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Thread: Bosch ST3300 Oil Filter - Fits 2016 but won't work for 2017??

  1. #61
    Registered Member RepeatMazda's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lbear View Post
    Here is a video showing the internals of the Mazda OEM oil filter. As the video shows, it lacks an anti-drain back valve and it lacks complete coverage so the oil doesn't always get filtered. That leaves me a little uneasy . There are better filters out there. Remember, Mazda does NOT make its own oil filters, it outsources to the cheapest manufacturer.
    This isn't accurate, I know the guy in the video states that, but he's unfortunately mistaken. The bypass valve forms a seal on the center tube at the dome end, this ensures that oil will have two routes of entry back into the engine; through the filter media or if the bypass valve opens.

    Use the Mazda filter with confidence.
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  2. #62
    Registered Member Lbear's Avatar

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    Well, I returned the Bosch filter and bought the Mobil 1 extended performance filter (M1-108A). My Mazda dealer only had the VALUE oil filter, not the Japanese version.

    I did my first oil change @ 1,500 miles. It's just my habit for the past 30 years of vehicle ownership to empty the oil in a new engine before 2,000 miles since a new motor has a lot of break in metals and machining debris circulating. GM's were notorious for this. The new Corvettes mandated an oil change after 500 miles since the oil filter would get clogged with silicone and other materials. Plus the oil was sitting in the vehicle since it was built in Japan back in August 2017, almost 7 months ago.

    The stupid drain plug gasket was stuck to the drain plug since it was painted back at the factory. Took a while to finally free it off of the drain plug. The factory oil filter was the Japanese Mazda version, which is a very nice filter. It looked identical to the Mobil1 except for a blue valve at the bottom of the Mobil1 filter. BITOG highly recommended Mobil 1 extended performance.

    I used Mazda Moly oil in the quart bottles. Oil is 1/2 way on the dipstick, just like the factory fill was. I won't do the next oil change until 6,000 miles from now.

  3. #63
    Registered Member RepeatMazda's Avatar

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    Good choice on the Mobil filter and early oil change. If you look at my UOAs there's definitely some elevated wear metals from the factory, which is normal. I would highly recommend that you change the drain plug with a hex head, makes it much less likely to strip out. This is an option from Amazon.
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  4. #64
    Registered Member erhayes's Avatar
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    I prefer the Allen head drain plug and Mazda does also. Much less likely to over-tighten and mess up the oil pan. I use a torque wrench to tighten so no problem for me. Ed

  5. #65
    Registered Member Lbear's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by RepeatMazda View Post
    Good choice on the Mobil filter and early oil change. If you look at my UOAs there's definitely some elevated wear metals from the factory, which is normal. I would highly recommend that you change the drain plug with a hex head, makes it much less likely to strip out. This is an option from Amazon.
    Thanks. I noticed the 2017+ takes more oil than the 2016 did. Is that true?

    The 2016 took around 4.4 quarts while the 2017+ takes around 4.8 quarts, almost 5 quarts.

  6. #66
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erhayes View Post
    I prefer the Allen head drain plug and Mazda does also. Much less likely to over-tighten and mess up the oil pan. I use a torque wrench to tighten so no problem for me. Ed
    I made sure to use the torque wrench as well. Can't really go wrong there.
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  7. #67
    Registered Member RepeatMazda's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lbear View Post
    Thanks. I noticed the 2017+ takes more oil than the 2016 did. Is that true?

    The 2016 took around 4.4 quarts while the 2017+ takes around 4.8 quarts, almost 5 quarts.
    4.4qts for the 2l and 4.8qts for the 2.5l is stated for both '16 and '17 manuals. I have the 2.5l and use a 5qt jug and call it a day. The extra .2qts is 6.4oz, the engine will never know.
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  8. #68
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lbear View Post
    Thanks. I noticed the 2017+ takes more oil than the 2016 did. Is that true?

    The 2016 took around 4.4 quarts while the 2017+ takes around 4.8 quarts, almost 5 quarts.
    I put 5 qts in my 2014. Manual called for 4.8, but 5 seemed to be the good spot for it.
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  9. #69
    Registered Member yrwei52's Avatar
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    Arrow Bosch ST3300 Oil Filter - Fits 2016 but won't work for 2017??

    Quote Originally Posted by RepeatMazda View Post
    Good choice on the Mobil filter and early oil change. If you look at my UOAs there's definitely some elevated wear metals from the factory, which is normal. I would highly recommend that you change the drain plug with a hex head, makes it much less likely to strip out. This is an option from Amazon.
    Honda specifically said in the owner's manual that don't change the factory-filled engine oil early and use the standard OCI for the first oil change. It's because Honda uses special break-in oil from factory and you don't want to drain it too early. Good factory oil filter should catch those damaging metal shavings with no worries.

    As for hex head drain plug, unless you can find one with larger round flange to cover aluminum washer, which all hex head drain plugs do from other automakers, I wouldn't recommend it.

    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Yeah, OEM drain plug has no magnetic at the tip. I confirmed that when I had an oil change several days ago. It's black paint.

    However after seeing your comparison picture which makes me believe we should keep the OEM Allen drain plug. OEM Allen drain has larger flange to make sure evenly deforming the aluminum washer with specified torque. 19mm hex drain plug actually applies more force to the aluminum washer with smaller flange area contacting the washer using the same torque, hence the inner blurred edge of your aluminum washer. My used washer doesn't show any sign of that. OEM Allen plug also has non-threaded extension (painted in black) helping us to guide the plug into the drain hole and prevent possible thread stripping during initial turn. OEM plug also has longer length of thread area which may be necessary to match the thread length of the drain hole.
    Quote Originally Posted by tomcat1446 View Post
    I agree with yrwei52, my OEM aluminum washer doesn't look like that either (red arrow indicates uneven load spread from the smaller flange hex bolt), I'll stick with the larger flange allen bolt that came with the car



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    The “special “ break in oil for Honda is no longer made by Idemitsu which was a high Moly oil. For the US market it’s made by Exxon Mobil and the moly content has been reduced. Moly comes in various forms so going by ppm is not enough.

    Changing the factory fill is a personal decision. If the owner struggles between wanting to change and Honda saying no, then just buy the Honda oil and change it. Most oils have moly in them anyway.

  11. #71
    Resident barbarian ColoradoDriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puyapim View Post
    The “special “ break in oil for Honda is no longer made by Idemitsu which was a high Moly oil. For the US market it’s made by Exxon Mobil and the moly content has been reduced. Moly comes in various forms so going by ppm is not enough.

    Changing the factory fill is a personal decision. If the owner struggles between wanting to change and Honda saying no, then just buy the Honda oil and change it. Most oils have moly in them anyway.
    Rabbit trail for a second here, if you'll indulge me...

    Is it pronounced moly (like the name Molly), or moly (mole-y)???
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  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Honda specifically said in the owner's manual that don't change the factory-filled engine oil early and use the standard OCI for the first oil change. It's because Honda uses special break-in oil from factory and you don't want to drain it too early.
    Good thing I don't drive a Honda

    Seriously though, while this is true of Honda. Mazda's factory fill isn't a break-in blend. It's plain Jane high Moly 0w20 that you can purchase from any Mazda dealership or in the form of Idemitsu from a parts supplier. Honda does (did?) this because the factory fill is different than Honda 0w20 that you purchase from the dealer.
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  13. #73
    Registered Member Lbear's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by yrwei52 View Post
    Honda specifically said in the owner's manual that don't change the factory-filled engine oil early and use the standard OCI for the first oil change. It's because Honda uses special break-in oil from factory and you don't want to drain it too early. Good factory oil filter should catch those damaging metal shavings with no worries.

    We are talking about the Mazda engine, not the Honda. There's nothing wrong with changing the factory fill on the Mazda, as it's just Mazda Moly, what I put back into it.

    Why bring up Honda in the conversation when it has nothing to do with Mazda? Plus Honda 1.5T engines blow up. Go to the Honda CRV websites and see all the problems they are having with the 1.5T so even the factory oil fill and factory filter can't stop a bad engine design that causes it to blow up the motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColoradoDriver View Post
    Rabbit trail for a second here, if you'll indulge me...

    Is it pronounced moly (like the name Molly), or moly (mole-y)???


    Molly

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Puyapim View Post
    Molly
    Thank you. That's how I pronounced it in my mind, but I wasn't sure if that was correct or not.
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