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Thread: Rear laterial mayham.

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I don't think there is access to the weld nuts...

    I think you'd have cut a hole through the frame.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The bolts that hold the subframe to the frame don't show any corresponding nuts... I think they're buried and welded inside the frame rail.

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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    So now you need to remove the subframe from your friends car without breaking any bolts or you won't be able to mount the replacement,.. Correct ??

    So those were weld-nuts ?? I didn't know if they were used for such big bolts.
    Yes, correct. I am hoping that by going slowly ( very slowly ) and using a wrench not a ratchet, I won't break the weld nuts. If the bolts them selves break I am not totally boned as would be able to drill them out.

    Did I mention we looked at a 1.8l plan b ? Heh.

  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    ... If the bolts them selves break I am not totally boned as would be able to drill them out.
    Just thinkin ...

    If you do break a bolt and there is a bit of the stud left showing, you could cut a slot in it then put the flame to it which should be easier and more effective with the subframe out of the way.

    Then with a flathead bit in a ratchet handle you might be able to break it free. You could probably turn it in because the last few threads above the weld nut would be all rust.
    You could possibly thread it right inside the frame where it could bounce around inside and join the other rattles his car is probably making !!

    I don't think an impact hammer would be a good idea because it might break the weld.
    I've found that when the part starts to turn red, it's hot enough to break free.
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Just thinkin ...

    If you do break a bolt and there is a bit of the stud left showing, you could cut a slot in it then put the flame to it which should be easier and more effective with the subframe out of the way.

    Then with a flathead bit in a ratchet handle you might be able to break it free. You could probably turn it in because the last few threads above the weld nut would be all rust.
    You could possibly thread it right inside the frame where it could bounce around inside and join the other rattles his car is probably making !!

    I don't think an impact hammer would be a good idea because it might break the weld.
    I've found that when the part starts to turn red, it's hot enough to break free.
    Well one broke with 2cm out of the frame, the other broke with like 1cm of bolt still in frame/nut. There is so little left I believe that I could drill out the centre with high-speed 7/16 th's carbide and torque it out with a princess auto bolt extracting bit .

    Last edited by horseflesh; 01-24-2018 at 08:41 PM.

  6. #21
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    I will not complain about ever having to do anything to my car......................

  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post

    It looks like heat and even a vice grip should get the one out...
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    It looks like heat and even a vice grip should get the one out...
    I was just thinking the exact same thing.

    Or if it's completely seized, just drill it out and run a tap through it and call it a day.

    I would also HIGHLY recommend a set of these. I've never met a bolt or stud they would not remove, no matter how damaged it was. Even break-off bolts on steering columns (Toyota had a recall on Avalon you had to remove the ignition cylinder from the steering column. you had to remove the snap bolts and these turned a nightmare of a job into a 10 minute job. These bolts are "safety" bolts that the head snaps off of them when they are torqued all the way down, just leaving a rounded head). https://www.losspreventionfasteners....ts/tork-bolts/

    The set I have has a lot more sockets than this, but this one is only $20 and should have all the common sizes most people would need for the "oops" such as above. 1/2" is plenty and the harder you turn the socket, the harder it bites into whatever is stuck. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-...+extractor+set

    And worst case, if it came down to it you could always weld another bolt with a head onto what is hanging out, wouldl be a dual benefit. It would not only give you a head to grab on to but also the heat from welding to whatever is hanging out would probably break it free as well.
    Last edited by pb4ugotobed; 01-24-2018 at 10:00 AM.

  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I remember posting that for others years ago but I don't have a set myself...
    I really should get one.. Irwin is pretty good quality and the original inventor of Vise Grip's

    I'm thinking the Princess Auto version might not cut it for this tool..



    Another good tool is this... Get the Irwin version too..

    It works great for something like brake lines so to don't have to cut them to get a socket on.

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  10. #25
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    Awesome ideas, thanks everyone. I don't yet have a set of the bolt grabbers. That's a for sure item now for my garage.

    I love those vise grip grabbers, I will look for those as well. Timely as I have been staring at my parts cars brake lines and wondering how those will come off.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by i12drivemyMP5 View Post
    I will not complain about ever having to do anything to my car......................
    Lol, not complaining it's a pleasure to have spares to work on though, I WILL get it right.

    Oh boy do I now know what to look for When buying these cars !

    My daily is holding up quite well and have made steady improvements over last four ( !! ) years.

    Excited to maybe eventually build another

  12. #27
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    I love those vise grip grabbers, I will look for those as well. Timely as I have been staring at my parts cars brake lines and wondering how those will come off.
    The cool thing about the Vise Grips is that if your driving your car, you can still drive your car to the shop if they don't work... If you cut your brake line to try a socket, you have to get your car towed to the shop if it doesn't work.
    Last edited by pcb; 01-24-2018 at 09:43 PM.
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  13. #28
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    How's it coming along ???

    Did you get those studs out or did you go with the 1.8 l plan B ??
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  14. #29
    ......................... i12drivemyMP5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    Lol, not complaining it's a pleasure to have spares to work on though, I WILL get it right.

    Oh boy do I now know what to look for When buying these cars !

    My daily is holding up quite well and have made steady improvements over last four ( !! ) years.

    Excited to maybe eventually build another
    Merely a cringe reflex seeing the rust people have to deal with. That's what I meant by not ever complaining about anything needing to be done underneath the car. Here's what my 15 yr old looks like under there.............never been cleaned under there either. Sorry, just clarifying what I meant.....

    Last edited by i12drivemyMP5; 01-31-2018 at 02:57 PM.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by i12drivemyMP5 View Post
    Merely a cringe reflex seeing the rust people have to deal with. That's what I meant by not ever complaining about anything needing to be done underneath the car. Here's what my 15 yr old looks like under there.............never been cleaned under there either. Sorry, just clarifying what I meant.....

    Omg. Never thought I would say this but what a spot on under belly lol.

    I think I am going to have to bite the bullet on my projects ( apart from MSP that is mostly rust free ) and get a media blaster set up with a compressor. My alternative rust fighter is a product called cortex and is super nasty. Haven't yet dropped that bomb.

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