[DEFUNCT] The College-Budget P5

Beautiful man! How*d you mount your plate?

Thanks! Trust me, it's much more ghetto looking up close. I simply ziptied it to the grille behind it, since I didn't want to drill into the bumper. A unique combination of laziness and desire to not wreck the bumper :^)
 
Thanks! Trust me, it's much more ghetto looking up close. I simply ziptied it to the grille behind it, since I didn't want to drill into the bumper. A unique combination of laziness and desire to not wreck the bumper :^)

Lmao yeah. Mine was drilled in (part of VA PDI apparently) so it looks kinda bad. I need a new bumper anyway
 
... P0171 is not an intermittent code for me anymore. Something's legitimately wrong with my car now, and I've got to fix it before racing day.
, I don't want to miss my race! I got Honda boys I gotta beat!!

You can install your new fuel pump and filter, see if it helps, and be ready for race day.

Go kick some Honda Ass !!
 
An inconsequential update:

After a bit of discussion and vehicle inspection, I fixed up the vacuum leak. Check out this thread: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123867942-Sanity-Check-for-P0171

Well, despite the vacuum leak, it seems like fueling is still part of the problem. A new sending unit, sock, and pump may do wonders, but the FPR could potentially cause this as well. If the FPR is doing its job, wouldn't disconnecting it wreck the idle or kill the car? I did D/C it at one point to diagnose P0171, but it didn't seem to affect anything.

In the meantime, have a picture!

bADtapu.jpg


Was at a car meet, and since raceday is Sunday, thought I'd don the number magnets for show.
 
I don't think disconnecting the vacuum hose will kill the engine.

When inspecting the FPR the pressure goes from between 30-36 psi up to 39-45 psi when the vacuum hose is disconnected.

If your pressure regulator or PRC solenoid valve are faulty, you would probably have a really hard time restarting a hot engine.

The engine needs a bit more fuel pressure to get started when hot.

 
Dang it!! I went in to try and see if I could change out my fuel sending unit + pump snd sock, but some dolt before me stripped out the majority of the screws. They destroyed about 5, and then called it quits.

I , uh, don't want to blow myself up, so I guess I'll be leaving it alone for now...

Not wanting to take as complete L for today, I regreased my bushings. Nice and quiet again. I wanted to put in the trailing arms, but I don't think I should do that the day before the race.

As for my lean code, I'm still confused. Under any load (even barely touching the gas pedal), everything is fine, and both long and short term fuel trims are nominal. Once I let off the gas, LTFT skyrockets to 25%, and STFT hovers around 8-11%. I have no vacuum leaks anymore, so the readings are strange. It could very well be that fuel pump, but I can't get to it.
 
Dang it!! I went in to try and see if I could change out my fuel sending unit + pump snd sock, but some dolt before me stripped out the majority of the screws. They destroyed about 5, and then called it quits.

Didn't you just have a new fuel tank installed ?

The sending unit needs to be removed from the old tank and installed in the new one.

If you're missing a bunch of screws on the fuel pump unit cover, you could end up with an EVAP leak and pop a code.

Don't for get about the JIS screws and screwdriver.
 
This might help. You could hammer on the bit to seat it better or try using an impact hammer.

 
Another option to try if all else fails is to cut a slot in the top of the screws with a dremel tool and try to use a flathead screwdriver.

Your final option is to drill out the heads to remove them and use a vise grip to grab the few remaining threads that are left showing.
 
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Didn't you just have a new fuel tank installed ?

I wasn't brand new, unfortunately. I speculate that it was a good condition junkyard fuel tank, which may explain the crappy stripped out screws. Jeez, the last fuel tank's sending unit screws were fine...and yeah, I do have a JIS screwdriver. Bought it for this job, and never got to use them!

Bugger! Stripped screws are the worst, especially when you didn't do it!

Have you got an impact driver? Not a powered one but the little one like this https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

Apparently these are the bees knees for stubborn screws

I totally forgot that I actually purchased one! In fact, I have that same one from harbor freight. Never even thought to use that...but won't that cause sparks? I'm a little scared about hammering into the tank.

Another option to try if all else fails is to cut a slot in the top of the screws with a dremel tool and try to use a flathead screwdriver.

Your final option is to drill out the heads to remove them and use a vise grip to grab the few remaining threads that are left showing.

I really don't want to blow myself up...sure I'd be fine if I do that?
 
New(?!) Leak/Problem

When I showed up to the time attack, I heard a new ghastly noise:

VOLUME WARNING


It sounds like it's coming from the throttle body area, and as you can hear, it goes quiet with throttle. Don't mind that draping solenoid in the upper-left corner of the screen, though. That's not doing anything anymore.

What on earth can this be? If it's a vacuum leak, it's unlike anything I've ever heard before.

Also, under high engine load, I noticed that my brake pedal got a little hard to press. Made left-foot braking somewhat difficult. Perhaps the brake booster line went out?

Any ideas?
 
I really don't want to blow myself up...sure I'd be fine if I do that?

I hear that.
I had the same apprehension when I did my fuel filter.

Just lean right in there and take a good sniff with the access cover removed.

If you don't smell gas then your fine.

The tank is sealed until the fuel pump unit cover is off and the chances of a spark are slim with the impact driver.

The smell of gas has to be almost enough to make you feel sick before it's anywhere near the ignition point.

Mechanics use cutting torches and welders on cars all the time (but yea, s*** still happens)

I had a friend that sat in his driveway with a pan full of gas and washed out his foam air filter in it.
He was working with one hand because he was smoking with the other.

Do it in an open area with all your doors sitting open.

Be safe and use your sniffer.
 
idk if you posted it or not, but what size are the nuts/bolts on the manifold. I thought they were 12 or 14mm but I'm getting conflicting info
 
It's gotta be 12mm. Can't quite recall myself, honestly, but that's what came to mind first
 
thanks. I'll grab a wrench and see if I can find an easily accessible bolt to test this evening.
 
Just an FYI.

The only sizes used on our car are,... 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm (oil drain plug) and 21 mm (lug nuts).

The only time I've run into a different size was with aftermarket calipers that were SAE. That's when you use 11 mm or 13 mm to get the metric equivalent.

My bolt heads in my front suspension were so rusted and seized that the 14 mm was sloppy so I hammered on a 13 mm.
 
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