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Thread: 02 PR5 Crank, No Start

  1. #46
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    I’m now getting 12V at the pump when the F/P terminal is grounded. I also get 12V at the fuse box with the F/P terminal grounded.

  2. #47
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    That most likely means the ECU has shutdown the fuel pump.

    Check to see if you've got spark.
    Remove a plug, plug it back into the sparkplug wire, lay it on the valve cover and see if it's sparking when you crank the engine.

    There's a lot of things that can force the ECU to shutdown the engine.... You may even have a fried ECU from the fire ??
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #48
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    I pulled the sparkplug from cylinder 3 and cranked it and it wasn’t getting spark at all.

  4. #49
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    That's not good...

    Your ECU has shut down your car.
    It only takes one bad wire to kill the car... You could have many ??

    A bad sensor, like the crank sensor or it's wire can shut down the car.

    I'm kinda stumped as to what to do next ??

    All I can think of is to go through your harnesses one wire at a time and check for continuity (broken wire,.. same as your fuel pump) from one end of the wire to the other.. Some go to the ECU, some go to the fusebox, some go into another harness and change color code as they do.

    I do know that if your crank sensor is bad, you get a single spark every time you try to start your car.
    Check carefully for that single spark turning your key to off every time.

    What the previous owner did and the resulting fire could have done huge amounts of damage including frying the ECU.

    Keep in mind what pb4ugotobed said and don't wait too long before you cut your losses... Don't spend tons of money and time,...

    At least test every component before you replace it. The only thing you can't really test is the ECU... It's always the last thing you replace when you do all the troubleshooting and nothing works.
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  5. #50
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I've been staring at the wiring diagrams and found a few thing to check...





    Check the INJ 30A, it should be +12 V all the time.
    Check the ENGINE fuse 10A #14,.. It should turn to +12V with ignition on.
    Check your main relay to see if it's clicking.

    The main relay appears to turn on everything that runs the engine.

    The INJ fuse is a square one,... Pull it out and check the ohms across it... It should be zero (or very small).

    Then probe both of the terminals inside the fuse box where you pulled the fuse from.
    Check for +12 V on the terminals, one of them should be +12 V. Ground the negative of your meter to bare metal like when you tested the other fuses.
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  6. #51
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    Looks like I have a bunch of tedious testing ahead of me :/. Worst case scenario would be that I change out the wiring harness and computer?

  7. #52
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    ...Worst case scenario would be that I change out the wiring harness and computer?
    No,... Worst case scenario is that you change out all your harnesses and computer and your car still won't start.

    But yea,.. Checking/replacing your harnesses and ECU seems like a good place to start.

    Start with those two fuses and main relay. They're quite easy to inspect.
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  8. #53
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I just reread the list in my first post...

    Make sure power is getting to your ECU and that it's grounded as well.
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  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    No,... Worst case scenario is that you change out all your harnesses and computer and your car still won't start.

    But yea,.. Checking/replacing your harnesses and ECU seems like a good place to start.

    Start with those two fuses and main relay. They're quite easy to inspect.
    I would start by downloading the full service manual and wiring diagram for your car so you can print it all out and have it available there in the car with you (and save you waiting on pcb to upload the pictures)

    then start testing continuity of wires. you probably have one (or several) wires that are broken internally like the fuel pump wire was. If it were me, since you KNOW the FP wire was broken, and know the color i would start to split-half method using that wire. find where that wire broke. Chances are if there was a rodent, fire, etc. any other broken wires will be in the same location. Could have been a spot the harness got smashed when they replaced the motor. could be a rat/squirrel/etc. got in there (they love to eat wires). Could be that something dead shorted and melted, which will generally melt any other wires in a close area to that failure point as well and basically short them all together in a mess of melted wire insulation with random strains of brown copper inside it.

    If you can find this spot, you can repair the harness if you're decent at soldering (which i agree 1000000% w/pcb most people suck at it). repairing it would be significantly easier than replacing the engine harness.


    having said that, i would still say don't get too deep into this thing and start dumping a bunch of money into it. not to try and judge you, but autoshop class in high school is nothing like diagnosing a car in the real world. by reading some of your posts earlier it doesn't appear to me that you've really got a good grasp of the auto electrical diag experience necessary to bring this car back to life. not to say with enough time you won't get it going (i hope you do) but i would really try to avoid dumping much (if any) money into this thing unless you have 100% condemned a part. That's the problem with even most "professional" mechanics now days. there really is very little "diag" in their mental toolbox. everywhere you go you have parts changers and that's about it. sure it takes less skill, knowledge, and expertise to just start replacing parts (eventually you will fix it this way, sure) but that's a VERY expensive way to fix a car. I'm the type to condemn the actual failure point of a part and replace that part. so you would first need to 100% confirm the harness in your car is good. If not, (which i would suspect) then find where it failed. if it is repairable (and usually is) then repair it. if not, then replace it. And even after that point, there's still a pretty good chance that the harness failure could very easily have smoked the ECU and/or other related sensors and the car still won't start. Reverse voltage or random catastrophic shorts ( like a smashed harness or fire) can do an awful lot of damage to sensitive engine components and sensors. you could very easily find yourself replacing one part after the other and believe me, it adds up. We had a brand new truck that got hit by lightning once... all said and done it was almost $20k worth of computers and harnesses before it was fixed. but once one part was condemned and replaced, it just led further down the troubleshooting tree to the next one... one giant snowball effect.

  10. #55
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Do you know if the fire was before or after the JDM engine was installed ??
    It would be nice to be able to assume that the engine and it's connected sensors are working properly.

    Another problem with replacing your harness is that the replacement is probably going to be used and will be 15 years old.
    The wires inside the harness get old and crispy like strands of spaghetti before it's cooked. Just the process of removing and reinstalling the harness can break some wires.

    Try at least not to spend money on it and invest your time instead... Make sure the part is bad before replacing it.

    Remember, you can get a working P5 for $1,000-$2,000 and sell what you have for at least a few hundred.

    For a total investment of about $750 you could be driving a P5 next week...
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  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    Do you know if the fire was before or after the JDM engine was installed ??
    It would be nice to be able to assume that the engine and it's connected sensors are working properly.

    Another problem with replacing your harness is that the replacement is probably going to be used and will be 15 years old.
    The wires inside the harness get old and crispy like strands of spaghetti before it's cooked. Just the process of removing and reinstalling the harness can break some wires.

    Try at least not to spend money on it and invest your time instead... Make sure the part is bad before replacing it.

    Remember, you can get a working P5 for $1,000-$2,000 and sell what you have for at least a few hundred.

    For a total investment of about $750 you could be driving a P5 next week...
    Agreed. I only paid $2k for mine about 2 years ago. zero rust, new tires (which i replaced again a couple months ago) cold AC, etc. only thing wrong with it was shifter bushings slap wore out which cost me less than $20 and a couple hours to fix (because of course i had to replace the 2 "non-serviceable" ones so had to drill out that pin, and do that whole happy dance. Other than that, 100k miles later still as solid as it was when i bought it And with every single knob, button, switch, etc working as it is supposed to, doesn't leak or burn a drop of oil, it's still worth the $2k i paid for it when i got it.

    If you can FIX what is wrong with it and only invest time, then you might have something going. However if you have to actually start replacing stuff and dumping money into it just to get it to run (and who knows how well it will run once it finally does) i'd either dump it off to someone on craigslist as a mechanic special or part it out. you'd probably make more $ parting it out than it is worth as a whole car, and use that money to buy a car that runs. I'm guessing you're relatively young so you may be better off with a "project" car that runs and needs little things to run right than taking something that doesn't run, has had a lot of hands working on it previously, and who really knows what has been done to it. it takes a fair amount of experience to be able to sort out other people's messes and make it right. and I don't recall who you bought it from, but especially with "non-running projects" you can pretty much count anything they give you for "mechanical history" on the vehicle as complete BS. Most of the time they know they have a basket case on their hands and are either as vague as humanly possible, or will flat out lie just to get rid of their headache.
    Last edited by pb4ugotobed; 01-15-2018 at 12:17 PM.

  12. #57
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    As much as I liked this car I am deciding to atleast post it and try to cut my losses. I haven’t dumped much money into it anyways besides a replacement mirror from the junkyard and a fuse box. In the mean time of selling it, I will still tinker with it, but not going to let it be a money pit. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it a lot!

  13. #58
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    The “fire” happened after the jdm engine was installed. Whoever put in the new engine didn’t attach all the grounds and just did a horrible job.

  14. #59
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    You should still get a P5...

    They're cheap and you'll love it. Get a 5speed.
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  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post
    You should still get a P5...

    They're cheap and you'll love it. Get a 5speed.
    Update! So itís been awhile since I last messed with the car. Iíve had it posted for sale just to see what people would offer and such. I got around to taking out the computer and it doesnít look like anything is burnt or corroded, but I did notice one thing. When I pull out the PCM and examined it I noticed some etching that read ďMP3 Flash #6Ē. Would this be a culprit of the problem? And does anybody have a wire diagram of the plug that goes into the PCM so I can test around? Thanks for the support!

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