What have you done to your CX-9 today?

One thing to note is that if you've got the front parking sensors, the plate mount can trip the sensor that's right beside it. I have it mounted as far away from the sensor as possible, but I have to tilt the plate just a tiny bit to make sure it isn't in the sensor's "cone of vision". I considered this when shopping for a solution and the Rho-plate seemed to be the only tow-hook mounted product that provided the least risk of this happening.

I wondered about that. Good information, thanks.
 
I grabbed these off of Amazon, they are hub centric to fit our cars, fit perfectly, and had good finish to them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Product description

Spacer Width: 30mm each side
Quantity: 4 Pieces
Bolt Pattern: 5X114.3 to 5X114.3 (Equivalent to 5x4.5" Inch)
Center Bore: 67.1mm
Thread Pitch: 12X1.5
Spacer Type: Hub Centric w/ Hub Lip
This spacer set includes open end lug nuts to secure the spacers onto your factory hubs

Thanks so much AP3President for sharing photos and the link to the product. What sort of thread locker did you use?

So it looks like with the 30mm spacers, the front wheels stick out just a tick. Is that correct?
 
They do not stick out at the top, but pretty much follow the camber line from there so the road edge does hang out a little on the fronts. There is no annoying spray off the wheels even with all this rain, spray is contained in the wheel wells.

I used loctite blue as thread locker.
 
Got a front and rear dashcam in the mail yesterday. Front is hooked up and working, cable for the rear camera will be run in the coming days.

Edit: Also got a set of grade 5 titanium lug nuts in.
 
Last edited:
Installed a license plate bracket... loved it! More pics and info on the accessories and appearance section.

f608c9ace3c450e58efb2ff10345ad4a.jpg

0b38a2b8443caa47e14476199bda6f6e.jpg
 
Wife is taking it to a collision inspector today to determine how much damage was done and provide an estimate on the cost to repair.
 
Installed a license plate bracket... loved it! More pics and info on the accessories and appearance section.

Apologies for the silly question, but what is the benefit of a license plate bracket? It looks like it just raises the license plate up and off the body.
 
I fabricated a muffler delete exhaust last weekend. Super easy with minimum cutting of pipes. Using the materials I note here will result in outlets that are EXACLTY the right width with no cutting, coming out in the center of the bumper cutouts.

Tools list
grinder with metal cut off wheel
level (magnetic 10" works best)
tape measure
sharpie
ratchet strap or coat hanger (to support mid pipe from frame)
jack stands (to support pipes, not the car)
lift/jack stands/ramps (to support the car so you can get under it)
impact gun or ratchet (don't remember the size of the socket, but they unbolt from the cat side of the connection)
welder if you have one

Ordered the following
4 total (2 packages) @ 90" bends in stainless @ 2.5"x 0.65 - AMAZON 2 of Squirrelly 2.5" 90 Degree 304 Stainless Steel Mandrel Bend Right Angle Exhaust Piping (2 Pack) Sold by: MAPerformance
1@ 2.5 to 2.5 (x2) splitter/collector - AMAZON Magnaflow 10768 Stainless Steel 2.5" Exhaust Y-Pipe
2 2.5 inlet exhaust tips of your choice - a 4" diameter fits perfectly in the bumper cut out.
I am not a great welder, so I got 2 2.5" ID collars to weld the pipes to instead of butt welding the pipes - this helped with mock up and gave me something to tack to as well.
6 pack of exhaust hangers (weld on or clamp on)
Everywhere I welded you could use a 3" band type muffler clamp if you don't have access to a welder - you would need 5 muffler band clamps if you are using clamp on tips

- put the car up so you can get underneath it.
- strap the mid pipe to keep it in level position and not stress the hangars which are WAY back a the cat itself
- unbolt the muffler from the mid pipe at the flange and remove the 4 muffler hangars to remove the muffler (you are going to reuse these rubber hangers in the stock locations)
- cut the stock flange off the muffler ass'y as short as possible while leaving enough of a tail to clamp/weld to - about 5' from the flange, after the bend, is where I cut
- weld the flange to the single side of the collector (make sure your collector is level at the outlet side)
- reinstall the flange with the collector attached
- - back under the car --
- fit a full 90' bend into each of the outlet sides of the collector - * tack weld or clamp loosely - support with jack stands
- attach the next 90 so that it becomes an "S" and exits the bumper - tack or clamp loosely - support with jack stands
- here is where you MIGHT have to cut your pipe length depending on how far back your pipe terminates and how long your tips are, I cut 5" off mine but my tips were 10" long weld-on type slash cut ends which I set on a 90 so that the slash cut followed the body line of the bumper.
- final weld (off car)/ tighten clamps (on car)
- attach muffler hangers
- position, center, and install tips **

* note - if you have a trailer hitch (like I do) you will need to rotate your flange to 90' junction down about 5' and also the 90' to90' junction up about 5' so that the pipes clear the hitch mounting tab and come out the back level(this will make sense when you are under the car)
** from what I have read, tips should stick out 1-2 inches beyond bumper fascia so they don't "drone" at speed.

The result is a super mellow tone that burbles a little at start-up and sounds like there is motor everywhere else, not loud AT ALL. If I can figure out how to upload videos I will, but if you send me a PM I will send you video/ photos.
 
Apologies for the silly question, but what is the benefit of a license plate bracket? It looks like it just raises the license plate up and off the body.

Not a silly question... but its just that... it just raises the plate over the body so that its not in direct contact with it. Ive had something similar from factory on europeans made vehicles before. Just cosmetic, nothing more... purely based on preference.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Mike for the tips on imbedding video, created a you tube account and going to try it here

this is a stills to video of the pipes and fitment.
 
Thanks Mike for the tips on imbedding video, created a you tube account and going to try it here

this is a stills to video of the pipes and fitment.

Happy to help! Sounds good from the inside. Would love to hear how it sounds from the outside, if you get a chance.

I embedded the videos here just so that they're both on the same page.

 
Just changed my CX-9 to new WORK Durandal DD5.2 wheel. Front 20" 8.5 ET 33 | 255/50R20 , Rear 20" 9.5 ET 33 | 285/45R20.

othim8.jpg


2meyb0z.jpg
 
Nice wheels. However, the lighting in the photos makes the fender guards blend into the actual wheel gap, which makes the wheels look really small for the CX-9. Would love to see some pics in better lighting!
 
Nice wheels. However, the lighting in the photos makes the fender guards blend into the actual wheel gap, which makes the wheels look really small for the CX-9. Would love to see some pics in better lighting!

Hopefully this one is better:

iq8y1l.jpg
 
Did an oil change last night. I used a Mazda filter and washer, and filled with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. I put about 5.5 qts in (as other owners have done), and it looks like I overfilled by quite a bit. The oil level on the dipstick is about an inch higher than the max limit hole, lol. Will be stopping by Cdn Tire on my way home for a siphon to get the extra oil out.
 
I didnt know the stock turbo setup can have so much Induction and blow off noises with just changing out the intake!
a0c5c9dc2282dc445ecc9eae89d3a782.jpg
fa21aab049bc0f56f5288909798936c7.jpg
 
what intake is this, i've been looking for a while and couldn't find one. And it should fit a 2018 cx-9 right?

That's the CorkSport intake. Originally released for the Mazda 6, it will also fit on the CX-9. I had originally asked about compatibility when CS posted about the release of the Mazda 6 intake, and they confirmed it, then updated their website to include 2016+ CX-9s. They have a video of it installed on the 6, and it greatly increases the intake suction and blow-off sounds.


Thanks for posting pics to confirm fitment Benhui86! I knew for sure that you would be buying one once I heard the difference in sound it makes. What are your thoughts on the intake from the performance aspect? Does it make any noticeable difference in practical use? Also, while you were installing it, did it seem like there would be enough room in the CX-9 bumper for a cold-air style intake?
 
That's the CorkSport intake. Originally released for the Mazda 6, it will also fit on the CX-9. I had originally asked about compatibility when CS posted about the release of the Mazda 6 intake, and they confirmed it, then updated their website to include 2016+ CX-9s. They have a video of it installed on the 6, and it greatly increases the intake suction and blow-off sounds.


Thanks for posting pics to confirm fitment Benhui86! I knew for sure that you would be buying one once I heard the difference in sound it makes. What are your thoughts on the intake from the performance aspect? Does it make any noticeable difference in practical use? Also, while you were installing it, did it seem like there would be enough room in the CX-9 bumper for a cold-air style intake?

The throttle response and pick up feels quicker and CS claims a 11hp increase on their dyno. The noise is where you will see the biggest difference. Anything harder than light throttle at local speeds you will hear the induction and the blow off is even louder whenever you lift off while it is on boost even slightly. There is definitely space for a cold air box. The stock air box is MASSIVE compared to the CS SRI probably for sound suppression purposes.
 
Back