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Thread: The College-Budget P5

  1. #556
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    lolmsp

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    it's corrosion proof until it sees real power. torque and shock is corrosive to transmissions lol
    03 MSP, 03 P5

  2. #557
    Registered Member STudMUffin1177's Avatar

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    I've tried royal purple in mine before the trans started dumping oil, it was alright but 3rd would still grind and shifting felt the same as the cheapo gear oil I'd thrown in there before. I've heard only good things about synchromesh and now I have some set aside for when I figure out how to keep it inside the trans lol. My p5 would pop out of gears on acceleration and it just came down to being low on oil, probably a dumb question but have you changed the oil?

  3. #558
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    lolmsp

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    yeah i'd check/change the gear oil first and check for broken or sloppy engine mounts possibly. i've used Redline MT-90 in the past and liked it. reason i didn't use it again was because i was impatient and the store had syncromesh lol. i felt the redline shifted smoother but it could've been my trans was younger at the time too. i will prolly run redline again next time around.
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  4. #559
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The guys up here had a hard time with the Redline in the winter.

    It's still a thick oil.
    The Diagram Dude

  5. #560
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by 323 View Post
    ... i felt the redline shifted smoother...
    That makes sense to me.

    The way I figure it is that the thicker gear oil coats the gears better and cushions the shifing impact.

    But when it's -20C the oil is as thick as honey and the synchro mesh gears stop spinning.

    I figure the Synychromesh oil keeps the syncro's spinning but doesn't protect the gears as good.

    However I'm sure I was doing more damage grinding my gears for 20 minutes every day in the winter.

    I still mis-shift a few times a year and even stall it a couple times a year (you'd think I'd know how yo drive standard by now. lol)
    But I drive my car very gently now because she's old and brittle with very little unoxidized metal left on the car.
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  6. #561
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post

    Do I actually have a weak or failing master/slave cylinder? So confused...
    That is another possibilty.

    I remember more that a few guys that would only have shifting problems when the car was hot and they were in stop and go traffic.

    It turned out to be the master/slave cylinders and replacing them fixed the problem.

    However most people went with aftermarket components and they started failing not too long afterwards. (even though they were brand new and not rebuilt)

    The best option was big $ for OEM and one guy was trying to source a rebuild kit for his original cyinders and spent more money for the kit than buying a new after market cylinder.
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  7. #562
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    lolmsp

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    lol it doesn't get to -20C in virginia beach, va luckily. I went with new aftermarket exedy master and salve cylinders on my msp. So far so good for 6k miles. my mechanic friend told me to keep my old oem ones as spares for the beater
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  8. #563
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

    2002 Mazda Protege5

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    Thanks guys for this discussion on transmission oil! Glad to know there are a few different selections available to me. I think I may try that Redline MT-90 stuff, only because I've heard a handful of people mention it positively on this forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by STudMUffin1177 View Post
    My p5 would pop out of gears on acceleration and it just came down to being low on oil, probably a dumb question but have you changed the oil?
    Not a dumb question at all; I haven't checked in ages. In fact, last I heard of the transmission oil was when I first bought the car! I had it drained and refilled shortly after buying it and getting an inspection. That was a little over two years ago (13-14k miles ago) now. That's about half the standard life of transmission oil, but who knows if I should just dump it and refill now, especially since I've tracked it hard once a month? To be safe, I might as well do that.

    With that, I have a relatively clear list of tasks to ensure my transmission's not purely at fault:
    • Inspect/Replace transmission fluid
    • Inspect brake/clutch master cylinder
    • Inspect clutch slave cylinder


    If the fluid's low or bad, and replacing it does the trick, then alright, party on! Otherwise, I'll inspect the clutch cylinders. The Master cylinder isn't particularly low, however. It's within the two MIN and MAX lines, but it's lower than the middle point between the two. I haven't seen any leaks. I think I'll check the lines while I'm at it, but I don't feel any particular difficulty when I shift.

    As usual, that clutch slave cylinder does that rhythmic chirp...sometimes. There have been a few days where it's absent, but I'm not making anything big out of that. Could just be weather fluctuations or whatever.

    Also, to add some detail to my grinding, here's what a typical driving experience is like:

    I start up fine, and never dog the car past 3kRPM until the car's at operational temperature. 3rd gear works just fine when shifting under this RPM constraint. Once it's at the proper temperature, I can push it to higher RPM, and third gear will seemingly work fine past 3-3.5kRPM. It's seems like only after my car's been at op temp for a decent amount of time does third gear start to grind. Kind of the opposite of the usual problems people have. Some grind when it's cold, but mine grinds when it's hot?
    Budget update!

    Protege5 Transmission Option
    G15M-R non-LSD (88k Miles) $560.00
    Mazdaspeed Chromoly Flywheel $264.61
    Spec Stage 1 Clutch Kit $295.00
    Total: $1119.61

    Got my quote for a standard P5 tranny, which will be the safest option with no extra steps. I found a Spec Stage 1 Clutch Kit offered for 295 bucks over at CR3's website, although it's not officially listed under the Protege category. Gotta ask and see if he has any in stock. Otherwise, there's a Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit for only one dollar more, apparently. That one's officially listed. And of course, throw in that Chromoly lightweight flywheel, and I got myself a major upgrade.

    However, if I'm going through such lengths to drop in race parts, shouldn't I also be looking at motor mounts? I feel like dropping in an LSD alongside a sport clutch set-up would possibly wreck my stock mounts fairly quickly. Ah well, that's for a later development.
    2002 Mazda Protege5
    ■ Sunburst Yellow ■ Black Rear Valence ■ Injen Cold Air Intake ■ Racing Beat Catback Exhaust ■ Moog Front Endlinks
    ■ Megan Racing Rear Strut Tower Bar ■ Racing Beat Rear Sway Bar ■ Mazda6 Front Big Brakes ■ Foglight Deletes
    ■ OBX 4-1 Headers ■ MP3 ECU ■ VTCS-less Intake Manifold ■ Mishimoto Aluminum Racing Radiator + Fan Shroud
    ■ AWR Trailing Arms


    ______________________________

  9. #564
    Registered Member STudMUffin1177's Avatar

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    I know AWR makes a set but it's around 400$ I think, lots of people just fill the stock mounts. There's a couple threads floating around here

  10. #565
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    [*]Inspect brake/clutch master cylinder[*]Inspect clutch slave cylinder[/LIST]
    .
    It can be hard to inspect the cylinders when it only fails when hot.

    The cylinders fail by leaking internally. There is no fluid dripping anywhere.

    Bleed your clutch if you have'nt already.
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  11. #566
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The cups begin to stop sealing properly in the bore and leak some fluid past, then you lose clutch pressure.

    The leaked fluid ends up back in the brake reservoir.

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  12. #567
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Bleeding the clutch can help flush out any crap, particles or water that may be in the cylinders, helping the cups seal better.

    I suppose heat can affect the "leak rate" ??
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  13. #568
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    That reminds me that I should bleed my clutch again. The brakes too but bleeder screws scare me.

    They're hollow and love to break off, then bleeding the brakes costs me more than $500 with all new calipers and cylinders.

    Maybe I should leave well enough alone ??
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  14. #569
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ...
    As usual, that clutch slave cylinder does that rhythmic chirp...sometimes. There have been a few days where it's absent, but I'm not making anything big out of that. Could just be weather fluctuations or whatever.
    A bit of grease might help with the chirping.

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  15. #570
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ... The Master cylinder isn't particularly low, however. It's within the two MIN and MAX lines, but it's lower than the middle point between the two...
    If the fluid level was at the Max line when the brake pads were replaced, then by the time they need replacing again, it will be right around the Min line and the brake light may start flashing.

    The fuid level is a rough gauge of brake pad wear.
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