Compare auto reliability with reliable results at TrueDelta.com!

Compare auto reliability with reliable results at TrueDelta.com!
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 47

Thread: Rear laterial mayham.

  1. #31
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    I think you should take your car to Krown Rust Control instead. (there's two outlets in Calgary).
    Then you don't have to remove the rust,... They just spray it on and it soaks in. They drill a few holes in the car and reach in with wands to get inside the pillars, doors, fenders, tailgate and all the hidden spots.
    It's synthetic stuff and is safe for rubber, paint and the environment.

    I Googled Cortex (I've never heard of it before) and it sounds like your car kinda needs to be close to rust free and that's not really possible especially inside the frame rails and pillars and such.
    It says it's intended to protect metal during shipping and storage and I wonder how it will standup to snow, salt, rain and crap from the road.

    Plus it only appears to come in a 5 gallon pail as it's smallest size and that would probably cost a butt load of money.

    I took my car straight to Krown the day I bought it and I get it done every year (9 years now).
    I'm sure my car would have completely decayed and be it the junkyard by now if I didn't do that.

    It cost $129 a year which I see as a small cost compared to a dead car.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #32
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    I use this stuff too...



    It's pretty good and goes on sale for $5-$6 a can at TSC.
    It's synthetic and rubber safe. But I still take it to Krown every year because they can reach spots that I can't get to.

    I wish they made an extender tube that was a few feet long... I made one by joining a bunch of red tubes together with shrink tube but it didn't work very good... It's too floppy.



    Fluid Film is another really good one but it can cost up to $20 a can.
    I bought a 4 litre can of it about 15 years ago for my last car.. I think it was $80.
    I took a bunch of body panels off and put it on with a paintbrush from the inside of the car.
    Last edited by pcb; 02-18-2018 at 11:25 AM.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  3. #33
    Registered Member

    02 protege5 ES 5dr

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Calgary,AB
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I use this stuff too...



    It's pretty good and goes on sale for $5-$6 a can at TSC.
    It's synthetic and rubber safe. But I still take it to Krown every year because they can reach spots that I can't get to.

    I wish they made an extender tube that was a few feet long... I made one by joining a bunch of red tubes together with shrink tube but it didn't work very good... It's too floppy.



    Fluid Film is another really good one but it can cost up to $20 a can.
    I bought a 4 litre can of it about 15 years ago for my last car.. I think it was $80.
    I took a bunch of body panels off and put it on with a paintbrush from the inside of the car.
    Lol love the extender idea.

    http://coratexdirect.com is where you can find that stuff mentioned. It's ment as a purge compound for plastic extruders lol but also according to the datasheet is also ideal for rust ablation.

    Tomorrow I am back on this challenge with the lateral arms ( our schedules just haven't aligned together or with our messed up weather ).

    I will do a test part cleaning with it and post results tomorrow. ( Have some headers that could use some love ).

    Thanks for your suggestions pcb always open to ideas. Still looking for those square locking Irwin vise grips, the one I've been able to find was the mini version. Lol also I have upped my game on the heat front, now I use oxegen and not propane.

  4. #34
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

    It's a polymer... It's dry.
    It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

    How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

    I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

    I have been drinking...
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  5. #35
    Registered Member

    02 protege5 ES 5dr

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Calgary,AB
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

    It's a polymer... It's dry.
    It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

    How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

    I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

    I have been drinking...
    I don't know. Haven't worked it out.

    Curious to see myself.

    On shift till 6am so as sober as that dictates for now. But I will crack one when I get home ( 6:30 am ) what would appear to be serious morning drinking will in fact be my dinner beer. Lol.

  6. #36
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    Krown uses oil under pressure as well as compressed air.

    It comes out like a fog or steam. It completely covers everything... All the spot welds and everything.

    He was spraying my front fender and "oil steam" came out near my tailgate.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  7. #37
    Registered Member

    protege5

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    237
    I was thinking about this some... cars that leak hefty amounts of oil never rust where the oil leaks. Has anyone tried using a paint gun or spray gun and maybe cut some bar&chain oil with some motor oil or something (so it's thin enough to spray but yet still thick and sticky) and spray the bottom of the car with that? I'd think a good coating of bar & chain oil would do as well, if not better than undercoating because it would seep into crevices and stuff where undercoating won't reach. We used to use those spray guns to spray adhesive so i'm sure oil wouldn't be too thick to work.

  8. #38
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    I used 10W30 on a car years ago. I used a spray gun of some sort. It worked pretty good but it sorta dried out before too long and it was a sloppy mess,.. I was covered in oil.
    Another bad thing was that it got on my rubber boots for my parking brake cables and they swelled up and turned to mush.

    Another thing I've tried is to mix 50% grease with 50% roofing tar and heat it on the stove to thin it out and make it spreadable then I spread it on with a paintbrush.

    That worked pretty good and it hardened up a bit so it wasn't so messy but was still "wet" enough for the grease to seep on to the metal and stay coated.







    The stuff is dirt cheap too... So you can lather the stuff on thick. The roofing glue was $12 and a few bucks for the grease.

    This stuff only works on the surfaces you can see and reach,.. It's still more than a smart idea to go to a place like Krown even if just once because the hidden spots are generally better protected and their spray doesn't wash or wear off in those spots.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  9. #39
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

    It's a polymer... It's dry.
    It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

    How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

    I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

    I have been drinking...
    I'm quite opinionated and passionate (and drunk) about rust. I've lost every car I've owned to rust and I pester everyone I know to go to Krown.

    Not too many people bother,... they'd rather spend the money on a car wash and eyelashes for their headlights.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  10. #40
    Registered Member

    protege5

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    237
    Have you tried any of those electronic anti-rust gizmos? I don't know that they actually work or if they're all hype but a friend of mine worked at a salt plant and had one on his F150 and swore by the thing

  11. #41
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    I've done some research on them and they simply don't work. The US government has shut them down a bunch of times basically as false advertising.
    It's right in the fine print that they don't protect bare metal... Only painted metal... Painted metal doesn't rust !!
    If you get a stone chip and rust starts, they won't cover it.

    The problem is that it is based on real science so a new company pops up and and introduces some new electronic wizardry and claims it works.

    " ...New car salespeople are not corrosion specialists. Corrosion research has found that cathodic protection can slow rust… but on boats, NOT CARS. That’s why corrosion experts say “Buyer Beware”! For electronic rust proofing to work, you need a completed circuit of protective electrons. In ships, the seawater completes the circuit. On bridges, the wet soil completes the circuit. On cars, the circuit is incomplete. “The only way to complete the circuit on all metal in your car is to drive into seawater or to be buried in soil!” (Corrosion-doctors.org). That’s why cathodic protection isn’t proven to work for cars..."

    Krown sent repeated requests to the makers of these devices asking for a workable test for their device because they always failed the test that they give their product.
    The companies have never responded.

    Your friend probably has a new truck and new vehicles almost always last the length of the paint warranty.
    Even our car did.. Then,.. Right on cue,.. Two months after the warranty expired, they rusted through.
    Last edited by pcb; 02-20-2018 at 01:58 PM.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  12. #42
    Registered Member

    protege5

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    237
    Makes sense. I never tried or looked into them to be honest, just heard word of mouth type stuff. Luckily there's no issues with rust here

    That pot on the stove looks delicious though. Think my wife would probably murder me if I tried to pull something like that lol

  13. #43
    Registered Member

    02 protege5 ES 5dr

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Calgary,AB
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by pb4ugotobed View Post
    That pot on the stove looks delicious though.
    Haha I was thinking the same thing lol I want to clean the spoon !

    So I have now dropped the sub frame from the other car. Wow so easy compared, at some point in time the owner did an under coating ala PCBs stove top brew. The bolts turned out with zero corrosion !?!? Both my grinders died though and I need to slice n dice endlinks. So shopping happens next.

  14. #44
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

    2002 mazda protege 5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    ontario, canada
    Posts
    3,905
    Good luck with it all.. And keep us updated.
    Sigs are visible only in your first post on a page. To change your thread display preferences, click here and enable 'Always Show Signature'.

  15. #45
    Registered Member

    02 protege5 ES 5dr

    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Calgary,AB
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Good luck with it all.. And keep us updated.
    So he drove out with a Shiney ( new to him ) sub frame and lateral assembly thanks to my parts car. Sort of upsold him struts, I installed tokico blues on Megan lowering springs. When he is back we are putting whites on the front also on Megans.

    Had zero issues removing his, was panicked for nothing. Could have been horrid, was six easy bolts. Lol. Go figure.

    Oh and my new best friend is "deep creep" from the makers of seafoam. That is the best penetrating oil I have worked with.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-01-2017, 08:05 PM
  2. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-27-2011, 12:08 AM
  3. WTB OEM protege MSP stock rear engine mount or RR-Racing rear inserts
    By meGrimlock in forum Completed Transactions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-12-2011, 10:31 AM
  4. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-31-2011, 03:51 PM
  5. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2006, 11:17 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •