When the tank is filling it's pushing air out the vent system to a sensor on your fuel pump nozzle.
If that vent system is plugged with liquid gas then no air flows.
[DEFUNCT] The College-Budget P5
- Thread starter Riot_Polizei
- Start date
When the tank is filling it's pushing air out the vent system to a sensor on your fuel pump nozzle.
If that vent system is plugged with liquid gas then no air flows.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Thanks for the info. So I guess I should check out that vapor cannister then, huh?
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Ouch!! I just opened a can of worms.
I decided that today would be the day I put in the rear sway bar. Well, until I broke both of my rear subframe weldnuts :^(
After a bit of finagling and screwing around, I learned that they were size 18 inside. I can loosen them now, but they're so horribly rusty that I'm going to need a couple spray downs of liquid wrench. This just got a little more interesting...can't rivnut this, though!
I decided that today would be the day I put in the rear sway bar. Well, until I broke both of my rear subframe weldnuts :^(
After a bit of finagling and screwing around, I learned that they were size 18 inside. I can loosen them now, but they're so horribly rusty that I'm going to need a couple spray downs of liquid wrench. This just got a little more interesting...can't rivnut this, though!
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
I definitely plan on doing something less likely to bite me in the ass in the future -- something like what you described. I was thinking bolt + washers + locknut, since there aren't any threads in the subframe. Man I hate weld nuts!
It's been really tough getting the weld nut out, so I think I might just cut it out with my dremel. Makes me wonder about the rear subframe swap some fellas have been talking about for out P5s.
It's been really tough getting the weld nut out, so I think I might just cut it out with my dremel. Makes me wonder about the rear subframe swap some fellas have been talking about for out P5s.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
I managed to remove one bolt + weld nut assembly. As for the other one, I accidentally rounded off the weld nut, so looks like I have no choice but to cut it off.
As for the AWR mounting hardware, I had to hollow out the bushings a bit so that they'd fit around the bar. No problem. However, the factory horseshoe mounts to hold up the bar are problems. They were loaded with gunk and dirt, so I had to clean it off and sand down years of hardened earth. Then, I had to bend it slightly to get it to fit over the bushing. From there, it looked like all I had to do was just fasten down the bolts onto the mount, and I'd be done. Problem is, I wasn't paying attention to the direction the bolt was fastening in, and as a result, I destroyed the threads in the mount. Ladies and gents, this bar is not going in today.
As for the AWR mounting hardware, I had to hollow out the bushings a bit so that they'd fit around the bar. No problem. However, the factory horseshoe mounts to hold up the bar are problems. They were loaded with gunk and dirt, so I had to clean it off and sand down years of hardened earth. Then, I had to bend it slightly to get it to fit over the bushing. From there, it looked like all I had to do was just fasten down the bolts onto the mount, and I'd be done. Problem is, I wasn't paying attention to the direction the bolt was fastening in, and as a result, I destroyed the threads in the mount. Ladies and gents, this bar is not going in today.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
lol just kidding
I have a tendency to bang my head against a figurative wall until I give. Then, I sit on it for a second, and go back into it despite throwing up my hands and calling it quits.
So, a simple fix to the stripped threads was to put another longer bolt through it from the other hole. That got it going.
Then, I got the bushings hogged out, lubed up, and put into position. The (longer) endlinks are fastened down with the exception of one that I can't reach with my hex key set.
Now, all that's missing is a suitable replacement for the weldnuts. I intend on going with a locknut | washer | bolt combo that hopefully won't slip. Think I'll use some loctite just in case.
Until then, I gotta hit the books and study for one more exam next week. Next week's also payday and the last racing event for the year!
(Boy do those lateral links look fugly with all that rust...same goes for the trailing links)
I have a tendency to bang my head against a figurative wall until I give. Then, I sit on it for a second, and go back into it despite throwing up my hands and calling it quits.
So, a simple fix to the stripped threads was to put another longer bolt through it from the other hole. That got it going.
Then, I got the bushings hogged out, lubed up, and put into position. The (longer) endlinks are fastened down with the exception of one that I can't reach with my hex key set.
Now, all that's missing is a suitable replacement for the weldnuts. I intend on going with a locknut | washer | bolt combo that hopefully won't slip. Think I'll use some loctite just in case.
Until then, I gotta hit the books and study for one more exam next week. Next week's also payday and the last racing event for the year!
(Boy do those lateral links look fugly with all that rust...same goes for the trailing links)
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
In For Good...
It's all in!
Sheesh, that took way longer than I hoped. Seemingly every other part of the install fought me, with those weld nuts being the worst part. I decided to flip the weldnut/bolt assembly upside-down, since that was way easier to install. I grabbed some locking pliers, and moved the bolt blindly over the subframe hole. I dropped it down, held it in place with a 17mm open ended wrench, and torqued it down until I wouldn't tighten anymore. I then received what felt like a metric ton of dirt directly into my eyeball...
20 or so minutes of flushing later, I grabbed some goggles, and then did the same for the other side. I double checked everything to make sure nothing had slack, made sure the endlinks were in a proper position, and then I was done.
To test it out, I drove my car to the local scenic view, which has lots of little twisty roads on it. I was thoroughly impressed; I felt like I had more grip on my skinny all-season stockers with that bar than with the wider, sportier wheels/tires without the bar. That rear reduced my car's roll by quite a bit, and kept things planted.
But the best part?!
No more squeaking or creaking from the rear!! That drove me nuts!
I'm going to be keeping a close eye on that bolt + nut I replaced the weldnut + bolt with.
It's all in!
Sheesh, that took way longer than I hoped. Seemingly every other part of the install fought me, with those weld nuts being the worst part. I decided to flip the weldnut/bolt assembly upside-down, since that was way easier to install. I grabbed some locking pliers, and moved the bolt blindly over the subframe hole. I dropped it down, held it in place with a 17mm open ended wrench, and torqued it down until I wouldn't tighten anymore. I then received what felt like a metric ton of dirt directly into my eyeball...
20 or so minutes of flushing later, I grabbed some goggles, and then did the same for the other side. I double checked everything to make sure nothing had slack, made sure the endlinks were in a proper position, and then I was done.
To test it out, I drove my car to the local scenic view, which has lots of little twisty roads on it. I was thoroughly impressed; I felt like I had more grip on my skinny all-season stockers with that bar than with the wider, sportier wheels/tires without the bar. That rear reduced my car's roll by quite a bit, and kept things planted.
But the best part?!
No more squeaking or creaking from the rear!! That drove me nuts!
I'm going to be keeping a close eye on that bolt + nut I replaced the weldnut + bolt with.
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Nice man, rear sways make a huge difference on these cars.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Hell yeah man, I love the way it feels. Much less roll, and the car's a lot more planted! Glad I finally got around to it.
Sounds like my resonator -> midpipe connection is leaking again, because why not? Going to go to Autozone to grab another gasket to put there momentarily while I wait for my just-ordered Racing Beat gasket(s) to arrive. Can't stand the rice-rasp!
At this rate, wouldn't be surprised if my nickname was "Mr. Gasket"
- :
- Mazda protege5
Havnt been on in awhile, just caught up on your build. I gotta say you might just be Mr gasket [emoji23] great build though man, your build inspires me to save money haha
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Mr. Gasket and the Future
And that's the damn truth lmao :^)
Let's just hope no particularly difficult gaskets start going out...
Thanks! It's definitely a nice accent in terms of aesthetics when I go under the car, but man the handling benefit is superb. Can't wait to race it once more!
But it's funny you mention switching to locknuts, since as I went under the car to inspect the leak once more, I found, yet again, that the bolt and nut assembly went missing. Chalk up two looses to me for being a dummy and not using loctite (and for not following up on my previous statement and getting a "proper replacement" LOL!)...but at least the gasket wasn't completely destitute. Did a shopvac test after all this, and I managed to seal this up after replacing the old assembly with a new one (which now had a nylon lock-nut on it).
I'm still going to replace the gasket that's in there with a proper one when it arrives though, since this one is smaller in diameter and sticks inside the exhaust pipe.
Maintenance-wise, I'm going to be much more intently investigating this fueling issue I've received. It prematurely clicks and shuts off the pump. Judging by the info pcb gave me, it could be that charcoal canister that's plugged up with fuel, or perhaps a purge valve failed. I actually have time to work on this, so hopefully I can come up with results soon. Less importantly, I got to get off my duff and find some rear splash shields sometime. While unlikely, my bumper could rip off while I'm driving thanks to aerodynamic forces or something. Not a lot of confidence in the two screws + 3 clips holding it in...anyhow, the final thing to investigate is my belts and pulleys. I got to double check, but my accessory belt was looking kind of janky, and could very well be the source of squealing in wet conditions. New pulleys would be mostly eye-candy, but I was told it's not a bad idea to replace these with the belts if the pulleys are old.
As for modifications, the likelihood for a VTCS delete is greater than getting an MP3 manifold. They're stupid cheap at the pull n' pay nearby (got one for 20$, although it was a very bad specimen missing the VICS). Plus, 323 brought up tapping threads, so I could do that rather than pack the holes full of the epoxy. I'd much rather put in a properly machined MP3 manifold, but hey those things are rare.
Relatively new to my ideas of mods is stiffer springs. I'm probably never going to find a brand new or lightly used full set of Tokicos, so I'm investigating the type of springs I could put on my OEM struts without destroying them. Racing Beat's springs are a likely candidate, but they tend to **** around with your car's dynamics mid-turn due to their progressive nature. Progressive springs in general aren't too great for racing, and I intend on doing much better next racing season.
If tokicos weren't so rare, and if coilovers weren't so damn expensive, I'd probably have this done already!
And that's the damn truth lmao :^)
Let's just hope no particularly difficult gaskets start going out...
Thanks! It's definitely a nice accent in terms of aesthetics when I go under the car, but man the handling benefit is superb. Can't wait to race it once more!
But it's funny you mention switching to locknuts, since as I went under the car to inspect the leak once more, I found, yet again, that the bolt and nut assembly went missing. Chalk up two looses to me for being a dummy and not using loctite (and for not following up on my previous statement and getting a "proper replacement" LOL!)...but at least the gasket wasn't completely destitute. Did a shopvac test after all this, and I managed to seal this up after replacing the old assembly with a new one (which now had a nylon lock-nut on it).
I'm still going to replace the gasket that's in there with a proper one when it arrives though, since this one is smaller in diameter and sticks inside the exhaust pipe.
...what's next?
Maintenance-wise, I'm going to be much more intently investigating this fueling issue I've received. It prematurely clicks and shuts off the pump. Judging by the info pcb gave me, it could be that charcoal canister that's plugged up with fuel, or perhaps a purge valve failed. I actually have time to work on this, so hopefully I can come up with results soon. Less importantly, I got to get off my duff and find some rear splash shields sometime. While unlikely, my bumper could rip off while I'm driving thanks to aerodynamic forces or something. Not a lot of confidence in the two screws + 3 clips holding it in...anyhow, the final thing to investigate is my belts and pulleys. I got to double check, but my accessory belt was looking kind of janky, and could very well be the source of squealing in wet conditions. New pulleys would be mostly eye-candy, but I was told it's not a bad idea to replace these with the belts if the pulleys are old.
As for modifications, the likelihood for a VTCS delete is greater than getting an MP3 manifold. They're stupid cheap at the pull n' pay nearby (got one for 20$, although it was a very bad specimen missing the VICS). Plus, 323 brought up tapping threads, so I could do that rather than pack the holes full of the epoxy. I'd much rather put in a properly machined MP3 manifold, but hey those things are rare.
Relatively new to my ideas of mods is stiffer springs. I'm probably never going to find a brand new or lightly used full set of Tokicos, so I'm investigating the type of springs I could put on my OEM struts without destroying them. Racing Beat's springs are a likely candidate, but they tend to **** around with your car's dynamics mid-turn due to their progressive nature. Progressive springs in general aren't too great for racing, and I intend on doing much better next racing season.
If tokicos weren't so rare, and if coilovers weren't so damn expensive, I'd probably have this done already!
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Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
I'm not going to have to drop the fuel tank to inspect the fuel return valve, am I?
I'm hoping my charcoal cannister is the problem, since I wouldn't have to tear everything apart
I'm hoping my charcoal cannister is the problem, since I wouldn't have to tear everything apart
No,.. The tank doesn't need to be dropped to inspect the non-return valve but even that probably isn't your issue.
There have been a lot of guys that have the same problem and it's was fuel going where it's not supposed to.
Check that cylindrical "air filter" and see if it's full of gas.
Part #6.
Part #7 can get clogged with mud and crap and cause the same problem.
There have been a lot of guys that have the same problem and it's was fuel going where it's not supposed to.
Check that cylindrical "air filter" and see if it's full of gas.
Part #6.
Part #7 can get clogged with mud and crap and cause the same problem.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
If the cylindrical cannister is clogged with fuel, is it spent and needing replacement? Same for part #7?
Probably this weekend, I'll pull the fuel pump relay to depressurize the system before I take these things apart. Would hate to unintentionally gargle gasoline.
Probably this weekend, I'll pull the fuel pump relay to depressurize the system before I take these things apart. Would hate to unintentionally gargle gasoline.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
I've been distracted by a litany of things lately...have yet to get around to fixing my fueling issue.
I'm in the final stretch of this semester, with only five or so weeks remaining. Gotta get those good grades so that I can afford modifying this thing :^)
As a bit of a contradictory statement...Soul Calibur 6 came out, and I've been playing that a little too much lol. Best in the series IMO, at this point.
Also, the anticipated crazy clunking in the rear began. It's more of a creaking, since the brackets holding in the bushings are bending, but man it's a rough noise. AXR doesn't sell any anti-clunk brackets anymore, so I gotta find some second-hand or perhaps perform a MSP subframe swap. Heard it wasn't too bad on these cars.
I'm in the final stretch of this semester, with only five or so weeks remaining. Gotta get those good grades so that I can afford modifying this thing :^)
As a bit of a contradictory statement...Soul Calibur 6 came out, and I've been playing that a little too much lol. Best in the series IMO, at this point.
Also, the anticipated crazy clunking in the rear began. It's more of a creaking, since the brackets holding in the bushings are bending, but man it's a rough noise. AXR doesn't sell any anti-clunk brackets anymore, so I gotta find some second-hand or perhaps perform a MSP subframe swap. Heard it wasn't too bad on these cars.
