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Thread: Rear laterial mayham.

  1. #1
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    02 protege5 ES 5dr

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    Rear laterial mayham.

    So today I am helping a fellow p5 local out. His rear lateral looks like this. ( See picture ).

    I have a parts car avalible to him, how ever mine is a slightly less ( to coin PCB's turn of phrase ) rusted turd. And I am having problem removing the non shattered laterial. The nut is free but how does one remove the bolt ( pin ? ) It came free one the wheel nut end. Just fighting like a mo'fo with the pin through the rear sub frame.

    Any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

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    The one I am aiming to use as a replacement is this:


  3. #3
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I've never had mine apart (and I hope I never have to) but I think that bolt goes through a metal "sleeve" and the two are rusted together, so even if you get the bolt to move, they're still seized and will just spin.

    Some fire might help but I think the gas lines are right above it and that would be dangerous.

    All I can think of is your grinder again like the shifter linkage you did but that big cutoff wheel would probably hit the bracket... Maybe go in at a 45 angle ??

    Maybe get a cutoff saw (if you didn't already buy one) with a metal blade and cut the pin at both sides inside the bracket.
    If you hack away some of that rubber the saw blade may fit in there.

    A little bit like this... I had a bolt break and was catching on my strut,.. I wedged the saw blade in there and cut the stud.

    Last edited by pcb; 01-22-2018 at 08:33 PM.
    The Diagram Dude

  4. #4
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    ..And I am having problem removing the non shattered laterial.
    You can probably use the grinder and just sacrifice the bracket for that one then pound out the stud after it's removed,... Just like your shift linkage.
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    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Yea,.. There's that metal sleeve... I'm sure there one on both ends of the lateral link.
    The bolt and sleeve are fused together.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Yea,.. There's that metal sleeve... I'm sure there one on both ends of the lateral link.
    The bolt and sleeve are fused together.
    Yeah, so out of curiosity what would the part number be for the pin / bolt. I can find the lateral links them selves but no mention of hardware included. I am guessing a dealership part ?

    Lol so plan b we just looked at a clean protege DX that wasn't rusted to shit for $500 cdn. Don't want him to pull trigger to quickly.

  7. #7
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    There was a download for all the part numbers few years back but I lost the file and can't find it online anymore.

    You could probably buy something at a hardware store that will work... Shouldn't matter if there is threads or not inside the sleeve part.
    Take the nut with you and find something the right length that it threads on to.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    There was a download for all the part numbers few years back but I lost the file and can't find it online anymore.

    You could probably buy something at a hardware store that will work... Shouldn't matter if there is threads or not inside the sleeve part.
    Take the nut with you and find something the right length that it threads on to.
    Well, lol dropping entire rear sub frame from parts car, will see if I can't swap it as one assembly.

  9. #9
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I found all the info for our car,.. Including parts.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-MSP-MP3-also)
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    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by horseflesh View Post
    Well, lol dropping entire rear sub frame from parts car, will see if I can't swap it as one assembly.
    I hope you don't run into any weld nuts.. They love to break free and start spinning.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I hope you don't run into any weld nuts.. They love to break free and start spinning.
    Two of four down, first sub frame lol. Using box wrench not socket. Going slow heating and hitting with penetrating oil.

    Yeah and I realized as I stared at the manual, that it has parts listing. I mean derp. And thanks for the link as it is now on my phone as well. Heh.

    Realized that parts car is missing rear sway bar. Going to have investigate that further.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    I found all the info for our car,.. Including parts.

    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-MSP-MP3-also)
    Funny thing about this is; service manual states step one of removing that is removing sub frame.

    Ahem, step one... ( Pauses and wonders how I could have missed that first time out here. Wtf ).

  13. #13
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    Sub frame dropped. Broke two bolts but the nuts are still intact on the inside of frame ( thank god whew ).

  14. #14
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    So now you need to remove the subframe from your friends car without breaking any bolts or you won't be able to mount the replacement,.. Correct ??

    So those were weld-nuts ?? I didn't know if they were used for such big bolts.
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  15. #15
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    wouldn't you be able to just cut them off and weld new nuts to the frame? Seems like a lot less work to do that than to fight with all that rust... at least that way you could start with all new hardware and cost you all of about $2 at the local hardware store for some grade 8 hardware that won't rust like that.

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