Factory Bose Amplifier location in 2018 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring?

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2018 Mazda CX-9 GT, 2016 Hellcat Charger, 2015 GMC Sierra
Can anyone tell me where the factory bose amplifier is in the 2017/18 CX-9 Grand Touring is located? Does anyone have a wiring schematic for it? I'm trying to tap into the subwoofer signals pre-bose amp to provide the signal to an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer, but I can't find the factory amp anywhere in the car!

Thanks!
 
Just an update, I found the amp, it's under the passenger side front seat -- now the question is, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2017+ CX-9 amplifier? There's 3 plugs, 2 black and a larger green one in the middle of the amp. The wires don't match that of a CX-5 and a MazdaSpeed3 diagram i've found of a close to match year. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
bump to the top, still can't install this because i can't find the wiring diagram, anyone have it?
 
Does anyone know for a fact if the bose amplifier pinout for a 2018 CX-9 would be in the service manual? I want to make sure before I spend $20 for it!

I don't know for a fact with the 2018 manual since haven't seen it, but it is definitely included in the Gen-1 manual, so I think you can rest easy spending the money. It's way in the back of the manual after just about every other system diagram.

You could also call your service department and simply ask them if it's there before you buy. I suspect they would tell you as it's no skin off their nose one way or another if you pay to look it up.

If you buy gear from Crutchfield and others, they often will send you the diagrams you need for your specific vehicle for free.

Finally, you could always go old school and whip out the multimeter to map it out yourself since you're just looking for outputs. FYI, In the Gen-1 Cx-9 w/Bose, the included sub slaved off the speaker level outputs from the main amp after receiving line level from the head unit. It would be trivial to check if that is still the case and then you're off to the races.
 
Finally, you could always go old school and whip out the multimeter to map it out yourself since you're just looking for outputs. FYI, In the Gen-1 Cx-9 w/Bose, the included sub slaved off the speaker level outputs from the main amp after receiving line level from the head unit. It would be trivial to check if that is still the case and then you're off to the races.

This! i'm totally down to do this, but when i google how, i get absolutely no where, all if ind is "how to tune your amp" and other generic stuff like that. i have a multimeter, i'm just not sure how to use it to tell when the wires are "LF+" and "LF-" vs. another speaker -- is there somewhere you can direct me on how to do this and i'll totally spend the time to do it and provide the map at the end, for at least the 2018's.

Thanks!
 
This! i'm totally down to do this, but when i google how, i get absolutely no where, all if ind is "how to tune your amp" and other generic stuff like that. i have a multimeter, i'm just not sure how to use it to tell when the wires are "LF+" and "LF-" vs. another speaker -- is there somewhere you can direct me on how to do this and i'll totally spend the time to do it and provide the map at the end, for at least the 2018's.

Thanks!
Alright I have the factory bose subwoofer open, the white/red and white/green and the red and green go to separate voice coils on the factory subwoofer....anyone know which ones to tap into for the line output converter?
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Alright I have the factory bose subwoofer open, the white/red and white/green and the red and green go to separate voice coils on the factory subwoofer....anyone know which ones to tap into for the line output converter?

That BOSE is a DVC sub huh? Interesting.

I apologize in advance if this response is not helpful.

My standard advice is to have someone more experienced do your install. Unfortunately it is very easy to fry things in stock radio wiring harnesses (and the expensive head unit) and it seems that you do not have a lot of experience with car electrical circuits in general based on your questions so far, but I could be wrong. You do know that you'll need to run fused power all the way from the battery directly to that new amp/sub right? Or were you planning on ripping out the Bose and using its power? Have you ever done this before? Why are you doing this at all if you don't know how to test a wiring harness for outputs? So many questions... never mind.

I could run you through testing voltages, currents, ohm'ing out lines, etc., but it would be easier (for both of us) for you to educate yourself on a car audio forum or youtube. There are lots of videos about installing subs, tracing wiring, etc. I am surprised your search didn't help you.

Installing a 3rd party amp/sub is easy. Doing it right to actually get more than a booming nightmare for a result is much harder.

Pay Mazda and get the wiring diagram. It will be worth it. You already paid ~40k right?

Otherwise use your meter to find any 12v power leads to avoid, then get a crappy speaker from an old PC and touch the leads to the harness with music playing on either the left or right channel until you hear/see an in-phase signal. Test that signal for level and polarity and off you go.
 
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That BOSE is a DVC sub huh? Interesting.

I apologize in advance if this response is not helpful.

My standard advice is to have someone more experienced do your install. Unfortunately it is very easy to fry things in stock radio wiring harnesses (and the expensive head unit) and it seems that you do not have a lot of experience with car electrical circuits in general based on your questions so far, but I could be wrong. You do know that you'll need to run fused power all the way from the battery directly to that new amp/sub right? Or were you planning on ripping out the Bose and using its power? Have you ever done this before? Why are you doing this at all if you don't know how to test a wiring harness for outputs? So many questions... never mind.

I could run you through testing voltages, currents, ohm'ing out lines, etc., but it would be easier (for both of us) for you to educate yourself on a car audio forum or youtube. There are lots of videos about installing subs, tracing wiring, etc. I am surprised your search didn't help you.

Installing a 3rd party amp/sub is easy. Doing it right to actually get more than a booming nightmare for a result is much harder.

Pay Mazda and get the wiring diagram. It will be worth it. You already paid ~40k right?

Otherwise use your meter to find any 12v power leads to avoid, then get a crappy speaker from an old PC and touch the leads to the harness with music playing on either the left or right channel until you hear/see an in-phase signal. Test that signal for level and polarity and off you go.


All good and fair questions -- I've installed probably 6-7 aftermarket amp and subs into various cars, so i'm very familiar with running fused power for the amp, wiring it up, etc. but what i've always had that I DONT have in this particular install is the wires needed to tap the line output converter into. If I just had the diagram, i wouldn't need to do any of that (and i've always had the diagram, so it's been as simple as tapping into the correct L+/L- and R+/R- and going along with the install). For reference, here is my install that was done totally by myself in my daily driver truck -- It wasn't amplified from the factory, so it was pretty simple to replace the door speakers, add tweeters, get it wired to a 4 channel amp, and add the mono amp and subwoofers, along with an audiocontrol lc6i

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I can easily do these if I just know what wires to tap into. Clearly I dont know as much as some/most other installers, but i think i get by good for what i do know. I'm not opposed to learning anything I need to do this install, but I think i'm more unsure what to search for to get the information I need. I think where i'm getting confused is in the Mazda, it goes from the factory bose amplifier, into ANOTHER 2nd amplifier that's dedicated to the dvc subwoofer -- So in that scenario, would I want to tap into the factory harness BEFORE that dedicated subwoofer amplifier, or after? or does it even matter? Online, I found this that the colors at least match on the factory bose subwoofer amplifier, but I can't verify it's accuracy as I haven't tried it yet and it's coming from a bose spare tire subwoofer unit in an RSX. The light blue thats in the Mazda harness, i believe, is a 12v remote turn-on from what i've seen on other bose spare tire subwoofer harnesses:

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So you've been there done that - good. Now you're really killing me. (wow) Buy the manual access and get the diagram.

Mazda, like other brands, don't like to produce multiple wiring harnesses for separate audio options, so tapping into signal level outs from a stock amp and then running an amped sub is just fine with them. They also don't have to worry quite as much about shielding and attenuation with line level feeds going all over the car.

As for signal paths; always run your amps off the closest feed to the head end. So in short, tap in BEFORE the Bose sub (I don't know how you'd tap in after anyway).

Of course the audiophile in me says it's a terrible idea leaving the Bose sub in operation at all since you will undoubtedly be introducing phase cancelling/enhancing effects with the new gear. OTOH, you posted a pic of a typical thumper install so you may find the effects pleasing to your (soon to be impaired) ears. To each his own. (headbang)
 
Okay, for anyone that is curious, the cable that connects the bose spare tire subwoofer to the rest of the harness in the trunk, all of the wires needed to install a sub are there:

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red is subwoofer +
white is subwoofer -
green is remote 12v

then run power to the battery and ground to chassis ground and you're done. The system works great and sounds good. Hope this helps someone else looking to install a subwoofer in the 2018 bose grand touring cx-9!

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Good day to you hoping you can help me

Okay, for anyone that is curious, the cable that connects the bose spare tire subwoofer to the rest of the harness in the trunk, all of the wires needed to install a sub are there:

26452091588_4b8e9e5aab_c.jpg


red is subwoofer +
white is subwoofer -
green is remote 12v

then run power to the battery and ground to chassis ground and you're done. The system works great and sounds good. Hope this helps someone else looking to install a subwoofer in the 2018 bose grand touring cx-9!

26452094878_bcb4ca4304_c.jpg

Hi there I see that you have a 2018 Mazda CX-9 GT great vehicle I have one as well I am hoping you can help me out with my own ? I am looking to change the amp and the subwoofer can you help me with that and where did you get the box to put the subwoofer in the back like that
 
I have a 2000 watt amp and everything needed to install some subs, all I need to do is tap into those wires leading to the sub and I’m all set?
 
yes, you'll need a line output converter obviously, but the LOC negative signal wire is to the white wire in the harness, positive signal wire is to the red wire in the harness, and remote power on for the amp is to the green wire in the harness. you'll have to run pos to the battery obviously, and ground the negative to the chassis.
 
Ok so I took on the project yesterday, ran power wire from the battery, grounded with the bolt on the back seat, and tapped into the wires you said to with the converter and connected the rca cables. For some reason I can’t get it working. I’m wondering what I could be missing.
 
did you connect the remote power wire for the amp? you mentioned everything but that. whats it doing? is the amp even powering on? or powering on, but no sound?
 
This should be the same for my 2020 touring CX9 with 12speaker Bose system huh? Can you tell me what kind of LOC you used and how you connected it (or just post a pic)? Also, is the Bose amp&sub still working along with your additional amp and subs?
 
This should be the same for my 2020 touring CX9 with 12speaker Bose system huh? Can you tell me what kind of LOC you used and how you connected it (or just post a pic)? Also, is the Bose amp&sub still working along with your additional amp and subs?

i'm not sure, you'd just have to check the wiring harness. i'd guess if its the same, then it should work the same. I just used a cheap LOC off of amazon, something like 12 bucks? And how it's connected is literally in this thread, each wire, further up. the factory bose amp&speakers work just fine.
 
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