Rear laterial mayham.

I will not complain about ever having to do anything to my car......................
 
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It looks like heat and even a vice grip should get the one out...
 
It looks like heat and even a vice grip should get the one out...

I was just thinking the exact same thing.

Or if it's completely seized, just drill it out and run a tap through it and call it a day.

I would also HIGHLY recommend a set of these. I've never met a bolt or stud they would not remove, no matter how damaged it was. Even break-off bolts on steering columns (Toyota had a recall on Avalon you had to remove the ignition cylinder from the steering column. you had to remove the snap bolts and these turned a nightmare of a job into a 10 minute job. These bolts are "safety" bolts that the head snaps off of them when they are torqued all the way down, just leaving a rounded head). https://www.losspreventionfasteners.com/store/products/tork-bolts/

The set I have has a lot more sockets than this, but this one is only $20 and should have all the common sizes most people would need for the "oops" such as above. 1/2" is plenty and the harder you turn the socket, the harder it bites into whatever is stuck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

And worst case, if it came down to it you could always weld another bolt with a head onto what is hanging out, wouldl be a dual benefit. It would not only give you a head to grab on to but also the heat from welding to whatever is hanging out would probably break it free as well.
 
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I remember posting that for others years ago but I don't have a set myself...
I really should get one.. Irwin is pretty good quality and the original inventor of Vise Grip's

I'm thinking the Princess Auto version might not cut it for this tool..



Another good tool is this... Get the Irwin version too..

It works great for something like brake lines so to don't have to cut them to get a socket on.

 
Awesome ideas, thanks everyone. I don't yet have a set of the bolt grabbers. That's a for sure item now for my garage.

I love those vise grip grabbers, I will look for those as well. Timely as I have been staring at my parts cars brake lines and wondering how those will come off.
 
I will not complain about ever having to do anything to my car......................
Lol, not complaining it's a pleasure to have spares to work on though, I WILL get it right.

Oh boy do I now know what to look for When buying these cars !

My daily is holding up quite well [emoji3] and have made steady improvements over last four ( !! ) years.

Excited to maybe eventually build another
 
I love those vise grip grabbers, I will look for those as well. Timely as I have been staring at my parts cars brake lines and wondering how those will come off.

The cool thing about the Vise Grips is that if your driving your car, you can still drive your car to the shop if they don't work... If you cut your brake line to try a socket, you have to get your car towed to the shop if it doesn't work.
 
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Lol, not complaining it's a pleasure to have spares to work on though, I WILL get it right.

Oh boy do I now know what to look for When buying these cars !

My daily is holding up quite well [emoji3] and have made steady improvements over last four ( !! ) years.

Excited to maybe eventually build another
Merely a cringe reflex seeing the rust people have to deal with. That's what I meant by not ever complaining about anything needing to be done underneath the car. Here's what my 15 yr old looks like under there.............never been cleaned under there either. Sorry, just clarifying what I meant.....

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Merely a cringe reflex seeing the rust people have to deal with. That's what I meant by not ever complaining about anything needing to be done underneath the car. Here's what my 15 yr old looks like under there.............never been cleaned under there either. Sorry, just clarifying what I meant.....

gtspec_arms02.JPG
Omg. Never thought I would say this but what a spot on under belly lol.

I think I am going to have to bite the bullet on my projects ( apart from MSP that is mostly rust free ) and get a media blaster set up with a compressor. My alternative rust fighter is a product called cortex and is super nasty. Haven't yet dropped that bomb.
 
I think you should take your car to Krown Rust Control instead. (there's two outlets in Calgary).
Then you don't have to remove the rust,... They just spray it on and it soaks in. They drill a few holes in the car and reach in with wands to get inside the pillars, doors, fenders, tailgate and all the hidden spots.
It's synthetic stuff and is safe for rubber, paint and the environment.

I Googled Cortex (I've never heard of it before) and it sounds like your car kinda needs to be close to rust free and that's not really possible especially inside the frame rails and pillars and such.
It says it's intended to protect metal during shipping and storage and I wonder how it will standup to snow, salt, rain and crap from the road.

Plus it only appears to come in a 5 gallon pail as it's smallest size and that would probably cost a butt load of money.

I took my car straight to Krown the day I bought it and I get it done every year (9 years now).
I'm sure my car would have completely decayed and be it the junkyard by now if I didn't do that.

It cost $129 a year which I see as a small cost compared to a dead car.
 
I use this stuff too...



It's pretty good and goes on sale for $5-$6 a can at TSC.
It's synthetic and rubber safe. But I still take it to Krown every year because they can reach spots that I can't get to.

I wish they made an extender tube that was a few feet long... I made one by joining a bunch of red tubes together with shrink tube but it didn't work very good... It's too floppy.



Fluid Film is another really good one but it can cost up to $20 a can.
I bought a 4 litre can of it about 15 years ago for my last car.. I think it was $80.
I took a bunch of body panels off and put it on with a paintbrush from the inside of the car.
 
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I use this stuff too...



It's pretty good and goes on sale for $5-$6 a can at TSC.
It's synthetic and rubber safe. But I still take it to Krown every year because they can reach spots that I can't get to.

I wish they made an extender tube that was a few feet long... I made one by joining a bunch of red tubes together with shrink tube but it didn't work very good... It's too floppy.



Fluid Film is another really good one but it can cost up to $20 a can.
I bought a 4 litre can of it about 15 years ago for my last car.. I think it was $80.
I took a bunch of body panels off and put it on with a paintbrush from the inside of the car.
Lol love the extender idea.

http://coratexdirect.com is where you can find that stuff mentioned. It's ment as a purge compound for plastic extruders lol but also according to the datasheet is also ideal for rust ablation.

Tomorrow I am back on this challenge with the lateral arms ( our schedules just haven't aligned together or with our messed up weather ).

I will do a test part cleaning with it and post results tomorrow. ( Have some headers that could use some love ).

Thanks for your suggestions pcb [emoji3] always open to ideas. Still looking for those square locking Irwin vise grips, the one I've been able to find was the mini version. Lol also I have upped my game on the heat front, now I use oxegen and not propane.
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I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

It's a polymer... It's dry.
It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

I have been drinking...
 
I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

It's a polymer... It's dry.
It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

I have been drinking...
I don't know. Haven't worked it out.

Curious to see myself.

On shift till 6am so as sober as that dictates for now. But I will crack one when I get home ( 6:30 am ) what would appear to be serious morning drinking will in fact be my dinner beer. Lol.
 
Krown uses oil under pressure as well as compressed air.

It comes out like a fog or steam. It completely covers everything... All the spot welds and everything.

He was spraying my front fender and "oil steam" came out near my tailgate.
 
I was thinking about this some... cars that leak hefty amounts of oil never rust where the oil leaks. Has anyone tried using a paint gun or spray gun and maybe cut some bar&chain oil with some motor oil or something (so it's thin enough to spray but yet still thick and sticky) and spray the bottom of the car with that? I'd think a good coating of bar & chain oil would do as well, if not better than undercoating because it would seep into crevices and stuff where undercoating won't reach. We used to use those spray guns to spray adhesive so i'm sure oil wouldn't be too thick to work.
 
I used 10W30 on a car years ago. I used a spray gun of some sort. It worked pretty good but it sorta dried out before too long and it was a sloppy mess,.. I was covered in oil.
Another bad thing was that it got on my rubber boots for my parking brake cables and they swelled up and turned to mush.

Another thing I've tried is to mix 50% grease with 50% roofing tar and heat it on the stove to thin it out and make it spreadable then I spread it on with a paintbrush.

That worked pretty good and it hardened up a bit so it wasn't so messy but was still "wet" enough for the grease to seep on to the metal and stay coated.







The stuff is dirt cheap too... So you can lather the stuff on thick. The roofing glue was $12 and a few bucks for the grease.

This stuff only works on the surfaces you can see and reach,.. It's still more than a smart idea to go to a place like Krown even if just once because the hidden spots are generally better protected and their spray doesn't wash or wear off in those spots.
 
I dunno... I'm still not buying it.

It's a polymer... It's dry.
It'll hold moisture underneath like a coating of paint...

How are you going to apply it inside the frame ??

I believe you need an oily creeping self sealing spray.

I have been drinking...

I'm quite opinionated and passionate (and drunk) about rust. I've lost every car I've owned to rust and I pester everyone I know to go to Krown.

Not too many people bother,... they'd rather spend the money on a car wash and eyelashes for their headlights.
 
Have you tried any of those electronic anti-rust gizmos? I don't know that they actually work or if they're all hype but a friend of mine worked at a salt plant and had one on his F150 and swore by the thing
 
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