2013 CX-5 Power seat parts

banjroto

Member
:
2013 CX-5 Touring
Hi,

My driver side power seat, only moves forward/backward on the right side rail. After some troubleshooting I found the culprit. The connector flexible shaft on the left of the motor snapped.

Now the problem is where can I find a replacement? Besides from buying the whole power seat base.

Anyone have experience with this?

I will try Mazda Service tomorrow.
 

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Try car-part.com and call your local junkyards. I suspect any power seat for '13-16 would do. Might be cheaper then motor assembly from the dealer.
 
I have ordered parts from the people that advertise here, MedCenter Mazda. Even though they didn't have the parts in stock, the transaction went smooth. Call them.
 
So I figured it out, mazda tries to sell you the whole lower part of the power seat which sells for about 600$, when all you actually need is to replace the cable of the motor, google search : "motorcraft mm 1100", it'll show up a power seat motor with cables similar to the one we need, it cost about 70$ which is better than 600$, what you're going to do is simply swap the cables that broke (pull the broken cable out with a needle nose pliers, and insert the new ones), you will have to measure the length of the broken cable (this means removing the piece attached to the motor and the piece attached to the white circular part connected to the tracks, and connect both piece to find the measurement) and use that measurement to cut the replacement cable to the same length (I used a high speed cutter pneumatic hand tool from my Job and it came out flawless), you have to loosen some nuts that hold the motor in place in order to wiggle in the replacement cable in the motor and the tracks, make sure both sides of the tracks are even before installing.
 
Fixed. Thank you.

Update,

Found a matching part in ebay last week. Was out of town for business trip :

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Cost is $12 shipped.

Part arrive today and it match! Lucky me.
Problem solved.
Thank you everyone for all the input.
 

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BMW 2" Cable Also Worked for Mazda6

I decided to take a gamble and order the same BMW part for my Mazda6 when I had the same issue described above (left side of power seat would not move, right side would). Dealership quoted me at $1500 to replace "the whole bottom portion of the seat."

Decided to order the $12 part and took it to a local shop for the repair while I was at work. They fixed it within an hour for $100 or so.

Thanks for the discussion & advice!

Update,

Found a matching part in ebay last week. Was out of town for business trip :

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Cost is $12 shipped.

Part arrive today and it match! Lucky me.
Problem solved.
Thank you everyone for all the input.
 
Unless you have the most nimble hands in the world - no. You have to remove the seat to get to the motor which is under the seat cushion.
No more than 4 bolts. The only tricky bit:
If your seat has an air bag: Disconnect the negative battery lead, wait 1 - 5 minutes and then disconnect the air bag connector (usually yellow and also under the seat).
 
Hello community I just had this problem with my 2013 mazda CX5. I was looking for a replacement of the shaft and I found in Ebay an item which the seller stated that is a improved version of the shaft. Can some one let me know if this is the resal deal...?

 
Thanks to this thread I found out I have the same problem with the broken flexible shaft on the left side of the drivers seat.

I repaired it by sawing a bolt to 48mm long. I then square both ends of the bolt so that one side fit into the motor and the other into the gear.

When I first installed the new shaft it caused the whole thing to be very loud. I think the flexibilty of the OEM shaft dampens the vibration. So I took the shaft i made out again and wrapped electrical wire heat shrink around it. This made the shaft a little tough to put back into the motor and gear but it did the trick. The operation isn't as quiet as originally but it functions, isn’t too obnoxious, and was made from parts around the house. I measured the square shaft at 3mm x 3mm at end, approximately, and used my grinder to rough out the part. Cleaned it up with a dremmel.

Other materials may work better than a rigid steel bolt to provide flex.

I was thinking that if the other, longer side snapped then I could use one of those metal shish kabob skewers. Those might be just the right fit with some heat shrink for dampening.

Oh, and it was only two 10mm nuts to remove the motor. I accessed it from behind the drivers seat. I did not have to remove the seat but some people may. It wasn't the easiest access but not bad once you understand what you need to do and if you can lean far enough in to look under the seat.
 
Thanks to this thread I found out I have the same problem with the broken flexible shaft on the left side of the drivers seat.

I repaired it by sawing a bolt to 48mm long. I then square both ends of the bolt so that one side fit into the motor and the other into the gear.

When I first installed the new shaft it caused the whole thing to be very loud. I think the flexibilty of the OEM shaft dampens fhe vibration. So I took the shaft i made out again and wrapped electrical wire heat shrink around it. This made the shaft a little tough to put back into the motor and gear but it did the trick. The operation isnt as quiet as originally but it functions, isn’t too obnoxious, and was made from parts around the house.
I measured the square shaft at 3mm x 3mm at end, approximately, and used my grinder to rough out the part. Cleaned it up with a dremmel.

Other materials may work better than a ridgid steel bolt to provide flex.

I was thinking that if the other, longer side snapped then I could use one of those metal shish kabob skewers. Those might be just the right fit with some heat shrink for dampening.

Oh, and it was only two 10mm nuts to remove the motor. I accessed it from behind the drivers seat. I did not have to remove the seat but some people may. It wasnt the easiest access but not bad once you understand what you need to do and if you can lean far enough in to look under the seat.
Thanks for the write-up! Unfortunately the eBay stainless steel replacement seat motor drive shaft cable rod now has doubled the price for about $25.
 
My seats been acting slow. I need to check my shaft might be failing too.
 
Greetings all, I'm trying to tackle this repair at the moment but it looks like since my seat is all the way back, I can't get to the bolts to remove the seat. Thoughts/tips?
 
Hoping for an angel from this thread to help with a solution! If it involves disconnecting the motor without removing the seat, can anyone assist with how to do so? Thanks!
 
Greetings all, I'm trying to tackle this repair at the moment but it looks like since my seat is all the way back, I can't get to the bolts to remove the seat. Thoughts/tips?
Looks like you’re trying to replace the drive cable TK81-88-0D1? Watch the video and see if you can figure out something to do it with or without removing the seat.

Power-seat noise

Here is the fix - $20 including shipping:
 
Hoping for an angel from this thread to help with a solution! If it involves disconnecting the motor without removing the seat, can anyone assist with how to do so? Thanks!
And read the write-up in the post #11 above by UnhappyCampR carefully. He did it without removing the seat.

⋯ Oh, and it was only two 10mm nuts to remove the motor. I accessed it from behind the drivers seat. I did not have to remove the seat but some people may. It wasn't the easiest access but not bad once you understand what you need to do and if you can lean far enough in to look under the seat.
 
Did my 2016 seat. Cable part # TK81-88-0D1 is correct. Got it from RealMazda parts.com. $24.00 shipped. Remove the 4 seat track bolts. Remove the rear first, move the seat back fully and disconnect the battery cable. While waiting remove the front bolts and tip the seat back. You can reach the cable to remove it. No need to remove the motor. Watch the video that yrwei52 posted. I pulled the new cable from the hsg. and put a very very small coating of grease on it and put it back in. Works great and don't take long.
 
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