Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Sent an IM!
[DEFUNCT] The College-Budget P5
- Thread starter Riot_Polizei
- Start date
Sent an IM!
- :
- Mazda protege5
Super jealous man I'm glad the pro5 is still holding up. I look forward to what you do this year
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
PM replied........choice of FSDE or FSZE..................
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Sweet man, hopefully this year will be filled with interesting advancements! At the very least, I gotta get a video of me racing for once to put up here.
Me too! Trailing links are going to be the easy part, since those are easy to swap in and out, and don't require an alignment. I'm excited for experiencing the results!
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Cel #3
The CEL turned on yet again, and I bet you that now it has to do with my fueling issues. Ouch!
I'm going to finally wheel my car into the garage and inspect my fueling system. The Evap shouldn't be a problem, but perhaps it finally took a toll on my fuel filter. I have all the tools I need to replace it, so perhaps I can get it all done today!
Depending on the CEL, I'll come back here and edit.
EDIT: Not a fueling issue. My downstream(?) O2 sensor is on the fritz.
EDIT 2: CEL disappeared after the car sat for a while...I forgot the code number (P0201? I forgot to log it in Torque Pro), but it involved my O2 sensor in bank 1 (I think downstream?) returning no readings to the ECU. Because the car sat long enough to cool down, and because I tightened the non-fouler and sensor module itself, I'm not sure which event "did the trick".
The CEL turned on yet again, and I bet you that now it has to do with my fueling issues. Ouch!
I'm going to finally wheel my car into the garage and inspect my fueling system. The Evap shouldn't be a problem, but perhaps it finally took a toll on my fuel filter. I have all the tools I need to replace it, so perhaps I can get it all done today!
Depending on the CEL, I'll come back here and edit.
EDIT: Not a fueling issue. My downstream(?) O2 sensor is on the fritz.
EDIT 2: CEL disappeared after the car sat for a while...I forgot the code number (P0201? I forgot to log it in Torque Pro), but it involved my O2 sensor in bank 1 (I think downstream?) returning no readings to the ECU. Because the car sat long enough to cool down, and because I tightened the non-fouler and sensor module itself, I'm not sure which event "did the trick".
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Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
I bought AWR Trailing Links and CR3 Motorsport swaybar relocation brackets!
Doubt they'll be in before the racing event on the 20th, but I could always be surprised.
1/7/2019
EDIT: The CEL never came on, despite driving the car for quite a bit today. Big ??? on my end! Perhaps my non-fouler was just too loose.
Doubt they'll be in before the racing event on the 20th, but I could always be surprised.
1/7/2019
EDIT: The CEL never came on, despite driving the car for quite a bit today. Big ??? on my end! Perhaps my non-fouler was just too loose.
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Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Head Stud Nightmare
I wanted to see why my P5 leaked a tiny bit at my exhaust manifold flange/head ports connection, so I found some time to remove it.
Sure enough, the polished surface where the ports were were all gunky and gross. I blasted it with carb cleaner, got it clean again, and installed a new exhaust manifold gasket.
As I was torquing down the bolts, one stud snapped in half and the other one seized on the nut. Why does this s*** always break so close to a racing event?! I have the worst luck, I tell you.
I ran to the store, grabbed some Permetex Gasket Former (#2 for obvious reasons), applied it to the ports that used to have studs, applied it to the matching header ports, and re-installed everything. I did lightly tighten the stud with the seized nut back in.
I heard and smelt no exhaust leaks, but then again, it's not like I could tell without soapy water beforehand. It's probably even worse now...either way, I'm upset. Who knows if I'll ever get that broken stud out?
I wanted to see why my P5 leaked a tiny bit at my exhaust manifold flange/head ports connection, so I found some time to remove it.
Sure enough, the polished surface where the ports were were all gunky and gross. I blasted it with carb cleaner, got it clean again, and installed a new exhaust manifold gasket.
As I was torquing down the bolts, one stud snapped in half and the other one seized on the nut. Why does this s*** always break so close to a racing event?! I have the worst luck, I tell you.
I ran to the store, grabbed some Permetex Gasket Former (#2 for obvious reasons), applied it to the ports that used to have studs, applied it to the matching header ports, and re-installed everything. I did lightly tighten the stud with the seized nut back in.
I heard and smelt no exhaust leaks, but then again, it's not like I could tell without soapy water beforehand. It's probably even worse now...either way, I'm upset. Who knows if I'll ever get that broken stud out?
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Trailing Arms
Alright fellas, my fancy performance trailing arms arrived!
Thing is though, I don't know if I'm going to install them before Sunday's race. So far, every time I've taken something apart or installed something else, something broke and went wrong, setting me back a couple days or so. So, screw that. I know they're not hard to install, are *literally* two bolts, and don't require an alignment, but still. Gonna ride on these stock trailing links for just a few more days.
In other news, I sent my car in to the mechanic to investigate my evap system. I couldn't figure out the the situation with the charcoal canister, as disconnecting the tubes didn't reveal anything. Whatever it is, I hope it's quick. He let me know that if it's not something he can finish in time before his shop closes, he'll let me know to come and pick it up.
Until then, I'm just enjoying the last few days of winter break.
Alright fellas, my fancy performance trailing arms arrived!
Thing is though, I don't know if I'm going to install them before Sunday's race. So far, every time I've taken something apart or installed something else, something broke and went wrong, setting me back a couple days or so. So, screw that. I know they're not hard to install, are *literally* two bolts, and don't require an alignment, but still. Gonna ride on these stock trailing links for just a few more days.
In other news, I sent my car in to the mechanic to investigate my evap system. I couldn't figure out the the situation with the charcoal canister, as disconnecting the tubes didn't reveal anything. Whatever it is, I hope it's quick. He let me know that if it's not something he can finish in time before his shop closes, he'll let me know to come and pick it up.
Until then, I'm just enjoying the last few days of winter break.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
The trailing arms reduce back/forwards play of the spindle and hub while also acting as a pivot arm perpendicular to the chassis.
This upgrade I bought has stiffer poly bushings and even less play, so it effectively stiffens up the rear chassis and will prevent even more (or even negate) any play in the hubs. It's going to turn in a little better now :^)
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
What a superb day!
It was the year's first Time Attack, and everything just clicked for me and made sense. I finally understood how to drive this car, and my times showed it. That rear swaybar did its magic, and granted me the ability to turn, for once. The car's much more balanced, and doesn't just plow everywhere. I finished 4th in my class out of 14 (13? I forget) participants, losing out to a CRX, K-swapped Integra, and two other cars I can't remember. I've hit a huge milestone in my racing abilities, and am eager for more.
From here on out, all I have to do is install the trailing arms, rip the VTCS out of the IM that's on the way and install it, plug in the MP3 ECU, and bada-bing bada-boom I've a competent road racer! After that point, I gotta investigate the lateral links, and some gauges for racing.
Sooner or later, whenever some pictures/videos show up of my runs, I'll upload them here for you guys to check out.
It was the year's first Time Attack, and everything just clicked for me and made sense. I finally understood how to drive this car, and my times showed it. That rear swaybar did its magic, and granted me the ability to turn, for once. The car's much more balanced, and doesn't just plow everywhere. I finished 4th in my class out of 14 (13? I forget) participants, losing out to a CRX, K-swapped Integra, and two other cars I can't remember. I've hit a huge milestone in my racing abilities, and am eager for more.
From here on out, all I have to do is install the trailing arms, rip the VTCS out of the IM that's on the way and install it, plug in the MP3 ECU, and bada-bing bada-boom I've a competent road racer! After that point, I gotta investigate the lateral links, and some gauges for racing.
Sooner or later, whenever some pictures/videos show up of my runs, I'll upload them here for you guys to check out.
- :
- Mazda protege5
Sounds like good times man, I kinda feel you on the understeer. It may be because I have no rear brakes atm but those front tires sure like to slide.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
IM Upper-Half and Clips
Hence the title, I got some goods in the mail. Check it out!
The IM upper-half was sent from DPWhitehead. Thanks!
The box of clips on the right is to eventually replace the old ones atop the valve cover. I may paint the valve cover sometime, so we'll see :^)
The trailing arms are still in my room, mostly due to school starting and me already being busy. I need to come up with a game plan for when and how I'll get all this stuff done.
I finally got my car into the shop in hopes of getting my evap system fixed and the studs replaced. That Charcoal canister was absolutely plugged with fuel, but even when left to dry, the evap system still wouldn't do its job. Yesterday, I couldn't even fill it up with a gallon of gas when it was at empty! It's probably the purge valve solenoid or perhaps a clogged line, but I really don't want to screw with that. Similarly, I don't want to do something stupid to my snapped stud or even cause damage to the head. So, to the shop it goes.
I miss that thing whenever it goes in for repairs. Just today, as if life was teasing me, I saw two very pretty Protege5s driving around. I get it! Mine's broke!
Hence the title, I got some goods in the mail. Check it out!
The IM upper-half was sent from DPWhitehead. Thanks!
The box of clips on the right is to eventually replace the old ones atop the valve cover. I may paint the valve cover sometime, so we'll see :^)
The trailing arms are still in my room, mostly due to school starting and me already being busy. I need to come up with a game plan for when and how I'll get all this stuff done.
I finally got my car into the shop in hopes of getting my evap system fixed and the studs replaced. That Charcoal canister was absolutely plugged with fuel, but even when left to dry, the evap system still wouldn't do its job. Yesterday, I couldn't even fill it up with a gallon of gas when it was at empty! It's probably the purge valve solenoid or perhaps a clogged line, but I really don't want to screw with that. Similarly, I don't want to do something stupid to my snapped stud or even cause damage to the head. So, to the shop it goes.
I miss that thing whenever it goes in for repairs. Just today, as if life was teasing me, I saw two very pretty Protege5s driving around. I get it! Mine's broke!
There are three things that can fill up with gas.
The air filter, the charcoal canister and even the catch tank under the hood. (as well as all the lines)
One guy sucked gas all the way into his catch tank after overfilling his gas tank. He said it was gurgling like a bong.
He removed it and dumped out the gas and managed to fix everything. (he may have emptied the other ones too, ?? I forget.)
I don't have that problem.
All the Protg5s around here are rusty turds.
They're not pretty at all.
Keep in mind that once you get your gas issue fixed, don't put more than 25-50 worth of gas in your tank after your pump handle clicks off.
I put a new gas tank on my car and I used to fill the tank to the bottom of the "F" on the gas gauge.
Now I can't get all the way to the top of the scale.
I'm thinking I could probably put a lot more gas in the tank but I'm not gonna risk it.
I still get lots of miles on a tank.
I put a new gas tank on my car and I used to fill the tank to the bottom of the "F" on the gas gauge.
Now I can't get all the way to the top of the scale.
I'm thinking I could probably put a lot more gas in the tank but I'm not gonna risk it.
I still get lots of miles on a tank.
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Riot_Polizei
Comp Engineering Student
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5
Son of a b****, I just destroyed my AWR swaybar brackets.
Every time I work on this car, I just break it some more. All I wanted to do was just re-grease my ******* brackets, but once I got them off, they wouldn't go back on!! ******* hell! Cross-threaded them to hell and back!
These AWR brackets have been nothing but trouble. They never tightened fully, as I always had to re-adjust them, I had no wrench that could fully reach behind the rear lateral links to tighten the top part, and worst of all, I've seen posts on here of people running their swaybars without them with no trouble. I'm really good at wasting my money on s*** I break or don't need!
Maybe I'll have better luck with CR3 relocation brackets. I'm tired of this s*** and want something I can set and forget.
Every time I work on this car, I just break it some more. All I wanted to do was just re-grease my ******* brackets, but once I got them off, they wouldn't go back on!! ******* hell! Cross-threaded them to hell and back!
These AWR brackets have been nothing but trouble. They never tightened fully, as I always had to re-adjust them, I had no wrench that could fully reach behind the rear lateral links to tighten the top part, and worst of all, I've seen posts on here of people running their swaybars without them with no trouble. I'm really good at wasting my money on s*** I break or don't need!
Maybe I'll have better luck with CR3 relocation brackets. I'm tired of this s*** and want something I can set and forget.
Sucks for sure. I've been there, I feel ya.
I did the same thing. Those AWR brackets are super soft and cross threading is easy to do. I broke one going up my driveway at the wrong angle lol. So I just stopped using them. I installed the Energy ones you had, without the AWR brackets, directly to the subframe. It seemed to line up just fine. Ran it that way for years. Just bending the brackets is a pita.
So, you try these bushings that come with pre-bent brackets, but they are a little pricey, and you have to unscrew the zerk fittings because they won't clear the lateral links. I just removed the screw and they cleared it just enough.
https://www.king6fab.com/product/19mm-rear-sway-bar-bushings
Here are a couple of pics of the way I had mine set up.
Note how the bushings have a gap where it doesn't connect fully. This is a 19mm bushing. I just put that sucker on, bolted it up, and it's was nice and tight with no issues for years. Just lube every now and then.
As far as reaching that top bolt, this is what I have always used and works great. Might work for you as well.
Hope this helps. I know how frustrating this stuff can be.
I did the same thing. Those AWR brackets are super soft and cross threading is easy to do. I broke one going up my driveway at the wrong angle lol. So I just stopped using them. I installed the Energy ones you had, without the AWR brackets, directly to the subframe. It seemed to line up just fine. Ran it that way for years. Just bending the brackets is a pita.
So, you try these bushings that come with pre-bent brackets, but they are a little pricey, and you have to unscrew the zerk fittings because they won't clear the lateral links. I just removed the screw and they cleared it just enough.
https://www.king6fab.com/product/19mm-rear-sway-bar-bushings
Here are a couple of pics of the way I had mine set up.
Note how the bushings have a gap where it doesn't connect fully. This is a 19mm bushing. I just put that sucker on, bolted it up, and it's was nice and tight with no issues for years. Just lube every now and then.
As far as reaching that top bolt, this is what I have always used and works great. Might work for you as well.
Hope this helps. I know how frustrating this stuff can be.
