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Thread: 02 PR5 Crank, No Start

  1. #31
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    I did a continuity test on a spare fuse box I had to find which prongs led to the connectors of the fuel pump relay. After doing that I ruled out a few prongs that led to the fuel pump relay on the underside of the fuse box. I couldn’t quite find the correct wire and and had hard time finding which one led back to the fuel pump since most of them were reading 12V. I’m gonna try again tomorrow and use a long wire to test continuity between the connectors to the fuse box and the actual fuse pump power connector.

  2. #32
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    So the fuel pump connecter should read 12V when I have the jumper wire grounded and connected to the F/P terminal? And also how would I go about splicing a new wire? Running a whole new wire between the fuse box and the fuel pump?
    Yes and yes.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #33
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Find the R/W wire in the FB-03 connector.
    It's one of the big connectors that plugs into the fusebox.

    With everything connected and plugged in, test for +12 V between the R/W wire and ground. Probe into the R/W terminal beside the wire to where the metal is to get your reading don't unplug the connector.
    I don't know of that's even possible but I assume it is,... You might have to disconnect your fusebox a bit and reach underneath to probe it??

    Do this test with the ignition on and the F/P terminal grounded.
    Hopefully you've got +12 V on that wire. If you do, cut the wire about 2-3 inches back from the connector, strip the last half inch of the insulation and splice in a wire long enough to reach the fuel pump connector and do the same splice there two inches back.


    Oh,.. I forgot..

    You may have a bad ground wire instead, the black one in the connector. Test that first.

    With the ignition off, test for continuity (resistance turn you multimeter to ohms) between the black wire in the connector and ground.. bare metal somewhere.
    There should be 0 ohms, or very close to it.
    Then, just to be thorough, check for +12 V between the R/W wire and ground (bare metal) with the ignition on and the F/P terminal grounded.

    If you have +12 V between the R/W wire and ground but NOT between the R/W wire and black wire then you have a bad ground wire.

    If that's the case, splice a piece of wire from the black wire to ground somewhere... Under a bolt or something.
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  4. #34
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The first picture is kinda blurry..
    It's in your P5 Wire download.

    Oh.. It's best to solder all the splices you make and use shrink tubes to cover them.
    Those crimp on connectors don't work very well and can corrode and get dirty over time and stop conducting.
    Your dad can do it for you if your not good at it. Most people suck at soldering.




    Last edited by pcb; 01-11-2018 at 07:41 AM.
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  5. #35
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    I did the continuity test like you said for the black wire and had it set to ohms and I got a reading of 0.9-1.0. Idk how if that is close to zero or not. I also tested for 12V between the R/W wire and ground with the F/P terminal grounded and still very little volts.

  6. #36
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    And just to be sure connector FB-03 would be the big white one correct? There are 3 red and white wires in there but I’m assuming it’s the wire that is dominantly red and some white. The other 2 wires are mostly white and some red.

  7. #37
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    I’m still kinda iffy on the power connector to the fuel pump, when Unplugged and turning it to look into the terminals the red is on the bottom left and the black is on the bottom right.

  8. #38
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    Iím still kinda iffy on the power connector to the fuel pump, when Unplugged and turning it to look into the terminals the red is on the bottom left and the black is on the bottom right.
    I think I got my connectors mixed up...
    The picture above is the "receiver"...

    Either way,... If the black wire with an orange stripe is above the black wire, and the gray wire is above the red wire with a white stripe then the wires are correct.

    They are mirror images of each other... Sometimes the wires change color scheme through the connector to further confuse things.

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  9. #39
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by PR5Zach View Post
    And just to be sure connector FB-03 would be the big white one correct? There are 3 red and white wires in there but Iím assuming itís the wire that is dominantly red and some white. The other 2 wires are mostly white and some red.







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  10. #40
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    Ill get around to splicing in a new wire sometime today. Just to be safe, should I also splice in a new ground and bolt it under the fuel pump panel? Thanks for all your help hopefully this will solve my problem. Would this also fix the temp gauge jumping to HOT?

  11. #41
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    A new ground would be a good idea.
    Your temp gauge jumping to hot is most likely a separate issue. We'll get to that next... It may possibly prevent the car from starting... The ECU needs to know the proper temperature.
    It may be a bad gauge or bad sensor or probably another bad wire.

    If you can get the car started, it will then register codes to help you diagnose your car.
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  12. #42
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    Got around to splicing in the new R/W wire between the fuse box and fuel pump(soldered, crimped, and heatshrinked). Also soldered in a new ground coming from the black wire out of the connector to the fuel pump. Unfortunately I’m still getting the same issue. Turned the ignition to on and still heard nothing. Idk why but I tried to start it to maybe get a sputter but still nothing. What now?

  13. #43
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    The issue being I’m still not getting 12V to the fuel pump. Sorry haha should’ve been more clear the first time

  14. #44
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Do you get 12 V at the pump with F/P terminal grounded ?

    Do you get 12 V on the W/R wire coming out of the fusebox with or without the F/P terminal grounded ?


    If you get +12 V with the F/P terminal grounded but NOT when you're trying to start your car, then your ECU isn't allowing the fuel pump to run OR the wire from the ECU to the fuel pump relay is bad.

    If you still NEVER get +12 V to your pump then you either spliced into the wrong wire or the W/R wire coming out of the fusebox is dead, probably meaning power isn't getting to and through the fuel pump relay.
    Last edited by pcb; 01-13-2018 at 08:43 AM.
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  15. #45
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    I made sure to splice into the R/W wire in the FB-03 connector that corresponded to the one on the fuel pump connector. I haven’t tried testing it yet with the F/P terminal grounded so I’ll do that.

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