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Thread: The College-Budget P5

  1. #46
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

    2002 Mazda Protege5

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    Quote Originally Posted by boostdprotegelx View Post
    Idk how much you’re trying to spend on an IM.. I have about 5 spares sitting in my garage
    Sent you a PM, but as an addendum, we'll see what I find tomorrow at the junkyard. Hopefully the other two proteges don't have a completely boogered IM upper-half.
    2002 Mazda Protege5
    ■ Sunburst Yellow ■ Black Rear Valence ■ Injen Cold Air Intake ■ Racing Beat Catback Exhaust ■ Moog Front Endlinks
    ■ Megan Racing Rear Strut Tower Bar ■ Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar ■ Mazda6 Front Big Brakes ■ Foglight Deletes
    ■ OBX 4-1 Headers ■ MP3 ECU ■ VTCS-less Intake Manifold ■ Mishimoto Aluminum Racing Radiator + Fan Shroud
    ■ AWR Trailing Arms


    ______________________________

  2. #47
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    Loving the build man! Just read through it. Can you post a few videos of the exhaust? I'm trying to find a CAI, headers, exhaust combo. I want a 4-2-1 header but cant find one

  3. #48
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabe710 View Post
    Loving the build man! Just read through it. Can you post a few videos of the exhaust? I'm trying to find a CAI, headers, exhaust combo. I want a 4-2-1 header but cant find one
    Thanks! This car is certainly a canvas for learning. I wish I could do more, but at the moment, I'm swamped by school and other responsibilities.

    The cat-back RB exhaust does a great job of getting your car a much more aggressive note without making it sound like a shitty civic ricebox. I used this video and that video for reference in sound. Those samples are what your car is going to sound like.

    I wouldn't know much about a solid CAI to put in the car, but you can't go wrong with what Racing Beat offers on their store page. They tuned and researched the Mazda Protege MP3, after all! I don't really want to put a CAI/SRI into my car, since I'm wary of moving the powerband in funny places and not interested in creating heatsoak in my car (hence why I did the "Goldstar" Grille Intake mod). Perhaps if the tubing was available in a composite material and the cone filter had a protective splash shield around it, I might be inclined to test it, but either way, I own one P5 that won't get its engine hydrolocked!

    You can't go wrong with OBX 4-1 headers, but there seems to be a lot of debate as to whether or not the headers truly benefit our cars. Supposedly, they move the powerband up higher towards the redline, which isn't great for our otherwise low-revving cars. The FS-DE is Mazda's "big block" I4, after all. Plus, you're looking for 4-2-1 headers. In that regard, good luck...I have no clue where you can even find those anymore. Mazda themselves had a special 4-2-1 header that you could put on the P5, but all that info has been lost to time. As a matter of fact, all sorts of modifications for this car has been lost to time, lol.

    I'd suggest PMing some of the other members here who really dug into their engine and put loads of goodies on them. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and find someone who'll sell you a rare 4-2-1 header!

    Good luck, I look forward to seeing more of your post!
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  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    Thanks! This car is certainly a canvas for learning. I wish I could do more, but at the moment, I'm swamped by school and other responsibilities.

    The cat-back RB exhaust does a great job of getting your car a much more aggressive note without making it sound like a shitty civic ricebox. I used this video and that video for reference in sound. Those samples are what your car is going to sound like.

    I wouldn't know much about a solid CAI to put in the car, but you can't go wrong with what Racing Beat offers on their store page. They tuned and researched the Mazda Protege MP3, after all! I don't really want to put a CAI/SRI into my car, since I'm wary of moving the powerband in funny places and not interested in creating heatsoak in my car (hence why I did the "Goldstar" Grille Intake mod). Perhaps if the tubing was available in a composite material and the cone filter had a protective splash shield around it, I might be inclined to test it, but either way, I own one P5 that won't get its engine hydrolocked!

    You can't go wrong with OBX 4-1 headers, but there seems to be a lot of debate as to whether or not the headers truly benefit our cars. Supposedly, they move the powerband up higher towards the redline, which isn't great for our otherwise low-revving cars. The FS-DE is Mazda's "big block" I4, after all. Plus, you're looking for 4-2-1 headers. In that regard, good luck...I have no clue where you can even find those anymore. Mazda themselves had a special 4-2-1 header that you could put on the P5, but all that info has been lost to time. As a matter of fact, all sorts of modifications for this car has been lost to time, lol.

    I'd suggest PMing some of the other members here who really dug into their engine and put loads of goodies on them. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and find someone who'll sell you a rare 4-2-1 header!

    Good luck, I look forward to seeing more of your post!
    I've been looking into different options the past few nights. Haven't pulled the trigger on anything as I commute on the highway to and from school almost everyday and dont want to have an overly loud/droney exhaust. This seems to be a good compromise though.
    I'm thinking going CAI as something up there is broken and the two intake over the grill and the part next to the filter have separated. I want the 4-2-1 headers solely cause my car has 233k miles and I dont take it that high in the rev range. Just dont want to risk anything. I feel you with school and responsibilities, finals time has me swamped and no time for anything.

  5. #50
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    Let us know how the new ecu is with pictures and everything. I'm also waiting for mine to arrive.
    2002 Mazda Protege5 Pure White

    MP3 Flashed ECU | Mishimoto Radiator/Shroud | MS Door Sills & Shift Knob | OBX Short Shifter with CorkSport Bushings | Goodridge SS Brake Lines | CorkSport 3rd Link Mod | MPV Wiper Stalk & Tribute Nozzles | S2K Antenna | Cabin Air Filter Mod | AWR Front Motor Mount 77 Duro | 205/55R16 Kumho Ecsta 4XII on 03 P5 Wheels

  6. #51
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by stormkyori View Post
    Let us know how the new ecu is with pictures and everything. I'm also waiting for mine to arrive.
    I won't be able to put it in until I get a functional IM to yank the VTCS out; the one I grabbed was complete junk and missing VICS butterflies :^(

    Installation should be extremely straight-forward, since all you do is yank off the passenger side plastic trim, fold back the carpet, undo four screws, and wallah. The rough part is going to be having the car stutter and run like shit for a bit (let alone getting another IM that's intact to cut out the VTCS and fill the holes with).

    All this talk about the IM actually leads me into an update I need to make...
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  7. #52
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Cel #2

    I bought myself a bluetooth OBDII scanner! Now, I didn't have to drive to Autozone or Advance AP for some scanning, and if I wanted to, I could look at some more performance analytics. With the Torque Pro application, I can make several different types of graphs. This is pretty exciting!

    However, owning this scanner also informed me that I have another code I never knew about.

    P0660 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1) Circuit Open

    Bugger me lads, looks like my VICS solenoid went out.

    Sure enough, I crammed my digital voltmeter/ammeter in there, and got nothing for resistance. I suppose that makes sense, since the car felt a little...I dunno, weak(?) during the previous autocross event. In fact, the guy giving me advice through the practice course asked me seriously "Is that all that car's got?". I'm not sure whether the VICS is stuck open or closed, but what I feel is that I lost some bottom-end.

    I guess it's time to dump a shit load of money into an otherwise minuscule plastic piece! Autozone quoted me at 95 bucks, so I'm searching for a better deal.

    However, this doesn't worry me nearly as much as next week's finals. Differential Equations is going to have one monster of a final, and hopefully Prob + Stats won't fuck me over.

    UPDATE:

    55 bucks off of Rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...414883&jsn=580

    What do you folks think? Should I just yank one off of another car in the junkyard, or is that a fair price? It sure as hell beats 90+ bucks,,
    Last edited by Riot_Polizei; 05-03-2018 at 01:09 AM.
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  8. #53
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    EBay has them for about $7 US new from Hong Kong.

    Just make sure you end up with the right one. There's a few different types on our car. The electrical connectors can be different how they bolt on, and whether they are normally open or normally closed. The people in Hong Kong may have their part numbers and names mixed up.
    (Rockauto is great with getting the correct part but eBay is a lot cheaper.)

    And you may have to wait a month or more to get it.



    If you can get a used one off a junker for $5-$10 you might be doing OK but it's going to be a 15 year old part that may not have much life left in it.
    Last edited by pcb; 05-04-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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  9. #54
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    hahaha everyone's vics solenoid is going out. discovered both of mine were dead about 3 weeks ago on my msp and p5. if you get your hands on a used one, you can test if it still works by hooking it up to a 9v battery. it should click if it's still functioning.
    03 MSP, 03 P5

  10. #55
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    You can always "retrofit" a solenoid valve.

    This is the VICS valve on my parts car...

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  11. #56
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    I got lucky, and learned that I pulled both solenoids with the IM a few weeks back

    I did not test it, but I cleared the code, drove around (and pushed it hard a few times), and have yet to have the code come back on. Nice, instant-gratification fixes are the best...

    But I gotta say, that's one hell of a jury-rig!
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  12. #57
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Keep in mind that it may take a while before the code comes back. (if your replacement happens to bad as well)



    Those solenoid valves can fail intermittently.

    My PRC valve crapped out and threw a code,... when it hooked it up to 12 V it got it to click twice then it stopped clicking.
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  13. #58
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post

    But I gotta say, that's one hell of a jury-rig!
    I would have taken apart the connector personally...








    Last edited by pcb; 05-04-2018 at 05:30 PM.
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  14. #59
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    More Ups and Downs

    Shit man, I can't catch a break between exams and the car's maintenance!

    My front driver-side wheel began emanating a very familiar mechanical howling/growling that gets louder the faster you go. Dangit, of all things, why did my wheel bearing go out before the upcoming time attack?

    Guess it's time to order another shipment from rockauto...

    On the brightside, in the next time attack, I'll receiving a free (will probably give him some gas money/lunch money for it, at the very least) Injen cold-air intake. He thought it was neat that I was Autocrossing a car he loved in the past, and told me that ever since it was totaled, various parts just sat around in boxes in his garage.

    Finally, I can begin to conduct some dyno tests to see what spoken-about mods here really do! I'll get a baseline:

    With P5 ECU
    Stock intake + uncut grille + MAF w/screen

    Then the intake:
    Injen intake + uncut grille + MAF w/screen (what many people should have)

    Then the "goldstar" grille mod (due to ram effect, may need some other tests too)
    Stock intake + cut grille + MAF w/o screen

    Maybe half of the "goldstar" mod (current setup)? Maybe not (removing the MAF screen was an addendum to the OG post):
    Stock intake + cut grille + MAF w/screen

    With MP3 ECU + removed VTCS

    Baseline:
    Stock intake + uncut grille + MAF w/screen

    Goldstar mod (again, may or may not test screened MAF. Results may be negligible):
    Stock intake + cut grille + w/o screen

    Aftermarket Intake:
    Injen Intake + uncut grille + MAF w/screen

    Important results:
    If removing the screen in the MAF module indeed provides some sort of tiny increase in performance, I'll remove the MAF screen in the Injen tests.

    To clarify...I don't need a cut grille for the intake, hence why I left it out :^)
    Maybe, it could help with engine bay cooling when left in, but who knows.

    Until next time, where hopefully something worthwhile and interesting happens.
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  15. #60
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ... why did my wheel bearing go out before the upcoming time attack?

    Guess it's time to order another shipment from rockauto....
    Don't get an economy bearing.
    I did and it wasn't a "sealed" bearing... It just had a "dust cap" that does little to keep water out.

    The SKF bearing at Rockauto specifically says "sealed" and as far as I know it is a quality bearing (although it is the most expensive)

    Doing a front bearing is usually a huge job and you'd hate to have to do it again in 6 months because of a crap bearing.
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