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Thread: The College-Budget P5

  1. #16
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    Man, you had a Sammy? Damn lucky man! I used to own a 4WD 91' Suzuki Sidekick, and that was a hoot in the trails! ...
    I used to own a 4WD 94' Pontiac Sunrunner... It kicked ass!!

    I could go places only a snowmobile or quad could go sept I had heat and shelter,... and it only took a come-along to pull it out of the muck.

    I kept clipping trees and breaking off my mirror so I just reattached it with zip ties...

    I remember tipping it over on it's side so we just pushed it back on it's feet.... And reattached the mirror.

    Dam thing rotted out 9 years ago... Then I got my P5.






















    I had the extremely rare 2 door hardtop version of the Tracker/Sidekick and whatever the hell a Sunrunner is.

    Apparently they were all built at the "CAMI" plant near me in Ingersol Ontario.. Every manufacturer had a warehouse of parts and when it was their turn to run the line the dudes would put together either a GMC or Chevy or GEO or Sidekick or in my case a Sunrunner...
    Last edited by pcb; 01-24-2018 at 06:50 PM.
    The Diagram Dude

  2. #17
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    How badass, man!

    Those little Zooks are seriously unstoppable. It takes so much to kill them, and you can rock crawl with them practically stock. If only Suzuki didn't go bankrupt in the USA...

    Those are some neat pictures! I'm glad you were able to have as much fun with it as you could.
    Last edited by Riot_Polizei; 01-26-2018 at 09:50 PM.

  3. #18
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Junkyard Treasure + The First Mod

    After cleaning my MAF and allegedly fixing my running lean code, it was high time I went to the local pull n' pay for some clips, bolts and parts. There was no way in hell I was going to pay 70+ dollars for that radiator-mounted cool air duct that I was missing, after all. Ebay and Amazon had some really shitty prices, I tell you...


    ...Anyhow, I made my way over to the Pull n' Pay, yanked some trim clips, bolts, and the aforementioned air duct. But hey, I got some bonuses too!

    Air duct + black-trim bumper (I know it's busted up on one side; stay tuned for why I got it...)


    Finally, something to keep my manual and registration papers in!


    That air duct looked like garbage, so I decided to give it a good clean n' polish.

    Much nicer...I just have to hit that valve cover some day, and touch up the black lines.


    Now, why did I get that bashed up grille? I was reading an interesting forum post regarding the modification of a stock airbox, and how it theoretically produced a ram-air effect without a SRAI or heatsoak. So, to put it to the test, I got a junky grille to cut up test this concept on.

    (Post in question: http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...-Intake-System)

    Lacking a proper cutting tool such as a dremel or an angle grinder, I drilled a zillion holes in the grille, and then connected the dots with a knife I have. After all of this, I had a rectangular hole in the grille that had the same length of the air duct's opening. The result is as follows:


    From there, I removed the MAF sensor, and then removed the screen from it for an alleged amplified airflow effect. Thing is, that screen wouldn't block shit if particulates made it to the MAG housing. Those spaces in between the screen were much larger than I thought. Furthermore, if the air filter itself tore or something, that wouldn't stop engine-destroying particulates from making it through the MAF screen. Thus, I just took it off.


    With everything fully assembled, my now once chrome-nosed P5 was ready for some driving!

    Lord, I need to hit those headlights sometime...


    Now, for the important part. Did the airflow modification actually do anything?

    The first thing I noticed when firing it up was the somewhat louder intake/engine noise. Given, I didn't have that air duct to begin with, so I don't know if it was the hole in the grille I drilled or if it was just the duct. Starting it from a cold start was heavenly, as it sounded really nice!

    As for performance, starting/turning off/starting the car several times in the past day and today from driving it around yielded what I believe to be a much more eager-to-rev engine. It's ever-so-slightly less sluggish in all RPM levels, but really shines past 4/4.5k RPMs. I believe it's a little stronger in higher RPMs due to the ram-air effect I now have, coupled with the theoretical lower temperature air I'm receiving.

    Yet, these are all things I want to test, since I'm more concerned with actual results. It feels nice, but I want to investigate further. I'm still thinking about how I'll test for airflow temperature, but I know that someday, I'd like to put it on a Dyno. I don't expect massive numbers by any means...but any sort of gain would be excellent, considering this is a free mod that any P5/ES owner can do.

    Until next time, where I'll upload what I did today (Jan 25th) to improve the front bumper area!

  4. #19
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ...It's ever-so-slightly less sluggish in all RPM levels, but really shines past 4/4.5k RPMs. I believe it's a little stronger in higher RPMs due to the ram-air effect I now have...
    I would figure the the ram-air effect would have more to do with speed than rpm. 10 MPH in first gear isn't going to ram much air.

    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ...Yet, these are all things I want to test, since I'm more concerned with actual results. It feels nice, but I want to investigate further. I'm still thinking about how I'll test for airflow temperature,...
    Never trust the butt dyno, they have a tendency to be very inaccurate.

    You should get an ELM 327 code reader ($10-$20) and download the torque app (free) to your phone or tablet then it will tell you exactly what the IAT is reading in real time, all the time. (as well as information from every sensor on your car)

    It would make sense to remove your mods and air box above the rad again to get readings the way it was, especially the air temperature during heat soak at idle.



    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    ...I know that someday, I'd like to put it on a Dyno. I don't expect massive numbers by any means...but any sort of gain would be excellent,...
    Here too, you'd probably want to do a before and after test to see the real difference.
    I don't know much about dyno testing but I'm pretty sure they don't feed a 50 MPH headwind to the front of the car to simulate highway speed, where the ram air would really do it's thing.
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  5. #20
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    While the effect was indeed amplified with speed, I did notice that across the powerband, the car did feel a little more lively. I'm still driving it around to get a good feel, since for all I know, it could be a placebo!

    What is a butt dyno?

    And yessir, I'm definitely going to run a before/after experiment if I can ever get these things tested.

    But I'm definitely going to look into that ELM 327 code reader, since I've been meaning to get me one for some time. Thanks for the suggestion!

  6. #21
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Overspray Central (Or How I Inspected My Bumper)

    To ensure it wouldn't be a waste of time trying to fix up the body a little bit on this car, I set out to remove the bumper and look at the frame.

    And...


    Ugh...


    ...That's a shitload of overspray.


    I knew this car was banged up and got extremely cheap body work + new paint, but damn this overspray is vile! Thankfully, all that garbage is underneath the pretty parts.

    The good news from this inspection was that I didn't find any bent or kinked part of the frame, the accident was a light one. It seems like fixing up the tirewells was plausible after all!

    95% sealed up (Driver Side):


    Pretty much restored (Passenger Side):


    Furthermore, I tightened up that driver-side panel gap a little bit. The frame isn't the problem; the bumper cover is. It's a little bent on the driver side, so it doesn't create a near-perfect seam like the passenger side does. It's got an annoying gap right before the headlight, but it's not as prevalent as it used to be.


    Taking off the bumper was not without its surprises. When taking out one of the two bolts that hold the bumper up underneath the frame...

    ...SNAP!


    ...damn, and that looks like a fairly proprietary bolt, too. Oh well, looks like I need to learn how to tap out studs...


    As for the last surprise, some weird little metal piece flew out of my engine bay when I took off the bumper.

    What is this?


    Other side:


    I really hope that's not terribly important!

    Well, progress was made, the car looks ever so slightly better, and I'm slowly inching my way towards some actual modifications!w

  7. #22
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    What is a butt dyno?
    Trying to use your butt as an instrument to test horsepower while driving.... It's the whole placebo thing.
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  8. #23
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    The Rear Valence

    I'm not one for cosmetic mods/enhancements, but when I saw pictures of plasti-dipped rear valences, I had to give it a try.

    I got some matte black plasti-dip spray, tapped off what I wasn't going to spray, and let 'er have it. Unfortunately, I made a mistake, and let the coatings dry before I removed my tape, so I ended up shredding the upper-half of my paint. Oh well, live and learn, right?

    This also revealed that the tiny separation of the valence and the rest of the bumper had a lot of uncoated spots. To facilitate an easier spread, I jacked up the rear of my car. This way I'd have a better angle to work with.

    Maybe half an hour later, I went from this:


    To this:


    I'm pretty happy with the results, and finally got a little bit of experience with painting.

  9. #24
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riot_Polizei View Post
    .... had a lot of uncoated spots....
    Yea !! Me too!!



    I bought some clear coat but I'm debating whether or not I want to use $8 worth of clear coat on a $4 car ???

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  10. #25
    Registered Member 323's Avatar

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    should get the $1 clear coat from walmart instead. then you'll only spend $1 on a $4 car!
    03 MSP, 03 P5

  11. #26
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    February Status Report

    It's nuts thinking that I will have owned this car for a year in just a few months. It seems like just yesterday, I was going to my classes in my lifted Sidekick and experiencing the loudest road noises known to man...

    I don't think I ever discussed it in depth, but when I put new front rotors and pads on my car, I must not of burnished/installed them properly. For about a month, I had the most irritating rhythmic squeak/grinding from my brakes accompanied by copious amounts of brake dust. My rims were horrible looking, my car sounded like garbage, and it drove me crazy. After some time, the noises just stopped, but my brakes began to pulsate. It's not as bad as I thought it would be, but the steering wheel definitely vibrates under medium braking loads.

    Maybe I'm not taking it as seriously as I should, but I'll just hold off until I have to do all rotors and pads. Plus, I'll probably do the Mazda 6 brakes swap then.

    That tie rod is still bad, and is getting worse. This car has been rattling/creaking when navigating bumps or when starting from a standstill, and I'm trying to eliminate as much of it as I can. Furthermore, I cannot find any adjustable endlinks for the life of me! There are no racingline, racingbeat, or AWR endlinks that I can buy, since they're all out of stock...jeez, guess I'll go with some moog endlinks, since I've heard plenty good about them. Plus, II may or may not have to replace my front endlinks. I dunno, I'm just spitballing to see what I can do.

    Then there's the matter of my tie rod. I think I'll just replace both the same day I get my tires rotated and aligned.

  12. #27
    Team Pro5 Jackie chan's Avatar

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    I run whiteline swaybar links. The ones that are a threaded rod that you cut to length.

  13. #28
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    The Second Mod

    It wasn't on the list to begin with, but after reading about retrofitting (or is it futurefitting in this instance?) an MX-6 bar on a P5, I had to do it. Especially since it was inexpensive.

    Here's what my car's truck looked like for a bit:


    boy was it dusty in there.

    I then cut out holes for the panels using my recently acquired hole saw set. It was a seriously cheap piece of shit, but it got the job done.

    Here are some up close shots of the holes:

    (Good Side)


    (Measure once, fuck up twice side)


    I'm very pleased with the look of it, and with the performance!


    And yes, I did install the bar itself when the car was jacked up in the air with no load on the suspension.

    Once the bar was installed, I took it out to the twistiest road near me to see if I could tell a difference.

    To note, I sometimes bomb this road for fun after a long day at school, and I know my comfortable limit around it. Fastest I've ever gone through it was about 62 mph, but that was dicey. My car's body would "bounce" in such a way that while turning, if I adjusted the wheel's angle, the car would roll to oppose my input, bounce against it slightly, and then return to an equilibrium state during the turn. I make it sound super scary and dangerous, but this sensation would occur very quickly and to a small extent. It's enough to probably scare a passenger.

    This STB virtually negated it. I still had body roll of course, but the car no longer roll-oscillated in the way I described. It felt far more planted and confident in harder/faster turns.

    Not bad for 27 bucks, I gotta say!

    Bar Used: Megan Rear Strut Bar MX-6 Probe

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Rear-...!US!-1&vxp=mtr
    Last edited by Riot_Polizei; 02-18-2018 at 11:12 PM.

  14. #29
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    UPDATE: A Better Use for Tax Refund Money

    Originally, I was going to buy Racing Beat's catback exhaust system, but that oil leak my car has bothers me too much. It's a slow leak coming from the bottom of my transaxle, which is bad economic news. That's a good sign that it's a rear main oil seal leak, but knowing this car, it could be a bolt leak. Either way, it's out of my hands for the next few days, and I'll be driving the van.

    I don't have the experience nor the equipment to do this myself, and my one pal who could help me sold his damn engine hoist, so I sent it to a local shop my family and I have always trusted. Perhaps I'll learn how to swap in/out engines in the future, when I have an actual "fun money" stash to throw around.

    I love this car a lot, and the longer I can keep it running, the better. I don't need it to sound badass if it's got issues.
    Last edited by Riot_Polizei; 02-19-2018 at 06:31 PM.

  15. #30
    Comp Engineering Student Riot_Polizei's Avatar

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    Endlinks and Oil Leaks

    As an update stemming from the previous post...I got lucky.

    My inner-CV axles had bad grommets and bad boots, and were leaking down the sides of the transaxle. This mimicked a bad rear-main oil seal. With that squared away, I'm good to continue working on other aspects of my car.

    Which leads me into the replacement of my front endlinks.

    My car clunked like crazy going over bumps, backing out of my driveway, going from reverse to first...you name it. After figuring that the noise came from my endlinks--which were as old as the car--I went ahead and got some Moog brand replacements. This was my first time messing with endlinks, so it took me a little longer to figure out the what's what.

    When I finally wrenched the old endlink free, I was pleased to see the visible improvement that the Moogs offered! Apologies for the shitty picture; lighting was bad, and I jittered right before the picture was done.



    Damn, those are much thicker than OEM. Plus, the old endlinks were so bad that the ball-joints felt like thumbsticks on a game controller.

    All good and torqued to spec!



    My stock sway bar looked a little rusty, so maybe if I work up the gumption to drop the subframe and yank it out, I'll give it a good sanding and re-finish.

    So for now, my (front) clunking is gone! there's a tiny bit of groaning, which is from my rubber bushings, but a little lithium grease spray could help that.

    All I got to do now is figure out what to do with the rear endlinks...

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