Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
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- 2002 Mazda Protege5
From memory, my drivers rear (your passengers side) needed the caliper taking off to get the bolt out, not a major, just the 2 14mm bolts and stick it somewhere out of the way
That voltmeter looks great without the glass, how bright is it?
Exactly what I recalled! I don't like screwing with the brakes if I don't have to, but looks like I must if those springs are going in.
And that voltmeter gauge was actually reasonably lit without the cover. I set it to 12V with a very low current (just in case the thing wasn't designed to exceed 1/4W--couldn't find any info), and it seemed alright to me. It does its job for a cheap little thing :^)
i had to take a rear caliper off when installing gabe's lowering springs & struts. i don't remember which side...you can be like the cool kids and leave the original oil pressure sensor just plugged in and dangling since it doesn't turn on until it's too late anyway. no it won't light up the cel
I knew it! A minor inconvenience, but I'll live. It's comical just how useless our oil "pressure sensor" is. It wouldn't kill them to at least extend the signal range...that light might as well be a skull and crossbones.
This is the original pressure switch for the P5.
You can test it with an ohmmeter. It has continuity until the oil pressure is above 3-9 psi.
For you to test your new gauge, you would need to unscrew the stock switch and screw in your new sensor.
Your new sensor has variable resistance proportional to the oil pressure.
The gauge sends voltage through the resistor and the voltage drop is interpreted as a needle movement or digital readout.
The voltage going to the sensor would be DC ranging from 0 V to 12 V.
You kinda need to thread the sensor into the engine because it's the oil pressure that adjusts the resistance of the sensor and it's hard to apply pressure to it if it's not installed
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I just noticed this picture.
It looks like you didn't get the matching sensor that goes with the gauge.
The sensor for each gauge can be different.
The resistance can vary from say 0- 100 ohms or 0- 1000 or 10,000 ohms or whatever.
You need to have the matching sensor for your gauge.
The wire coming from your stock pressure switch won't work.
The needle will be pinned at either 0 psi or 100 psi.
Thanks for the info! Always a bastion of knowledge. It's a shame I forgot that the pressure sensor actually wires into the block, but I was never known for having all my bases covered :^)
I have a feeling that I may end up purchasing proper, higher quality gauges in the future. The volt meter's simple enough, and may stay for a while.