Buying a Mazda5 with 86k?

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mazda
Buying a Mazda5 with 86k? Post 2012 model

It has no maintenance records.
Sport model - 2013 model

Should I be concerned about Transmission? Dealers recommend every 30k Tranny fluid change - btw, does it have filter to replace as well?
Dealer might flush (vs drip and fill) - any tips here? What is the factory recommendation?

I never owned a Mazda but Honda - pls help me. Thanks
 
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It is fine if drives, take it to independent mechanic to check.
Mazda says fluid if lifetime. (consensus that the life time is rather short)
So far owners suggestion is to replace every 20k-40k miles. Personally I do it every two years.
Most stay away from Mazda fluid and use Castrol Import or Redline ATF.
No filter is present.
You can check the how to section where you can find an in-depth topic on the discussion about it.
 
Most stay away from Mazda fluid and use Castrol Import or Redline ATF.

highly agree, use redline ATF fluid. I recommend replacing the transmission fluid filter as well instead of a drain/fill alone.

at that mileage, check the suspension components for wear. ensure transmission shifts smooth and engine runs well.
 
Most stay away from Mazda fluid and use Castrol Import or Redline ATF.
You can check the how to section where you can find an in-depth topic on the discussion about it.

Do they stay away from Mazda fluid due to price or quality?
I was reading - somewhere someone said use Mazda fluid towards the end of the thread - so which product is the best for 2013 mazda5 sport?
 
use redline ATF fluid. I recommend replacing the transmission fluid filter as well instead of a drain/fill alone.
.

This is a 2013 Mazda 5 - which redline ATF fluid do u recommend - link please? Because there might be several variations on Redline - do not want ot use the wrong one.

Do they come with a transmission fluid filter from factory - is it a filter or strainer? Are there any videos on removing the filter?
 
86k is fine. My 2009 has 145k, and the only engine issues I've had are needing to replace the MAF sensor (typically a 100k item), and changing one coil pack (also typically a 100k item). You might have to worry about the air conditioning and suspension, but most of those issues should be solved at 2013.
 
86k is fine. My 2009 has 145k, and the only engine issues I've had are needing to replace the MAF sensor (typically a 100k item), and changing one coil pack (also typically a 100k item). You might have to worry about the air conditioning and suspension, but most of those issues should be solved at 2013.

The MAF sensor and changing one coil pack - would they still be an issue considering a revised engine in 2012?
How much are they - what is exactly this coil pack?

Thanks @phunky.buddha
 
Does the splash shield needs to be removed to drain tranny fluid for the 2013 model?
How many quarts of Tranny fluid for 2013 model?

How often these vehicles get stolen - easy? Do i need a steering wheel lock?
 
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Mine is a 2012 bought new in 2011 June. Just turned 88K miles. My car is stock except for 2013 18" Mazdapseed3 wheels and tires from the beginning.

I have done all changes and filter changes myself at home. I am a long time Honda/Acura/lexus owner. Also have had 9 miatas. Don't expect Honda quality. I only bought it ,because wife didn't want Oddy/Sienna,and we like the better driving dynamics of the mazda5 and it cost me 19K cash$ which was dirt cheap. MSRP was 22K for mine, it is a Touring.

I have changed all brakes once
On second set of tires.
Twice Trans fluid


Aside from above maintenance (which is normal), the things that have went bad:
-2 door lock actuators (common problem)
-new shocks (Oem leaking)
-Rear struts recalled
-Suspension noises
-One battery

I would probably keep it another year or two, and then dump it for a Honda/Toyota. I am tired of the wind noise, low quality ford parts everywhere on it and overall poor build quality. No amount of fun driving dynamics (I have a few raw sports cars in the garage), outweighs the poor build quality for me.

Good luck in your search.
 
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Does the splash shield needs to be removed to drain tranny fluid for the 2013 model?
How many quarts of Tranny fluid for 2013 model?

How often these vehicles get stolen - easy? Do i need a steering wheel lock?
Yes, I removed splash guard. I just replaced my trans fluid again.

No one steals these things.
 
Does the splash shield needs to be removed to drain tranny fluid for the 2013 model?
How many quarts of Tranny fluid for 2013 model?

How often these vehicles get stolen - easy? Do i need a steering wheel lock?
no need for steering wheel lock as most modern cars come with immobilizers. Unless your car is worth a lot, highly desirable, or high demand for parts (which this car is none of that), no advance car thief will even take a 2nd look (I think it is great)


https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...ilter-Share-your-experience-on-the-Mz5!/page2
There is an ATF filter but it's purpose is not what you think; it is not a fine particle filter. You need to dope the trans pan, clean sealant (labor), replace with gasket. Unless you observe a lot of metal in the existing fluid or having shift/solenoid problems that you want to clean/replace, its no necessary to drop the pan or replace the filter. My suggestion (to all existing Mazda5 owners) is to simply buy an inline aux filter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Disconnect the ATF oil cooler inlet hose and insert aux filter (need to top off ATF). What you are trying to accomplish is a transfusion of your existing ATF (note the oil is still worn). Let the aux filter capture the ferrous particles (they have 15-20K? life). Once you feel enough time has passed, remove the aux filter and reconnect back to original setup. Drain/fill or use the trans pump to flush it with new oil. I would just recommend you to stick with OE fluid. FWIW, it does not hurt to add another aux filter to keep it clean.



Mine is a 2012 bought new in 2011 June. Just turned 88K miles. My car is stock except for 2013 18" Mazdapseed3 wheels and tires from the beginning.

I have done all changes and filter changes myself at home. I am a long time Honda/Acura/lexus owner. Also have had 9 miatas. Don't expect Honda quality. I only bought it ,because wife didn't want Oddy/Sienna,and we like the better driving dynamics of the mazda5 and it cost me 19K cash$ which was dirt cheap. MSRP was 22K for mine, it is a Touring.

I have changed all brakes once
On second set of tires.
Twice Trans fluid


Aside from above maintenance (which is normal), the things that have went bad:
-2 door lock actuators (common problem)
-new shocks (Oem leaking)
-Rear struts recalled
-Suspension noises
-One battery

I would probably keep it another year or two, and then dump it for a Honda/Toyota. I am tired of the wind noise, low quality ford parts everywhere on it and overall poor material quality. No amount of fun driving dynamics (I have a few raw sports cars in the garage), outweighs the poor material quality for me.

Good luck in your search.
Good summary for +'12 cars with one correction. I don't think the car itself is poorly put together as you can only do some much with cheap components. I would only recommend this car to someone with some knowledge of cars, willing to do basic maintenance, and get dirty if something goes wrong - 90% of issue/how-tos are known and identical to Mazda 3. If yes, this car can be a great buy.
 
I don't think the car itself is poorly put together as you can only do some much with cheap components. .
Yup. At this point in my life, not willing to put up with that anymore :)


For me the dynamic driving characteristic was the reason for the purchase. However, the cheap components are not worth the trade off. If it got 30MPG, I would say it is better than a Sienna/Oddy. But If buy a a 1-2 year old Oddy/Sienna today with less than 20K miles, for $25,000, which is built with better components, quieter, better build quality. I get the same MPG, but I lose the driving dynamics, gain the space.

Life is all about tradeoffs, and I am willing to make the tradeoffs :)

I was hoping to get 10 years out of my Mazda5. Its been 7 years. I am really pushing to make it to 9 years, but I feel 8 will be my max with it....
 
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A shop told me to get the Tranny filter too.
He wanted to drop the pan.

This filter is $60 on Amazon.

The car shifts fine - but oil is blakish with 80k on it. What is the best compromise?
 
Could u elaborate it a bit more?

Should I Not go with the Shops advice of dropping the pan, change the strainer (filter) and flush?

Correct. Please feel free to read the forum on this topic at length. The screen inside the tranny is really a lifetime.
If yo want a filter, add one. Stay away from flushing. Drain/fill 3 times with new fluid and add a tranny cooler.
 
Stay away from flushing. Drain/fill 3 times with new fluid and add a tranny cooler.

Why stay away from flushing?
How many quarts do I need each time?
Read about tranny ext filter not about cooler - appreciate a link?
 
Thanks all.

I ended up in going to dealer (but never will return) for flushing.
They said that they had to flush twice to get the color right - no extra. And the list price of their oil is $4.41 - retail $9.60.

But Redline is more expensive.
 
$4.41 seems reasonable. Just add cooler now and drain/fill a gallon youtrself every year or two.
 
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