of the connector and sorted. I'll go for the reckless mode. Using a very thin screw driver, you may be able to poke through those two connections without damaging the connections next to it. Note that the screw driver and the cables used later to feed the speakers have to be thin. The connection to the door is similar to the front doors, the only difference is that instead the cables coming straight from the door to the vehicle, there's a terminal which would connect to the B Pillar's connector. Note that there's about 3 empty connections there, same as the Pillar's connector. Same method. Don't try to run the cables using the upper gap were the connector have a clip as it may break the clip or don't allow it to connect properly.
For the tweeters, central dash speaker and D pillar speakers the connection is a walk in the park.
I've ordered the bits and will update with pictures, as would make more sense the method I'm describing.
The idea is to avoid cutting cables. The only mod that won't be reversible is the stock door speakers as they'll be used as bracket for the new speakers.
 
Back