[DEFUNCT] The College-Budget P5

Just an FYI.

The only sizes used on our car are,... 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm (oil drain plug) and 21 mm (lug nuts).

The only time I've run into a different size was with aftermarket calipers that were SAE. That's when you use 11 mm or 13 mm to get the metric equivalent.

My bolt heads in my front suspension were so rusted and seized that the 14 mm was sloppy so I hammered on a 13 mm.

Rust for days. You dont happen to know the head bolt sizes?
 
My valve cover is off and it looks they are Allen bolts.



It looks like the cams need to come out first to gain access.
 
OK, I removed a camshaft.

The big 1/2" socket didn't fit in so had to switch to 1/4".

I needed to pry the "cap" (or whatever it's called) off with a pry bar.







They are 10 mm Allen.
That's the biggest socket in my set.

 
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Yea, that my parts car.

I'm gonna pull the head off now.
I'm giving myself a 1/2 hour time limit.

I'm gonna post in my thread now. I don't wanna trash up your thread.
 
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Wait so head bolts are 10mm Allen correct? I've been trying to find the size of these bolts for a couple weeks now so I can buy the right allen the first time.
 
Lmao pcb advertising your unbuild page in my build page :^)

If I ever get this damn car fixed, I might be digging in there for some camshaft goodies.
 
Thinking about it some more, if everything goes to s*** when you get back to your fuel filter chore.

If you end up with a few screws that you just can't get out, you could possibly put some Seal All on both sides of the big gasket and glue it in.

The few screws you have left, should be enough to hold it.

Seal All is like contact cement but it's gas and oil proof.
 
Wait so head bolts are 10mm Allen correct? I've been trying to find the size of these bolts for a couple weeks now so I can buy the right allen the first time.

Yes, they are 10 mm.

Aftermarket stuff could be different but doubt it.
 
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Wait so head bolts are 10mm Allen correct? I've been trying to find the size of these bolts for a couple weeks now so I can buy the right allen the first time.

I'd suggest getting the whole set from somewhere like harbour freight for around $10-$20.
Just make sure it's got a 10 mm.

There's an Allen on the front caliper too (some of them). I forget what size.
 
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Did some research, and it looks like a squeal at idle after the operational temperarure is reached is indicative of a poorly mated gasket surface.

I'm going to have to go in and double check my torque values again...at least I'm pretty good at tearing it all apart and putting it back together again.

I'm going to save up for something better than my harbor freight torque wrench.
 
All vacuum leaks are gone, and the car's running like a top. The obnoxious whistle/whine came from the throttle body, not the intake manifold. Granted, I still found an improperly torqued bolt on the IM, but the TB...whew, that was something else. I had the pleasure of hearing it quiet down and disappear as I tightened down the four nuts/bolts, at least. My STFT/LTFT numbers are back within normal parameters, and several code scans before, during, and after normal and hard drives revealed no codes.

...Except one, actually. It's a mystery to me, but I threw P0660 (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Open Circuit) after fixing the vacuum leak. No CEL ever came up; it appeared after conducting random CEL checks through Torque Pro. It never appeared during my vacuum leaks, which is a head-scratcher. To add to the mystery, I actually had my VTCS male adapter plugged into my only solenoid! I should've plugged in the white one, not the green one. That cleared up the code, and pepped the car right back up. And that was the end of my P0660 code!

Car's back to normal for now, so I just got to drop in those trailing arms, and I'll more-or-less be done with modding for some time.
 
Nice glad your codes were a simple fix, it's always nice when you just have to tighten some bolts down instead of tearing half the engine bay apart haha
 
I have no idea how you can manage to get the IM out ?? It's so damn tight in there.

I'm removing the head on my parts car and I guess the IM comes with it ??
 
Well, a winter storm blew through Wednesday, and my car hasn't been able to start since. Normally, I'd be upset, but I guess this is business as usual (rolleyes)

All the solenoids are good and click, but I've got no crank. Battery's good and holding voltage above 12V. It's gotta be a bad fuse, the ignition switch, or the starter itself at this point.
 
Damn man you just fixed your intake leak and now you have no crank? I'm sorry man this has been a tough winter for us protege guys
 
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