I have the TEKONSHA wiring and I am hoping to install this week so I will let you know. This kit is a plug & play so no splice taps.
2017 CX5 - which trailer wiring kit: Curt or Tekonsha
- Thread starter Lbear
- Start date
I have the TEKONSHA wiring and I am hoping to install this week so I will let you know. This kit is a plug & play so no splice taps.
Can you provide a part number and url from where you ordered it?
Thank you Lbear, I'm waiting with bated breath.
If I can locate a crimp or solder on pin that I cold attach to the power wire, like the one that comes on the OEM kit on the red wire, I'm tempted to buy the Tekonsha kit, but power it the same way as the Mazda OEM kit.
I'd love to see pictures.
Replying to my own post, apparently the part number is: Hitch Harness - 00CT-88-C57H
https://mazdashop.ca/products/trailer-hitch-with-harness-mazda-cx-5-2017-2018
It looks like they only sell it in conjunction with the hitch, but in another thread, someone said they called and asked for just this part and got it added to the website. Looks like it is gone again. I've send an inquiry to ask if it can be ordered
Looks like they sell the 2016 and older harness on its own, different part number.
OK, so I installed the TEKONSHA plug and play trailer light kit. I used the instructions from the Mazda OEM kit as they are way more detailed on how to remove the back interior panels than the TEKONSHA instructions.
The drivers side panel must be removed almost completely. This is not hard to do just be careful. I HIGHLY recommend getting a rigid plastic trim removal tool kit from Amazon. They sell for like $10 but are life savers and prevent damaging trim.
The passenger side panel only needs to be slightly removed.
The TEKONSHA kit is SUPER easy to install. Simple plug and play. Use wire loom and zip ties to protect and tie down the wires.
Now the POWER run to the battery. That was easier than the panel removal. The wire runs nicely down the drivers side trim panels. You have to take off the drivers rear so all that is left is removing the drivers front bottom door trim panel. Easily pops off. Wire was run in plastic loom and then up to the drivers side under the dash. From there all you have to do is run the wire through the rubber boot that sits under the dash. I used a rigid plastic fishing wire to get through. Then once inside the engine bay just wire it up to the positive bus terminal. There is a 15 amp fuse that is used to protect the circuit.
About 5 hours of labor.
Like I said, I prefer plug and play vs splice terminals. Running the power wire to the battery is the easiest part of the job. Just run it along the interior drivers side trim panels. It's safe and protected there. Just put it in wire loom.
The drivers side panel must be removed almost completely. This is not hard to do just be careful. I HIGHLY recommend getting a rigid plastic trim removal tool kit from Amazon. They sell for like $10 but are life savers and prevent damaging trim.
The passenger side panel only needs to be slightly removed.
The TEKONSHA kit is SUPER easy to install. Simple plug and play. Use wire loom and zip ties to protect and tie down the wires.
Now the POWER run to the battery. That was easier than the panel removal. The wire runs nicely down the drivers side trim panels. You have to take off the drivers rear so all that is left is removing the drivers front bottom door trim panel. Easily pops off. Wire was run in plastic loom and then up to the drivers side under the dash. From there all you have to do is run the wire through the rubber boot that sits under the dash. I used a rigid plastic fishing wire to get through. Then once inside the engine bay just wire it up to the positive bus terminal. There is a 15 amp fuse that is used to protect the circuit.
About 5 hours of labor.
Like I said, I prefer plug and play vs splice terminals. Running the power wire to the battery is the easiest part of the job. Just run it along the interior drivers side trim panels. It's safe and protected there. Just put it in wire loom.
Thank you Lbear. So you run it inside the drivers side floor trim? Can you link or name the trim removal kit you liked from Amazon?
I've ordered the DrawTite class III hitch and the Canadian Mazda OEM harness from my above post. It is now listed individually for sale: https://mazdashop.ca/products/trailer-hitch-harness-mazda-cx-5-2017-2018
It's $104 Canadian, which is $84.36 US, shipped to the US.
I've ordered the DrawTite class III hitch and the Canadian Mazda OEM harness from my above post. It is now listed individually for sale: https://mazdashop.ca/products/trailer-hitch-harness-mazda-cx-5-2017-2018
It's $104 Canadian, which is $84.36 US, shipped to the US.
Here is the kit, it's a lifesaver:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
The power wire will start at the box of the hatch and then route it along the door sill area. There is plenty of room there. Just get 1/4" wire loom and encase the wire in it, just like the factory does with all the power wires. The plastic door sills pop out easy with the tool.
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Another thing I like about the Tekonsha kit is that the trailer lights have power even when the car is not running. This is especially helpful if you need to leave the parking lights on and leave the vehicle. For example, you are on the side of the road at night and you want the trailer/vehicle to be seen without running the engine.
In the pic you can see a rubber boot on the firewall. Just run the power wire through there. A small cut must be made to push the wire through and then it's an easy run to the battery terminal.
In the pic you can see a rubber boot on the firewall. Just run the power wire through there. A small cut must be made to push the wire through and then it's an easy run to the battery terminal.
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Thank you for the pictures and the link. I see the same brand of tools with an additional metal one for just a couple dollars more, I think I'll get that one since the factory harness instructions call for one like that.
I ordered the Canadian factory harness, so I don't think I'll be running the wire to the battery. If it hadn't been on offer, or if I run into trouble, your power run pictures would be extremely helpful.
I ordered the Canadian factory harness, so I don't think I'll be running the wire to the battery. If it hadn't been on offer, or if I run into trouble, your power run pictures would be extremely helpful.
Here are the pics of the TEKONSHA wiring and the trailer. The wiring is flat so it just sits between the hatch gaskets. I like it also that it tucks away when not in use in the spare tire area.
Also, my house/garage is custom built and I designed it for an 8 foot tall door. Most spec homes are 7 feet tall which would cause the hatch to strike the door header. I hate builders who stick in 7 foot tall doors. So lame and it causes a lifetime of headaches.
Also, my house/garage is custom built and I designed it for an 8 foot tall door. Most spec homes are 7 feet tall which would cause the hatch to strike the door header. I hate builders who stick in 7 foot tall doors. So lame and it causes a lifetime of headaches.
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Looking good. I saw that and wondered, why are you backing into the garage with the hatch up. Duh, installing the trailer stuff indoors.
That looks like a good sized trailer. How much does it weigh? We're only rated at 2K towing capacity.
Thanks. Trailer weighs around 1,000 LBS. Actually the CX5 can handle 3,500 LBS of towing but US regulations limit it to 2,000 LBS. The same CX5 in Europe is allowed to tow 3,500 LBS with no other modifications. So it's not the vehicle that is limiting it, just the US highway regulations.
With that being said, I only tow about 2,000 LBS max since I never needed to tow more. I might have towed around 2,500 LBS back with my 2016 but it did fine. Just allow for greater length for stopping and you might have to wind it out on incline grades.
I'm glad it's working for you. I wonder about such things. I believe the US is rated 1000 lbs without trailer brakes and 2000 lbs with brakes. Are you sure there are no other modifications on the European cars?
Apparently European trailers have a smaller ratio of the weight at the hitch.
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- 2017 CX-5 GT AWD
The higher eu rating is normal for many vehicles. Many speculate it is just usa over protection, as cars used to have higher tow ratings with less power. The EU cars are not modified differemtly.
I saw no trailer brake requirement on usa versions -all specs i have seen, say 2000 lbs but nothing else.
Its a little buried in the owners manual, but the following is a quote on 3-56 in a page headed (Before Driving Towing) of the online manual:
▼ Trailer Brakes
If the total trailer weight exceeds 450 kg (1,000 lb), trailer brakes are required. If your trailer
has brakes, make sure they comply with all federal, state, and local regulations.
Of course, lawyers and regulation nonsense but you are fine towing 2,000 LBS without trailer brakes. Just keep a wider distance for stops. I've towed many times, CX5, diesel trucks, etc. All without trailer brakes. Just be smart about it.
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- 2017 CX-5 GT AWD
Trailer brakes are nice, but not legally required anywhere i have lived. Towed many skid steer (bobcat) without trailer brakes. Not great on venicle brakes, but allowed. Yes, you have to be smart. (no bobcat towing with mazda )
My single axle utility trailer is not rated at much more then 2000 lbs gross weight, so not worried about over capacity. But i have oulled it for years without trailer brakes, and even with a load it rides fine.
Actually i know of no utility trailers of this size with trailer brakes built in. Mazda requirement seems silly and imposisble to meet.
