My 2017 GT got rear ended.. wondering to repiar. Opinions?

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mazdajota

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Cx-5 2017 GT w/ tech pack
My less than 2 month old cx-5 2017 GT tech pack just got rear ended on highway.

Car only has about 800km on it, as I don't use it much so it was still like a brand new.. :(

It really sucks but now I gotta face the reality, I searched around for similar cases in a hope that I might be able to get a new replacement but apparently that is never going to happen unless car is totaled.

so it leaves me to body shop repair options


1) Should I bring it to the dealer I bought? I heard that the dealer shops don't really do the job themselves but rather give it to some affiliated body shop/ those who are close to them which could end up in a bad work.

2) Would a private body shop of my choice with some decent google/peer review possibly be a better option than bringing it to the dealer? When I turn the car on it says the blind spot monitoring system is malfunctioning as a result of the crash, I fear that some of other sensors in the car might have been damaged too(which are currently not spotted by car computer system) which might only show up later on the way.

3) Can I claim for diminished value? If yes how can I effectively prove that the company owes me "X value" for the damage done in my future resale? Now my new car is going to show up on carproof/carfax as a vehicle with accident history. Which I believe would definitely work as an edge for the dealer/buyer to lower the price when I sell it.

4) Anything else I should be beware/aware of when dealing with company or ask the body shop?

This is my first experience going through an insurance claim would love to hear some insight from the forum.

Any input would be highly appreciated,

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I am not familiar with how to deal with this but why don't you get a quote from multiple dealerships before asking your insurance to bring it to random shop who might put on non-OEM products. Even if the dealership does not do a good job, keep complaining to them until they get it right. At least, *cross finger* that they will be able fix all the sensor issues.

Wow, such beauty in damaged, it is painful to see it, especially it is the same colour I am getting this Saturday. I really do feel sorry for such low mileage and this happens. I hope this does not haunt you for a long time.

*a moment of silence*
 
Showed your pic to my colleague who is a auto claims adjuster. He said unless the frame got severely damaged, your car is not totaled and can be fixed good as new (if you use OEM parts). Not every body shop reports to CarFax, you'll have to ask. I've heard of people slipping the body shop guy a $50 to remain silent and just do his job :)
 
That really sucks to see...sorry about your situation. I would opt for your option 2 and research body shops in your area. I personally would not bring it back to the dealer unless they use a highly rated body shop themselves. Most dealerships send out repairs like this as they do not have internal body shops.

On the positive side, it looks like the hatch door is undamaged...can't tell from the picture if the quarter panel is damaged or not. Hopefully just the bumper, light assembly and some other associated bits need to be repaired/replaced which is actually pretty minor. I assume the BSM warning is related to damaged sensor in the bumper which shouldn't be a major deal either.

Don't have an answer on the diminished value question.

Good luck with the insurance/repair process.
 
All of your questions are for your insurance.

Dealers don't do bodywork. Insurance can recommend a shop, or you can pick one (at least in the US..unsure about Canada). I've never had any problem with the insurance recommend and they sure make it easier because no doubt they will find problems that are hidden and need to adjust the claim. On a car this new, OEM parts are likely all that's available.
 
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1. Do you want to do it yourself or via insurance? If via insurance they'll recommend a few stores and its up to you to go to one of them. There you won't have much say w.r.t. parts, which 99% of the time is re-purposed from junk yard / new / after market. But on the +ve side: you'll get it back as good as new. Another -ve: yes: it will be in Carfax and no matter how hard you try your trade-in drops significantly.

2. Do it yourself : Go to a well reviewed auto body shop and get it done. +ve side: Carfax: No. Insurance: No. Trade-in values: no impact. -Ve side: high cost ; your end result may not match 100% especially as you've a tri-coat paint (white). If you want it to match 100% - especially the plastic parts - its really expensive. Also during trade-in - its easy to detect there's been work done ; takes 10 seconds.

3. Depends on dealership - but I have seen too many dealerships refused to fix the blind spot monitoring system under warranty. Almost in all cases that goes because of an accident/serious bump : shopping cart hitting the quarter panel, etc. So: if you're into having that sensor fixed under warranty: good luck, its a tough sell I have heard.

4. Dealership if fixes definitely you'll need to pay / insurance needs to pay for the sensor stuff and it'll be in Carfax, much lower trade-in values but on the +ve side dealership forces whichever auto body they use to use only OEM parts. Its going to cost you more but on the long run trading into the same dealer realizes into slightly better value (OEM parts used, etc.)
 
Some dealers do body work - it just depends on the size. Ask if they have a body shop and spray booth.

In the USA you can pick your own body shop and they will negotiate with insurance if there is anything the insurance estimate doesn't cover (hidden damage).

You also have to ask for diminished value - they don't always offer it. Don't forget loaner car too - of similar capabilities. If the accident is not your fault, then you should be made whole, but you may have to work for it. Sometimes your insurance company will help you.

See this article on diminished value for some ideas

https://www.carinsurance.com/Articles/diminished-value-claim.aspx
 
I am all about saving money - assuming you are not at fault and the other party is I would do this
1. Find a local body fix shop - they are cheaper than the insurance shops and might be better.
2. Get a quote from dealer shop - most insurances mandate use of used parts in good condition - say F*ck off if they try this, yours is a new one and there arent too many totalled 17 CX5s in Canada. Say I want every f*cking part new - every thing right down the a small plastic clamp. Dont budge. - you should be getting money for new parts (including panels + new trunk) + labor + they may do some bodywork.
3. Get the body work done at a body work place - fix the light yourself - pretty easy if its similar to 16 CX5 - very easy. Now go to the dealer to get the bumber etc. added.
4. Ask for diminshed value as well which is your new car resale just took a hit - so their insurance pays you the difference - this could be a sizeable chunk and you have to put your feet down for this - no insurance likes paying this.
5. The profit you will make by getting are the panel $$ and trunk you got but you never bought new panels and just used a good repair shop. Diminished value should be good.

This is about Texas USA - I heard Canada is more civil so you might just get Tim Horton's + hug each other and be done.
Also - one advice - Test the interiors as well. I got a great body job done on my car - I see that they were not able to put the interiors back on great. My driver side window squeaks and the window edge pops up in extreme cold. So test interiors like seat dropping latch etc. that you can imagine. Good luck. Also test the trunk. Good luck.
 
Kaps said:
I am all about saving money - assuming you are not at fault and the other party is I would do this
1. Find a local body fix shop - they are cheaper than the insurance shops and might be better.
2. Get a quote from dealer shop - most insurances mandate use of used parts in good condition - say F*ck off if they try this, yours is a new one and there arent too many totalled 17 CX5s in Canada. Say I want every f*cking part new - every thing right down the a small plastic clamp. Dont budge. - you should be getting money for new parts (including panels + new trunk) + labor + they may do some bodywork.
3. Get the body work done at a body work place - fix the light yourself - pretty easy if its similar to 16 CX5 - very easy. Now go to the dealer to get the bumber etc. added.
4. Ask for diminshed value as well which is your new car resale just took a hit - so their insurance pays you the difference - this could be a sizeable chunk and you have to put your feet down for this - no insurance likes paying this.
5. The profit you will make by getting are the panel $$ and trunk you got but you never bought new panels and just used a good repair shop. Diminished value should be good.

This is about Texas USA - I heard Canada is more civil so you might just get Tim Horton's + hug each other and be done.
Also - one advice - Test the interiors as well. I got a great body job done on my car - I see that they were not able to put the interiors back on great. My driver side window squeaks and the window edge pops up in extreme cold. So test interiors like seat dropping latch etc. that you can imagine. Good luck. Also test the trunk. Good luck.
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Bizarre, I've never had insurance insist on using 'used' parts (which is a lot different than non-OEM btw). Always had OEM installed. What insurance company does this - avoid! I wonder if they can even find used or non-OEM parts for a 2017.

I can see it being more of an issue on older vehicles though. If its old enough the bumper might have to come from a junkyard.
 
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craigo said:
Bizarre, I've never had insurance insist on using 'used' parts (which is a lot different than non-OEM btw). Always had OEM installed. What insurance company does this - avoid! I wonder if they can even find used or non-OEM parts for a 2017.

I can see it being more of an issue on older vehicles though. If its old enough the bumper might have to come from a junkyard.
Click to expand...

Everybody does this in USA. Sate Farm does this specially on older cars. Mine was a 2013 Corolla or 2014. They tried to do it - could be down to body panels etc or certain parts but if your 55K mile driven car is damaged - the part is 55K mile old and they will replace it with older if they can. State Farm is one of the top insurers in USA - so its not some shady no credit type ones. I believe State Farm is first to kick you out if you fall in a high risk bracket. Insurance is mostly a scam. Best place to be is a reliable car with under 10K kbb. Buy basic insurance which is 30-50 bucks a month and be worry free.
 
Kaps said:
Everybody does this in USA. Sate Farm does this specially on older cars. Mine was a 2013 Corolla or 2014. They tried to do it - could be down to body panels etc or certain parts but if your 55K mile driven car is damaged - the part is 55K mile old and they will replace it with older if they can. State Farm is one of the top insurers in USA - so its not some shady no credit type ones. I believe State Farm is first to kick you out if you fall in a high risk bracket. Insurance is mostly a scam. Best place to be is a reliable car with under 10K kbb. Buy basic insurance which is 30-50 bucks a month and be worry free.
Click to expand...

Funny, I have State Farm and my family has used them for 40+ years. Never, ever had anything but excellent service.
 
craigo said:
Funny, I have State Farm and my family has used them for 40+ years. Never, ever had anything but excellent service.
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I am not saying they are bad. I got max dollar for my totaled car. Be aware they are required to hunt for good condition parts from salvage yards which is what we are talking about. When my local service king gave me a 9xxx repair quote - he said he needed to see if he can source some used parts and bring the cost down, it never materialized and SF took that 9xxx number and gave me max dollar value for my totaled car - repair cost should be equal to or greater than 75% of book value - thus they got the book value of 13xxx - I had paid 14.5K for the Corolla and used it for 2 years so my depreciation was very minimal and I wanted it totaled.

They are good but if you have 2 or 3 claims in 3 years - doesn't matter if you are with them for 40 or 400 years - you will be politely refused a renewal.
 
Kaps said:
I am not saying they are bad. I got max dollar for my totaled car. Be aware they are required to hunt for good condition parts from salvage yards which is what we are talking about. When my local service king gave me a 9xxx repair quote - he said he needed to see if he can source some used parts and bring the cost down, it never materialized and SF took that 9xxx number and gave me max dollar value for my totaled car - repair cost should be equal to or greater than 75% of book value - thus they got the book value of 13xxx - I had paid 14.5K for the Corolla and used it for 2 years so my depreciation was very minimal and I wanted it totaled.

They are good but if you have 2 or 3 claims in 3 years - doesn't matter if you are with them for 40 or 400 years - you will be politely refused a renewal.
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All the insurance companies will do that. Some are quicker on the trigger. You have to decide if the claim is worth submitting like a broken window for example.

40 plus years with State Farm. No gripes.
 
I went through a similar little ordeal recently in another vehicle, except it was a vandalism/hit & run that damaged my fender and bumper. As long as the car is under 2 years old, the insurance will only quote for brand new OEM parts. Once it's over 2 years old they start to look into refurbished and aftermarket parts to keep the cost down and help reduce the chances of a total loss on value. You can still specify OEM only, but they won't default to it after 2 years old. Since yours is literally brand new, you should be getting all OEM parts. Inquire anyway, you'll likely get this exact response.

I believe in Canada you have to have GAP or depreciation adjustment on your insurance policy to recoup money from lost value on a total loss, or lost resale value on a repair job. Again, inquire to the insurance company.

As for body shops, you can choose to go to ANY body shop of your choosing, as long as they are certified (yes, even if they are NOT on your particular insurance company's list of "preferred shops"). The only difference is that if you run into any issues such as mismatched paint or improper repairs, you have to address the issue with a non-preferred shop, rather than the insurance company addressing it on your behalf with their preferred shops. If you go to a good body shop with lifetime warranty on their workmanship, this should be a non-issue, as any issues you have will be promptly taken care of on their dime up if it is a fault in workmanship. Insurance body shops (I know because I know the shops that my insurance company goes through, and know of the work they do) are not always the best body shops, but the ones that got accreditation to work as a body shop for specific dealers and insurance agencies/brokers. If you know of a good body shop, or have a body guy you are familiar with, I would go to them personally. But that's your call. I don't mind speaking for myself at shops, but some people might not want the hassle if anything goes wrong.

Don't even bother bringing it to a dealer, as it isn't a warranty job (not a fault in the workmanship of the manufacturer), and most dealerships just use a local body shop or preferred body shop anyway. There are no dealerships here in my city that actually have a body shop in-house for instance. If you want to go for your own satisfaction you can, but it'll likely just be a waste of time, where you could focus on getting a good job done by a reputable shop.

Edit: I should also add, good luck to you on getting this work done right and hoping back in the driver's seat! :)
 
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SweetPete said:
Showed your pic to my colleague who is a auto claims adjuster. He said unless the frame got severely damaged, your car is not totaled and can be fixed good as new (if you use OEM parts). Not every body shop reports to CarFax, you'll have to ask. I've heard of people slipping the body shop guy a $50 to remain silent and just do his job :)
Click to expand...

It's not up to the body shop to report to carfax. The insurance company keeps a record of all cars which have a claim filed. carfax then reaches out to government agencies and insurance companies to find out if a car has any accidents. The body shop has not part in this, they just fix cars
 
DubbuD said:
I went through a similar little ordeal recently in another vehicle, except it was a vandalism/hit & run that damaged my fender and bumper. As long as the car is under 2 years old, the insurance will only quote for brand new OEM parts. Once it's over 2 years old they start to look into refurbished and aftermarket parts to keep the cost down and help reduce the chances of a total loss on value. You can still specify OEM only, but they won't default to it after 2 years old. Since yours is literally brand new, you should be getting all OEM parts. Inquire anyway, you'll likely get this exact response.

I believe in Canada you have to have GAP or depreciation adjustment on your insurance policy to recoup money from lost value on a total loss, or lost resale value on a repair job. Again, inquire to the insurance company.

As for body shops, you can choose to go to ANY body shop of your choosing, as long as they are certified (yes, even if they are NOT on your particular insurance company's list of "preferred shops"). The only difference is that if you run into any issues such as mismatched paint or improper repairs, you have to address the issue with a non-preferred shop, rather than the insurance company addressing it on your behalf with their preferred shops. If you go to a good body shop with lifetime warranty on their workmanship, this should be a non-issue, as any issues you have will be promptly taken care of on their dime up if it is a fault in workmanship. Insurance body shops (I know because I know the shops that my insurance company goes through, and know of the work they do) are not always the best body shops, but the ones that got accreditation to work as a body shop for specific dealers and insurance agencies/brokers. If you know of a good body shop, or have a body guy you are familiar with, I would go to them personally. But that's your call. I don't mind speaking for myself at shops, but some people might not want the hassle if anything goes wrong.

Don't even bother bringing it to a dealer, as it isn't a warranty job (not a fault in the workmanship of the manufacturer), and most dealerships just use a local body shop or preferred body shop anyway. There are no dealerships here in my city that actually have a body shop in-house for instance. If you want to go for your own satisfaction you can, but it'll likely just be a waste of time, where you could focus on getting a good job done by a reputable shop.

Edit: I should also add, good luck to you on getting this work done right and hoping back in the driver's seat! :)
Click to expand...

Another possible reason to go with the preferred shop is when they find more damage than originally estimated (often the case), approval to adjust the claim will come faster, thus getting you back in your car sooner.
 
My wife was backing out of a dirt road at night in the rain with a fogged up backup camera and hit a tree in the same spot as your picture. I had to put the spare on to get the car drivable as the wheel was rubbing the front wheel well. $2700.00 of damage.
 
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